How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2013 Honda CR-V
Step-by-step instructions with tools, safety tips, belt routing, and inspection checks for 2012, 2013, 2014
How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2013 Honda CR-V
Step-by-step instructions with tools, safety tips, belt routing, and inspection checks for 2012, 2013, 2014
🔧 CR-V - Serpentine Belt Replacement
The serpentine belt drives the alternator, A/C compressor, and other engine accessories. On your CR-V, the belt is serviced by rotating the automatic tensioner and slipping the old belt off, then routing the new one exactly the same way.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1 hour
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Work only with the engine off and cool.
- Keep hands, hair, and clothing away from the belt path.
- The tensioner is spring-loaded. Hold it firmly while releasing tension.
- Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
- Take a photo of the belt routing first.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 19mm socket
- Breaker bar
- Flashlight
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Wheel chocks
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Turn the engine off and let it cool down.
- Open the hood and locate the belt routing sticker if it is still present.
- If the sticker is missing, take a clear photo of the current belt routing before removal.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Locate the belt and tensioner
- Open the hood and find the serpentine belt on the front of the engine.
- Use a flashlight to locate the automatic belt tensioner. The tensioner is the spring-loaded arm that keeps the belt tight.
- Look at the belt routing before touching anything.
Step 2: Release belt tension
- Use a 19mm socket with a 3/8-inch drive ratchet or breaker bar on the tensioner.
- Rotate the tensioner in the direction that unloads the belt.
- Move slowly and keep control.
- Once the belt loosens, slide it off one easy-to-reach pulley first.
Step 3: Remove the old belt
- Carefully release the tensioner and remove the belt from the remaining pulleys.
- Compare the old belt to the new one to make sure the length matches.
- Inspect all pulleys by hand for roughness, wobble, or seized bearings.
Step 4: Install the new belt
- Route the new belt around all pulleys except one easy-to-access pulley, following the original path.
- Make sure the ribbed side of the belt sits in the grooved pulleys.
- Use the 19mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet again to rotate the tensioner.
- Slip the belt onto the final pulley while the tensioner is held back.
- Slowly release the tensioner.
Step 5: Verify belt seating
- Check every pulley to make sure the belt is centered and fully seated in each groove.
- Look along the belt path from the side for any twist or misalignment.
- Make sure the belt is not riding on the edge of any pulley.
Step 6: Start and recheck
- Start the engine and watch the belt for a few seconds.
- Listen for squealing, chirping, or slapping noises.
- If the belt tracks smoothly, shut the engine off and do one final visual inspection.
✅ After Repair
- Recheck belt alignment after a short test drive.
- Watch for charging warnings, power steering issues, or A/C problems.
- If the old belt was cracked or glazed, consider inspecting the tensioner and idler pulleys more closely.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $140-$260 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $35-$70 (parts only)
You Save: $105-$190 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1 hour.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















