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2017 Ford Escape
2013 - 2020 Ford Escape
Inline 4 2.0L

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  • Ford Escape
  • 2017
  • How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2013-2020 Ford Escape (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
How to replace Serpentine Belt Ford Escape 2.0L 2013-2019

How to replace Serpentine Belt Ford Escape 2.0L 2013-2019

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3/8
3/8
Ratchet
Serpentine Belt
Serpentine Belt
Tool
15mm
15mm
Socket
or (9/16")
7mm
7mm
Socket
or (1/4")
8mm
8mm
Socket
or (5/16")
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How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2013-2020 Ford Escape (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, belt routing tips, safety checks, and cost savings for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2013-2020 Ford Escape (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, belt routing tips, safety checks, and cost savings for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

Orion
Orion

🔧 Escape - Serpentine Belt Replacement

The serpentine belt drives important accessories on your Escape, including the alternator, A/C compressor, and water pump drive system. Replacing it involves releasing spring tension from the belt tensioner, removing the old belt, and routing the new belt correctly around the pulleys.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hour


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before working near the belt and pulleys.
  • ⚠️ Keep fingers, clothing, and tools away from the belt path when releasing the tensioner.
  • ⚠️ Do not start the engine with any tools still in the engine bay.
  • ⚠️ Support your Escape securely with jack stands if lifting the front. Never rely on a jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not usually required for this belt replacement, but keep the ignition OFF and the key away from the vehicle.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 3/8-inch drive serpentine belt tool (specialty)
  • 15mm socket
  • 7mm socket
  • 8mm socket
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Work gloves
  • Safety glasses
  • Flashlight

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Serpentine drive belt - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park your Escape on level ground and set the parking brake.
  • 🧊 Make sure the engine is fully cool before reaching near the belt area.
  • 🚗 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels before lifting the front.
  • 🔦 Take a clear photo of the current belt routing before removal. This helps if the under-hood routing label is missing.
  • 📘 A serpentine belt tool is a long, thin wrench designed to reach the belt tensioner in tight spaces.
  • 📘 The belt tensioner is a spring-loaded pulley arm that keeps the belt tight while the engine runs.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Secure the Front of the Vehicle

  • Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front of your Escape at the front subframe jacking point.
  • Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the approved front support points.
  • Gently lower the vehicle onto the jack stands and lightly shake the vehicle to confirm it is stable.
  • Put on safety glasses and work gloves.

Step 2: Remove the Right Front Lower Splash Shield Access

  • Use the 7mm socket and 8mm socket to remove the small fasteners from the right front lower splash shield or access panel.
  • Use the trim clip removal tool to remove any plastic push clips without breaking them.
  • Use the flat-blade screwdriver only if needed to gently help release stuck clips.
  • Move the shield aside so you can see the belt, crankshaft pulley, and tensioner area.
  • Take your time with plastic clips.

Step 3: Locate the Belt Tensioner

  • Use the flashlight to look at the belt path from the right lower side of the engine bay.
  • Find the spring-loaded belt tensioner pulley. It is the pulley mounted on an arm, not a fixed accessory pulley.
  • Look for the square 3/8-inch drive opening or a bolt head on the tensioner arm.

Step 4: Release Belt Tension

  • Install the 3/8-inch drive serpentine belt tool or 3/8-inch drive ratchet into the tensioner drive opening.
  • If your tensioner uses a bolt head instead, use the 15mm socket on the tensioner pulley bolt.
  • Slowly rotate the tensioner away from the belt to remove belt tension.
  • Keep one hand firmly on the tool. The tensioner is spring-loaded and can snap back if released suddenly.
  • Move slowly and keep fingers clear.

Step 5: Remove the Old Belt

  • While holding the tensioner released with the serpentine belt tool, slide the belt off the easiest smooth pulley first.
  • Slowly let the tensioner return to its resting position.
  • Remove the belt from the remaining pulleys by hand.
  • Compare the old belt to the new serpentine drive belt. The new belt should match in rib count and overall length.

Step 6: Inspect the Pulleys

  • Use the flashlight to inspect each pulley for cracks, heavy rust, wobble, or missing grooves.
  • Spin accessible smooth pulleys by hand. They should turn smoothly without grinding noise.
  • If a pulley is loose, noisy, or rough, do not install the new belt until that issue is repaired.

Step 7: Route the New Belt

  • Route the new serpentine drive belt around the pulleys using the belt routing label or the photo you took earlier.
  • Make sure the ribbed side of the belt sits in the grooved pulleys.
  • Make sure the smooth side of the belt runs against smooth pulleys.
  • Leave one easy-to-reach smooth pulley for last.
  • Every belt rib must sit fully in its groove.

Step 8: Install the Belt Over the Final Pulley

  • Use the 3/8-inch drive serpentine belt tool or 3/8-inch drive ratchet to rotate the tensioner again.
  • Slide the belt over the final pulley by hand while holding the tensioner released.
  • Slowly release the tensioner until it applies tension to the new belt.
  • Remove the serpentine belt tool or ratchet.

Step 9: Verify Belt Alignment

  • Use the flashlight to check every pulley.
  • Confirm the belt is centered on each pulley.
  • Confirm no belt ribs are hanging off the edge of any grooved pulley.
  • If the belt is not seated correctly, use the serpentine belt tool to release tension and reposition it before starting the engine.

Step 10: Reinstall the Splash Shield

  • Reposition the lower splash shield or access panel.
  • Use the trim clip removal tool by hand to reinstall plastic push clips.
  • Use the 7mm socket and 8mm socket to reinstall the shield fasteners until snug.
  • Do not overtighten small splash shield screws; they thread into plastic and can strip easily.

Step 11: Lower the Vehicle

  • Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
  • Lower the vehicle fully to the ground with the floor jack.
  • Remove the wheel chocks.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Before starting, check the engine bay and underbody for forgotten tools.
  • ✅ Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds.
  • ✅ Watch the belt from a safe distance. It should run smoothly with no wobble, squeal, or edge walking.
  • ✅ Turn the A/C on and listen for abnormal chirping or squealing.
  • ✅ Shut the engine off and recheck belt seating once more with the flashlight.
  • ✅ If the belt squeals, jumps, or walks off-center, shut the engine off immediately and recheck routing and pulley condition.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $150-$280 parts + labor

DIY Cost: $25-$65 parts only

You Save: $125-$215 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hour.


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