🔧 Accord - Serpentine Belt Replacement

The serpentine belt drives key accessories like the alternator and A/C. Replacing it means safely lifting the right-front of your Accord, releasing the spring-loaded belt tensioner, and routing the new belt correctly.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cold engine to avoid burns.
• ⚠️ Support the car on jack stands—never rely on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers and tools clear of the tensioner while releasing it (it’s spring-loaded).
• ⚠️ Do not start the engine until the belt is fully seated on every pulley.
• ✅ Battery disconnect is not required for this job, but keep the key away from the car so no one can accidentally start it.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 14mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive extension (6")
• 10mm socket
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lb range)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flashlight
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
• Lower splash shield clips - Qty: 2-6

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and locate the belt routing diagram (usually on a sticker). If it’s missing, take a clear photo of the current belt routing before removal.
• Lay out your new belt and compare length/width to the old belt.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the right-front wheel lug nuts

• Use a 19mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts about 1/2 turn while the car is still on the ground.

Step 2: Lift and support the right-front of the car

• Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift the right-front jacking point.
• Set the car securely on jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Give the car a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable before working underneath.

Step 3: Remove the right-front wheel

• Remove the lug nuts using the 19mm socket and take off the wheel.
• During reassembly, install the wheel and lug nuts, then Torque to 108 N·m (80 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

Step 4: Remove the lower splash shield/inner fender access (as needed)

• Use a trim clip removal tool (a small forked tool that pops plastic clips out) to remove plastic push-clips.
• Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet and 3/8" drive extension (6") to remove any 10mm bolts holding the shield.
• Move the splash shield/liner aside to clearly see the belt and tensioner.
• Tip: If a clip fights you, pry the center pin first.

Step 5: Locate the belt tensioner and set up your tool

• Use a flashlight to find the belt tensioner (the spring-loaded arm with a pulley that keeps belt tension).
• Place a 14mm socket on the tensioner’s hex boss/bolt head and attach your 1/2" drive breaker bar.

Step 6: Release belt tension and remove the old belt

• Pull the 1/2" drive breaker bar to rotate the tensioner and loosen the belt.
• While holding tension off, slide the belt off the easiest-to-reach smooth pulley (commonly the tensioner pulley or another idler).
• Slowly return the tensioner to its resting position (don’t let it snap back).
• Remove the belt from the remaining pulleys and pull it out through the wheel well.

Step 7: Route the new belt onto the pulleys

• Route the new belt following the under-hood routing diagram (or your photo).
• Make sure the belt ribs sit perfectly in the grooved pulleys and the belt sits centered on any smooth pulleys.
• Leave one easy pulley for last (so you have slack to slip it on).
• Tip: If it’s “almost” on, it’s usually routed wrong.

Step 8: Apply tension and seat the belt fully

• Use the 14mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar to rotate the tensioner again.
• Slip the belt over the last pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
• Visually inspect every pulley: the belt must be fully seated and aligned.

Step 9: Reinstall splash shield/liner and wheel

• Reinstall the splash shield and clips using the trim clip removal tool.
• Reinstall any bolts using the 10mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Reinstall the wheel using the 19mm socket.
• Lower the car with the floor jack and remove jack stands.
• Final-tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern and Torque to 108 N·m (80 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

---

✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and watch the belt for 20-30 seconds; it should run smoothly with no wobble.
• Listen for squealing or slapping noises. If you hear any, shut the engine off and re-check belt routing and seating.
• Take a short test drive, then do one more quick visual check through the wheel well.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $170-$320 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $25-$70 (parts only)

You Save: $100-$250 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.