How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2013-2020 Ford Escape (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with belt routing tips, tools, parts, and safety precautions for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2013-2020 Ford Escape (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with belt routing tips, tools, parts, and safety precautions for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 Escape - Serpentine Belt Replacement
The serpentine belt drives important accessories like the alternator, A/C compressor, and water pump system components. On your Escape, the belt is routed around several pulleys and held tight by a spring-loaded belt tensioner.
This job requires working in a tight space at the passenger side of the engine. Take your time and compare the new belt to the old one before installing it.
Difficulty Level: Beginner-Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before working near the belt and pulleys.
- ⚠️ Keep fingers clear of the belt tensioner. It is spring-loaded and can snap back quickly.
- ⚠️ Do not work with the engine running.
- ⚠️ Disconnecting the negative battery cable is recommended to prevent accidental starting.
- ⚠️ If lifting the vehicle, support it with jack stands. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Serpentine belt tool with 3/8-inch drive adapter (specialty)
- 3/8-inch drive breaker bar
- 15mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 8mm socket
- Ratchet with 3/8-inch drive
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Trim clip removal tool
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Flashlight
- Mechanic gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Serpentine drive belt - Qty: 1
- Wheel well liner push clips - Qty: As needed
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Escape on level ground.
- Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool fully.
- Take a clear photo of the belt routing before removal. This helps during installation.
- A serpentine belt tool is a long, thin handle used to move the belt tensioner in tight spaces.
- The belt tensioner is the spring-loaded arm that keeps the belt tight.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Disconnect the Battery
- Use a 10mm socket and ratchet to loosen the negative battery cable clamp.
- Lift the negative cable off the battery post and move it aside so it cannot touch the post.
- Black cable is negative.
Step 2: Raise the Passenger Front Side
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum at the proper front jacking point.
- Set the vehicle securely on jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
- Lightly shake the vehicle by hand to confirm it is stable before going near the wheel well.
Step 3: Remove the Passenger Front Wheel Well Access
- Use a trim clip removal tool or flat-blade screwdriver to remove the push clips from the passenger-side splash shield or wheel well liner access area.
- Use an 8mm socket to remove any small screws holding the lower splash shield or liner in place.
- Pull the liner back enough to see the belt and pulleys.
- Do not force plastic clips.
Step 4: Locate the Belt Tensioner
- Use a flashlight to look at the belt path from the passenger wheel well.
- Find the smooth pulley mounted on the spring-loaded tensioner arm.
- Look for the square drive opening or bolt head on the tensioner used to rotate it.
Step 5: Release Belt Tension
- Install the serpentine belt tool with 3/8-inch drive adapter into the tensioner drive opening, or use a 3/8-inch drive breaker bar if access allows.
- If your tensioner uses a bolt head instead, use a 15mm socket on the tensioner bolt head.
- Slowly rotate the tensioner away from the belt to loosen belt tension.
- Slide the belt off the easiest smooth pulley first while holding the tensioner released.
- Slowly let the tensioner return to its resting position.
- Move slowly and protect your fingers.
Step 6: Remove the Old Belt
- Use your hands with mechanic gloves to pull the belt off the remaining pulleys.
- Remove the belt from the engine bay through the wheel well opening.
- Compare the old belt to the new serpentine drive belt.
- The new belt should have the same rib count and nearly the same length.
Step 7: Inspect the Pulleys
- Use your hand to spin each accessible pulley.
- Each pulley should turn smoothly without grinding, wobbling, or rough noise.
- Use a flashlight to check for oil or coolant on the pulleys.
- If a pulley is noisy, loose, or contaminated, repair that issue before installing the new belt.
Step 8: Route the New Belt
- Use your belt routing photo as your guide.
- Route the new serpentine drive belt around the crankshaft pulley first. This is the large lower pulley.
- Continue routing the belt around the grooved pulleys with the belt ribs seated in the pulley grooves.
- Leave one smooth pulley for last. Smooth pulleys touch the smooth back side of the belt.
- Ribs go into grooves.
Step 9: Release the Tensioner Again
- Use the serpentine belt tool with 3/8-inch drive adapter, 3/8-inch drive breaker bar, or 15mm socket to rotate the tensioner again.
- Slide the belt over the final smooth pulley.
- Slowly release the tensioner until it applies pressure to the belt.
- Do not let the tool snap back.
Step 10: Verify Belt Alignment
- Use a flashlight to inspect every pulley.
- Make sure the belt ribs sit fully inside every grooved pulley.
- Make sure the belt is centered on each smooth pulley.
- If the belt is off by even one rib, use the serpentine belt tool to release tension and reseat it.
Step 11: Reinstall the Wheel Well Liner
- Move the wheel well liner or splash shield back into position by hand.
- Install the push clips by hand, then seat them with a trim clip removal tool if needed.
- Use an 8mm socket to reinstall any small screws.
- Snug the screws gently. Plastic shields crack if overtightened.
Step 12: Lower the Vehicle
- Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to slightly lift the vehicle off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
- Lower your Escape slowly to the ground.
Step 13: Reconnect the Battery
- Place the negative battery cable back on the battery post.
- Use a 10mm socket and ratchet to tighten the clamp.
- Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs) if using a small torque wrench.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and watch the belt for 20-30 seconds.
- The belt should run smoothly with no wobble, squeal, or jumping.
- Turn the A/C on and listen again. A squeal may mean the belt is misrouted, contaminated, or not seated.
- Shut the engine off and recheck belt alignment with a flashlight.
- If the battery was disconnected, reset the clock and one-touch window function if needed.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$320 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $25-$70 (parts only)
You Save: $110-$295 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
















