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2019 Ford Explorer
2011 - 2019 Ford Explorer
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How to Replace Rear Door Lock Actuators 2011-2019 Ford Explorer

How to Replace Rear Door Lock Actuators 2011-2019 Ford Explorer

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

7mm
7mm
Socket
or (1/4")
8mm
8mm
Socket
or (5/16")
10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
1.5"
1.5"
Extension
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How to Replace the Rear Door Lock Actuator on a 2019 Ford Explorer

Step-by-step guide with tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for DIY repair for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

How to Replace the Rear Door Lock Actuator on a 2019 Ford Explorer

Step-by-step guide with tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for DIY repair for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

Orion
Orion

🔧 Rear Door Lock Actuator - Replacement

The rear door lock actuator is built into the latch assembly on your Explorer. Replacing it means removing the door trim panel, disconnecting the latch cables and connectors, then swapping the latch/actuator assembly and reassembling the door.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting. This helps prevent accidental window, lock, or air bag-related electrical issues.
  • Work with the window fully raised and the door fully open.
  • Use care around the side curtain air bag area inside the door trim and pillar area.
  • Do not force the latch or rods; the plastic retainers can break easily.
  • Keep track of every clip and screw.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 7mm socket
  • 8mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • Ratchet
  • Short extension
  • Trim panel removal tool
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Torx T20 screwdriver
  • Torx T30 screwdriver
  • Pick tool
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Electrical connector release tool
  • Torque wrench
  • Safety glasses
  • Gloves
  • Jack stands

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear door latch and lock actuator assembly - Qty: 1
  • Door trim panel clips - Qty: 1 set
  • Foam vapor barrier adhesive - Qty: 1
  • Door handle bezel clips - Qty: 1 set

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on a level surface and set the parking brake.
  • Lower the rear window slightly if needed for access, then raise it again before disconnecting the battery.
  • Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
  • Wait at least 5 minutes after battery disconnect before working near trim and connectors.
  • Take photos before unplugging anything.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear door trim panel

  • Use a trim panel removal tool to pop off the small covers and pry up the trim pieces around the door pull and handle.
  • Use a 7mm socket or Torx T20 screwdriver to remove the visible trim screws.
  • Lift the panel straight up to release it from the top window ledge, then pull it away carefully.
  • Disconnect any electrical connectors using an electrical connector release tool.

Step 2: Remove the moisture barrier

  • Peel back the door vapor barrier slowly by hand.
  • Use a pick tool only if needed to lift adhesive without tearing the barrier.
  • Keep the barrier clean so it can be reused or resealed.

Step 3: Disconnect the latch cables and connectors

  • Locate the latch assembly at the rear edge of the door.
  • Use a pick tool and needle-nose pliers to unclip the inside and outside handle cables from the latch.
  • Unplug the latch electrical connector by releasing the lock tab first.
  • Do not pry on the wires.

Step 4: Remove the latch/actuator assembly

  • Use an 8mm socket or Torx T30 screwdriver to remove the latch mounting fasteners at the rear door edge.
  • Support the latch with one hand while removing the last fastener.
  • Rotate and work the assembly out of the door shell.
  • Torque to factory specification during reassembly.

Step 5: Install the new latch/actuator assembly

  • Position the new assembly in the door the same way the old one came out.
  • Install the mounting fasteners by hand first using the 8mm socket or Torx T30 screwdriver.
  • Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.
  • Reattach the handle cables and make sure each retaining clip locks fully.
  • Torque to factory specification on all latch fasteners.

Step 6: Test the latch before reassembly

  • Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
  • Test the power lock with the key fob and the interior switch.
  • Test the inside and outside door handles.
  • Make sure the door latches, unlocks, and opens normally before reinstalling trim.

Step 7: Reinstall the moisture barrier and trim panel

  • Press the vapor barrier back into place and reseal any loose edges.
  • Reconnect all trim panel electrical connectors.
  • Set the top of the trim panel on the window ledge first, then press the clips into place.
  • Install the screws using a 7mm socket or Torx T20 screwdriver.
  • Torque to factory specification for all trim screws.

✅ After Repair

  • Cycle the rear door lock several times with the key fob and switch.
  • Open and close the door to confirm smooth latch operation.
  • Check that the window, speaker, and any door switches work correctly.
  • If the lock still acts up, scan for body control module fault codes.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $90-$220 (parts only)

You Save: $260-$430 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3 hours.


🎯 Ready to get started?

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