How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2013-2020 Ford Escape (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, belt routing tips, safety checks, and cost savings for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2013-2020 Ford Escape (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, belt routing tips, safety checks, and cost savings for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 Escape - Serpentine Belt Replacement
The serpentine belt drives important accessories on your Escape, including the alternator, A/C compressor, and water pump drive system. Replacing it involves releasing spring tension from the belt tensioner, removing the old belt, and routing the new belt correctly around the pulleys.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hour
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before working near the belt and pulleys.
- ⚠️ Keep fingers, clothing, and tools away from the belt path when releasing the tensioner.
- ⚠️ Do not start the engine with any tools still in the engine bay.
- ⚠️ Support your Escape securely with jack stands if lifting the front. Never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not usually required for this belt replacement, but keep the ignition OFF and the key away from the vehicle.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive serpentine belt tool (specialty)
- 15mm socket
- 7mm socket
- 8mm socket
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Trim clip removal tool
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Work gloves
- Safety glasses
- Flashlight
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Serpentine drive belt - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park your Escape on level ground and set the parking brake.
- 🧊 Make sure the engine is fully cool before reaching near the belt area.
- 🚗 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels before lifting the front.
- 🔦 Take a clear photo of the current belt routing before removal. This helps if the under-hood routing label is missing.
- 📘 A serpentine belt tool is a long, thin wrench designed to reach the belt tensioner in tight spaces.
- 📘 The belt tensioner is a spring-loaded pulley arm that keeps the belt tight while the engine runs.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise and Secure the Front of the Vehicle
- Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front of your Escape at the front subframe jacking point.
- Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the approved front support points.
- Gently lower the vehicle onto the jack stands and lightly shake the vehicle to confirm it is stable.
- Put on safety glasses and work gloves.
Step 2: Remove the Right Front Lower Splash Shield Access
- Use the 7mm socket and 8mm socket to remove the small fasteners from the right front lower splash shield or access panel.
- Use the trim clip removal tool to remove any plastic push clips without breaking them.
- Use the flat-blade screwdriver only if needed to gently help release stuck clips.
- Move the shield aside so you can see the belt, crankshaft pulley, and tensioner area.
- Take your time with plastic clips.
Step 3: Locate the Belt Tensioner
- Use the flashlight to look at the belt path from the right lower side of the engine bay.
- Find the spring-loaded belt tensioner pulley. It is the pulley mounted on an arm, not a fixed accessory pulley.
- Look for the square 3/8-inch drive opening or a bolt head on the tensioner arm.
Step 4: Release Belt Tension
- Install the 3/8-inch drive serpentine belt tool or 3/8-inch drive ratchet into the tensioner drive opening.
- If your tensioner uses a bolt head instead, use the 15mm socket on the tensioner pulley bolt.
- Slowly rotate the tensioner away from the belt to remove belt tension.
- Keep one hand firmly on the tool. The tensioner is spring-loaded and can snap back if released suddenly.
- Move slowly and keep fingers clear.
Step 5: Remove the Old Belt
- While holding the tensioner released with the serpentine belt tool, slide the belt off the easiest smooth pulley first.
- Slowly let the tensioner return to its resting position.
- Remove the belt from the remaining pulleys by hand.
- Compare the old belt to the new serpentine drive belt. The new belt should match in rib count and overall length.
Step 6: Inspect the Pulleys
- Use the flashlight to inspect each pulley for cracks, heavy rust, wobble, or missing grooves.
- Spin accessible smooth pulleys by hand. They should turn smoothly without grinding noise.
- If a pulley is loose, noisy, or rough, do not install the new belt until that issue is repaired.
Step 7: Route the New Belt
- Route the new serpentine drive belt around the pulleys using the belt routing label or the photo you took earlier.
- Make sure the ribbed side of the belt sits in the grooved pulleys.
- Make sure the smooth side of the belt runs against smooth pulleys.
- Leave one easy-to-reach smooth pulley for last.
- Every belt rib must sit fully in its groove.
Step 8: Install the Belt Over the Final Pulley
- Use the 3/8-inch drive serpentine belt tool or 3/8-inch drive ratchet to rotate the tensioner again.
- Slide the belt over the final pulley by hand while holding the tensioner released.
- Slowly release the tensioner until it applies tension to the new belt.
- Remove the serpentine belt tool or ratchet.
Step 9: Verify Belt Alignment
- Use the flashlight to check every pulley.
- Confirm the belt is centered on each pulley.
- Confirm no belt ribs are hanging off the edge of any grooved pulley.
- If the belt is not seated correctly, use the serpentine belt tool to release tension and reposition it before starting the engine.
Step 10: Reinstall the Splash Shield
- Reposition the lower splash shield or access panel.
- Use the trim clip removal tool by hand to reinstall plastic push clips.
- Use the 7mm socket and 8mm socket to reinstall the shield fasteners until snug.
- Do not overtighten small splash shield screws; they thread into plastic and can strip easily.
Step 11: Lower the Vehicle
- Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
- Lower the vehicle fully to the ground with the floor jack.
- Remove the wheel chocks.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Before starting, check the engine bay and underbody for forgotten tools.
- ✅ Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds.
- ✅ Watch the belt from a safe distance. It should run smoothly with no wobble, squeal, or edge walking.
- ✅ Turn the A/C on and listen for abnormal chirping or squealing.
- ✅ Shut the engine off and recheck belt seating once more with the flashlight.
- ✅ If the belt squeals, jumps, or walks off-center, shut the engine off immediately and recheck routing and pulley condition.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $150-$280 parts + labor
DIY Cost: $25-$65 parts only
You Save: $125-$215 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hour.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.









