How to Replace the Rear Door Lock Actuator on a 2017 Ford Explorer
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and testing for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
How to Replace the Rear Door Lock Actuator on a 2017 Ford Explorer
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and testing for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Rear Door Lock Actuator - Replacement
The rear door lock actuator on your Explorer is built into the door latch assembly, so the repair is usually a latch replacement rather than a separate motor swap. You’ll remove the interior door panel, disconnect the latch rods and connector, then install the new latch/actuator assembly.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting. This helps prevent accidental power lock operation and airbag-related issues in the door.
- Work with the window fully closed. It gives you more room and reduces the chance of glass damage.
- Be careful with the side curtain airbag area near the upper door trim. Do not probe yellow airbag wiring connectors.
- Door clips can break easily. Pry straight and evenly to avoid cracking the panel.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 7mm socket
- 10mm socket
- Ratchet
- Small extension
- Trim panel removal tool
- Flat plastic pry tool
- Torx T20 screwdriver
- Torx T30 screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers
- Pick tool
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear door lock actuator / latch assembly - Qty: 1
- Door panel clips - Qty: 1 set
- Foam vapor barrier adhesive or butyl tape - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Lower the window only if needed for access, then return it fully up before removing the latch.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable and wait at least 10 minutes before working near the door wiring.
- Keep track of every screw and clip as you remove them. A small parts tray helps a lot.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the door trim panel
- Use a 7mm socket to remove the screws in the pull handle and lower door area.
- Use a trim panel removal tool to pop the door panel clips loose around the edges.
- Lift the panel straight up to unhook it from the window ledge.
- Disconnect the electrical connectors for the window switch and any courtesy light.
- Work slowly to avoid breaking clips.
Step 2: Remove the vapor barrier
- Peel back the foam vapor barrier carefully by hand.
- If the adhesive sticks hard, use a flat plastic pry tool to lift it without tearing.
- Set the barrier aside so you can reinstall it later.
Step 3: Disconnect the latch linkages
- Locate the lock rod and exterior handle rod at the latch opening.
- Use a pick tool or needle-nose pliers to release the plastic retaining clips.
- Slide the rods out of the latch levers.
- Unplug the electrical connector from the latch actuator.
Step 4: Remove the latch/actuator assembly
- Use a Torx T30 screwdriver to remove the latch retaining screws on the door edge.
- Support the latch with your hand while removing the last screw.
- Rotate and maneuver the latch assembly out through the access opening.
Step 5: Install the new latch/actuator assembly
- Compare the new part to the old one before installing it.
- Feed the new assembly into position and align it with the door edge opening.
- Install the retaining screws by hand first, then tighten with the Torx T30 screwdriver.
- Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).
Step 6: Reconnect the rods and wiring
- Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.
- Reinstall the lock rod and handle rod into their levers.
- Snap the plastic retaining clips back into place.
- Make sure each rod moves freely and is seated correctly.
Step 7: Test the latch before reassembly
- Reconnect the battery temporarily if needed for testing.
- Use the key fob, interior lock switch, and door handle to check lock and unlock operation.
- Close the door gently and verify it latches and opens properly.
- If it does not work, stop and recheck the rods and connector.
Step 8: Reinstall the vapor barrier and door panel
- Press the vapor barrier back into place. Use fresh adhesive or butyl tape if needed.
- Reconnect the door panel electrical connectors.
- Hang the panel on the window ledge first, then press the clips in around the edges.
- Reinstall all screws with the 7mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- Test the rear door lock several times with the key fob and door switch.
- Open and close the door multiple times to confirm the latch works smoothly.
- Check that the window, speaker, and any door controls still work.
- Listen for any rattles from loose clips or trim.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $90-$220 (parts only)
You Save: $260-$430 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















