How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2013-2016 Ford Escape (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, belt routing tips, safety steps, and cost savings for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2013-2016 Ford Escape (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, belt routing tips, safety steps, and cost savings for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
🔧 Escape - Serpentine Belt Replacement
The serpentine belt drives important accessories on your Escape, including the alternator, A/C compressor, and water pump drive system components. Replacing it is a good DIY job if the belt is cracked, squealing, glazed, or slipping.
Difficulty Level: Beginner-Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work only with the engine completely cool. The belt area is close to hot engine and exhaust components.
- ⚠️ Keep fingers, clothing, and tools away from pulleys. A pulley is a round wheel the belt rides on.
- ⚠️ Do not start the engine with the belt removed.
- ⚠️ Disconnecting the battery is recommended because your hands will be near rotating engine parts.
- ⚠️ Support your Escape with jack stands if you raise it. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm wrench
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive breaker bar
- Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
- Flat trim clip remover
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Work gloves
- Safety glasses
- Flashlight
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park your Escape on level ground and set the parking brake.
- 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- 🔋 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable. The negative cable is usually marked with a minus sign.
- 📸 Take a clear photo of the belt routing before removal. This helps you reinstall the belt correctly.
- 💡 A belt tensioner is a spring-loaded arm that keeps the belt tight. You will rotate it to remove belt tension.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise and Support the Front Passenger Side
- Use wheel chocks to secure the rear wheels.
- Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front passenger side at the proper front jacking point.
- Place a 2-ton minimum jack stand under the proper support point, then slowly lower the vehicle onto the stand.
- Gently shake the vehicle by hand to confirm it is stable before working near the wheel well.
Step 2: Remove the Passenger-Side Lower Splash Shield Access
- Put on safety glasses and work gloves.
- Use an 8mm socket to remove the small screws from the passenger-side lower splash shield or wheel-well access panel.
- Use a flat trim clip remover to release any plastic clips without breaking them.
- Move the shield aside so you can see the crankshaft pulley and belt area.
- Keep clips in a cup.
Step 3: Find the Belt Tensioner
- Use a flashlight to look at the front passenger side of the engine.
- Locate the spring-loaded belt tensioner. It will have a pulley on the end and a square drive or bolt head for tool access.
- Compare the belt routing to your photo before removing anything.
Step 4: Release Belt Tension
- Use a serpentine belt tool or 3/8-inch drive breaker bar on the tensioner access point.
- If your tensioner uses a bolt head, use a 15mm wrench on the tensioner bolt head.
- Slowly rotate the tensioner away from the belt to remove tension.
- While holding the tensioner, slide the belt off the easiest upper pulley by hand.
- Slowly let the tensioner return to its resting position. Do not let it snap back.
Step 5: Remove the Old Belt
- Use your hands to pull the belt off the remaining pulleys.
- Feed the belt out through the passenger-side wheel-well opening.
- Inspect the old belt for cracks, missing ribs, shiny glazing, or frayed edges.
Step 6: Inspect the Pulleys Before Installing the New Belt
- Use your hand to spin the accessible idler pulley and tensioner pulley. An idler pulley is a smooth pulley that only guides the belt.
- Listen for grinding or roughness. A bad pulley can quickly damage the new belt.
- Use a flashlight to check that all pulley grooves are clean and not packed with debris.
- If any pulley feels loose, noisy, or wobbly, replace that pulley before installing the new belt.
Step 7: Route the New Serpentine Belt
- Use your belt-routing photo as your guide.
- Feed the new serpentine belt into place from the passenger-side wheel-well opening.
- Wrap the ribbed side of the belt around grooved pulleys. The ribbed side has lengthwise grooves.
- Wrap the smooth side of the belt around smooth pulleys.
- Leave the easiest upper pulley for last.
- Do not force the belt.
Step 8: Release the Tensioner and Slip the Belt On
- Use the serpentine belt tool, 3/8-inch drive breaker bar, or 15mm wrench to rotate the tensioner again.
- Slide the belt over the last pulley by hand.
- Slowly release the tensioner until it tightens the belt.
- Check every pulley with a flashlight. The belt ribs must sit fully inside the pulley grooves.
Step 9: Reinstall the Splash Shield
- Reposition the passenger-side lower splash shield or wheel-well access panel.
- Install the plastic clips by hand.
- Use an 8mm socket to reinstall the shield screws snugly.
- If any 10mm or 13mm fasteners were removed from the shield area, reinstall them with the matching 10mm socket or 13mm socket and tighten snugly.
Step 10: Lower the Vehicle and Reconnect the Battery
- Use the floor jack to lift the passenger side slightly off the jack stand.
- Remove the jack stand by hand.
- Slowly lower your Escape to the ground with the floor jack.
- Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
- Tighten the battery terminal nut snugly. Do not overtighten it.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds.
- 👀 Watch the belt from a safe distance. It should run smoothly with no wobble, squeal, or wandering.
- 🔊 Turn the A/C on and listen for belt noise.
- 🛑 Shut the engine off and recheck belt alignment with a flashlight.
- 🔋 If the battery was disconnected, reset the clock and one-touch window function if needed.
- 🚗 Test drive gently, then recheck for noise or belt misalignment.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $160-$300 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $25-$70 (parts only)
You Save: $90-$230 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
















