How to Replace the Rear Window Regulator on a 2013 Toyota Corolla
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2009, 2010, 2011
How to Replace the Rear Window Regulator on a 2013 Toyota Corolla
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2009, 2010, 2011
đź”§ Rear Window Regulator - Replacement
The rear window regulator controls the up-and-down movement of the rear window glass. On your Corolla, this is a door-internal repair that requires removing the door trim panel, disconnecting the glass, and swapping the regulator assembly.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours per side
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting. Power windows can move suddenly.
- Use care around the side airbag in the rear door area, if equipped.
- Support the window glass so it does not drop into the door.
- Use painter’s tape to hold the glass in place while the regulator is removed.
- Keep fingers away from the regulator tracks and cable drum.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- Phillips screwdriver
- Trim panel removal tool
- Ratchet
- Extension bar
- Torque wrench
- Painter’s tape
- Needle-nose pliers
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear window regulator assembly - Qty: 1 per side
- Rear window motor - Qty: 1 per side, if not included with regulator
- Door panel clips - Qty: 1 set
- Plastic moisture barrier adhesive - Qty: 1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Lower the rear window slightly if it still moves. If it is stuck, work with it fully up.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Use painter’s tape across the glass to the door frame once the glass is free.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the rear door trim panel
- Use a trim panel removal tool to pop off the switch bezel and any trim covers.
- Remove the screws with a Phillips screwdriver and 10mm socket.
- Lift and unclip the door panel carefully.
- Disconnect any electrical connectors from the switch panel.
Step 2: Remove the moisture barrier
- Peel back the plastic moisture barrier slowly.
- Use a trim panel removal tool if needed so you do not tear it.
- Keep the barrier clean for reuse.
Step 3: Secure the window glass
- Use painter’s tape to hold the glass in the full-up position.
- If the glass is already broken or loose, remove all shards before continuing.
Step 4: Disconnect the glass from the regulator
- Use a 10mm socket and ratchet to remove the glass clamp bolts through the service openings.
- Support the glass with one hand while loosening the clamps.
- Once free, tape the glass to the door frame again so it cannot move.
Step 5: Remove the regulator and motor assembly
- Use a 10mm socket and 12mm socket to remove the regulator mounting bolts.
- If the motor is separate, unplug it and remove its bolts with a 10mm socket.
- Rotate and maneuver the regulator out through the largest door opening.
- Watch for sharp edges inside the door.
Step 6: Install the new regulator
- Feed the new regulator into the door cavity.
- Start all mounting bolts by hand using a 10mm socket.
- Install the motor if it is separate and connect the electrical plug.
- Torque the regulator and motor bolts to 8-10 Nm (71-89 in-lbs).
Step 7: Reattach the window glass
- Lower the taped glass carefully until the clamps line up with the regulator.
- Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the glass clamp bolts.
- Torque the glass clamp bolts to 6-8 Nm (53-71 in-lbs).
Step 8: Test the window operation
- Reconnect the battery negative cable.
- Use the window switch to move the glass up and down.
- Check that the glass stays in the track and moves smoothly.
- Stop immediately if you hear grinding.
Step 9: Reinstall the door panel
- Press the moisture barrier back into place.
- Reconnect all electrical plugs.
- Align the panel and snap it into the clips.
- Reinstall all screws with a Phillips screwdriver and 10mm socket.
âś… After Repair
- Run the window fully up and down several times.
- Check for binding, noise, or crooked movement.
- Make sure the door panel is fully clipped in.
- If the auto-up/down feature is lost, perform the window initialization procedure from the owner’s manual.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $300-$650 per side (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $80-$220 per side (parts only)
You Save: $150-$430 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours per side.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















