How to Replace the Rear Wheel Bearing on a 2017 Toyota Camry
Step-by-step hub assembly replacement with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
How to Replace the Rear Wheel Bearing on a 2017 Toyota Camry
Step-by-step hub assembly replacement with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
🔧 Rear Wheel Bearings - Hub Assembly Replacement
On your Camry, the rear wheel bearing is replaced as a hub and bearing assembly. This job involves removing the wheel, brake components, and the rear hub unit, then installing the new assembly and torquing everything back to spec.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours per side
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Support the car securely on jack stands before removing any rear suspension or brake parts.
- Engage the parking brake before lifting, then release it only when you need to remove the rear rotor or hub parts.
- If the brake rotor is stuck, do not pry against the backing plate or ABS sensor area.
- Do not let the brake caliper hang by the hose.
- Keep dirt and metal debris away from the ABS wheel speed sensor and tone ring.
- Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands
- Wheel chocks
- 21mm lug wrench or socket
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 10mm socket
- Ratchet
- Breaker bar
- Torque wrench
- Flat blade screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers
- Rubber mallet
- Penetrating oil
- Brake cleaner
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear wheel hub and bearing assembly - Qty: 1 per side
- Rear hub mounting bolts - Qty: 4 per side
- Rear brake caliper bracket bolts - Qty: 2 if damaged or corroded
- Rear brake pads - Qty: 1 set if wear is near limit
- Rear brake rotor - Qty: 1 per side if worn or damaged
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 1 can
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and chock the front wheels.
- Set the parking brake before lifting the rear of the car.
- If you are replacing one side only, the opposite side can stay assembled.
- Soak the hub bolts and caliper bolts with penetrating oil before starting if they are rusty.
- Rusty bolts move easier after a few minutes.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and secure the car
- Use a floor jack to raise the rear of the car at the proper lift point.
- Support it with jack stands under the rear support points.
- Remove the wheel using a 21mm lug wrench or socket.
- Torque wheel lug nuts to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs) during reassembly.
Step 2: Remove the brake caliper and bracket
- Use a 14mm socket to remove the caliper slide bolts.
- Lift the caliper off and hang it with wire or a hook so the hose is not stressed.
- Use a 17mm socket to remove the caliper bracket bolts.
- Torque caliper bracket bolts to 102 Nm (75 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
- Do not let the caliper dangle.
Step 3: Remove the brake rotor
- Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
- If it is stuck, use a rubber mallet and tap around the rotor hat.
- If needed, back off the parking brake slightly to free the rotor.
- Set the rotor aside on a clean surface.
Step 4: Disconnect the ABS wheel speed sensor if needed
- Locate the rear ABS sensor harness and connector.
- Use a 10mm socket if a sensor bracket bolt must be removed for access.
- Unclip the harness carefully with needle-nose pliers if needed.
- Do not pull on the wire itself.
Step 5: Remove the hub and bearing assembly
- Use a 14mm socket to remove the hub mounting bolts from the back side of the knuckle.
- If the hub is stuck in the knuckle, spray penetrating oil around the seam.
- Tap the hub assembly out gently with a rubber mallet.
- Remove the hub assembly from the knuckle.
- Work evenly so the hub comes out straight.
Step 6: Clean the mounting surface
- Use a wire brush if available and brake cleaner to clean the knuckle mounting surface.
- Make sure there is no rust or debris where the new hub sits.
- Inspect the ABS sensor area for damage or buildup.
Step 7: Install the new hub and bearing assembly
- Position the new hub assembly into the knuckle by hand.
- Start all hub bolts by hand first.
- Use a 14mm socket to tighten the hub bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern.
- Torque hub bolts to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs).
Step 8: Reinstall the rotor, bracket, and caliper
- Slide the rotor back onto the hub.
- Reinstall the caliper bracket using a 17mm socket.
- Torque caliper bracket bolts to 102 Nm (75 ft-lbs).
- Reinstall the caliper using a 14mm socket.
- Torque caliper slide bolts to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Reinstall the wheel and lower the car
- Put the wheel back on and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
- Lower the car with the floor jack.
- Use a 21mm lug wrench or socket to torque the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Torque wheel lug nuts to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Pump the brake pedal several times before moving the car.
- Check that the wheel spins freely with no scraping.
- Road test at low speed first and listen for noise.
- Recheck lug nut torque after the test drive.
- If the ABS light is on, scan for wheel speed sensor faults.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$700 per side (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $120-$280 per side (parts only)
You Save: $230-$420 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours per side.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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