How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2013 Honda Accord (2.4L)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, belt routing, safety tips, and wheel lug torque specs for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2013 Honda Accord (2.4L)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, belt routing, safety tips, and wheel lug torque specs for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
🔧 Accord - Serpentine Belt Replacement
Your Accord’s serpentine (drive) belt runs the alternator and A/C compressor. Replacing it restores proper charging and prevents a sudden breakdown if the belt is cracked, noisy, or slipping.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Work on a cool engine—hot pulleys and the radiator area can burn you.
- 🛑 Keep fingers, hair, and clothing away from pulleys at all times.
- 🛑 Support the car with jack stands before going under the fender area.
- 🛑 Do not start the engine until all tools are removed and the belt is fully seated.
- 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required for this job, but keep the key away from the car so no one cranks it.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (pair, rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 19mm socket
- Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
- 14mm combination wrench
- 10mm socket
- Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
- Trim clip removal tool
- Work light
- Mechanic gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Serpentine (drive) belt - Qty: 1
- Fender liner clips - Qty: 2-6
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Loosen the passenger-front wheel lug nuts about 1/2 turn before lifting the car.
- Look for the belt routing diagram under the hood (often on the radiator support). If it’s missing, take a clear photo of the current routing before removal.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and access the belt area
- Use a floor jack to lift the front passenger side at the factory jack point.
- Place the car securely on jack stands before removing the wheel.
- Remove the passenger-front wheel using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
- Reinstalling later: wheel lug nuts Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield / fender liner access
- Remove the plastic clips with a trim clip removal tool.
- Remove any small bolts using a 10mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive.
- Pull the liner/splash shield back just enough to clearly see the belt and tensioner.
- Tip: Put clips/bolts in a cup.
Step 3: Release belt tension
- Locate the automatic belt tensioner near the belt path.
- Fit a 14mm combination wrench on the tensioner’s hex (the “hex” is the 6-sided wrench contact).
- Rotate the tensioner to relieve tension, then slide the belt off the easiest pulley (usually the alternator pulley).
- Tip: Move slowly—spring tension is strong.
Step 4: Remove the old belt and compare
- Pull the belt out through the wheel well opening by hand.
- Lay the old and new belt side-by-side and confirm the length and rib count match.
Step 5: Route the new belt
- Route the new belt around the pulleys following the under-hood diagram.
- If your routing sticker is missing, use this typical path for your Accord’s 2.4L: crank pulley → A/C compressor → idler pulley → alternator → tensioner → back to crank.
- Make sure the belt ribs sit perfectly in the grooved pulleys (no ribs hanging off an edge).
Step 6: Reapply tension and verify seating
- Use the 14mm combination wrench to rotate the tensioner again.
- Slip the belt onto the last pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
- Visually check every pulley: the belt should be centered and fully seated.
- Tip: Misalignment will shred a new belt fast.
Step 7: Reassemble
- Reinstall the splash shield/fender liner using the 10mm socket, ratchet 3/8-inch drive, and trim clip removal tool for the clips.
- Reinstall the wheel using the 19mm socket and breaker bar.
- Lower the car using the floor jack.
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and watch the belt for 30–60 seconds. It should run smoothly with no wobble.
- Turn A/C on and verify no squeal.
- If you hear chirping/squealing, shut off the engine and recheck belt seating on every pulley.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $150-$280 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $25-$60 (parts only)
You Save: $125-$220 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.











