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2017 Ford Explorer
2011 - 2019 Ford Explorer
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How to Replace Rear Door Lock Actuators 2011-2019 Ford Explorer

How to Replace Rear Door Lock Actuators 2011-2019 Ford Explorer

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

7mm
7mm
Socket
or (1/4")
10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
1.5"
1.5"
Extension
Panel
Panel
Removal Tool
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How to Replace the Rear Door Lock Actuator on a 2017 Ford Explorer

Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and testing for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

How to Replace the Rear Door Lock Actuator on a 2017 Ford Explorer

Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and testing for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

Orion
Orion

🔧 Rear Door Lock Actuator - Replacement

The rear door lock actuator on your Explorer is built into the door latch assembly, so the repair is usually a latch replacement rather than a separate motor swap. You’ll remove the interior door panel, disconnect the latch rods and connector, then install the new latch/actuator assembly.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting. This helps prevent accidental power lock operation and airbag-related issues in the door.
  • Work with the window fully closed. It gives you more room and reduces the chance of glass damage.
  • Be careful with the side curtain airbag area near the upper door trim. Do not probe yellow airbag wiring connectors.
  • Door clips can break easily. Pry straight and evenly to avoid cracking the panel.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 7mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • Ratchet
  • Small extension
  • Trim panel removal tool
  • Flat plastic pry tool
  • Torx T20 screwdriver
  • Torx T30 screwdriver
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Pick tool
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear door lock actuator / latch assembly - Qty: 1
  • Door panel clips - Qty: 1 set
  • Foam vapor barrier adhesive or butyl tape - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
  • Lower the window only if needed for access, then return it fully up before removing the latch.
  • Disconnect the negative battery cable and wait at least 10 minutes before working near the door wiring.
  • Keep track of every screw and clip as you remove them. A small parts tray helps a lot.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the door trim panel

  • Use a 7mm socket to remove the screws in the pull handle and lower door area.
  • Use a trim panel removal tool to pop the door panel clips loose around the edges.
  • Lift the panel straight up to unhook it from the window ledge.
  • Disconnect the electrical connectors for the window switch and any courtesy light.
  • Work slowly to avoid breaking clips.

Step 2: Remove the vapor barrier

  • Peel back the foam vapor barrier carefully by hand.
  • If the adhesive sticks hard, use a flat plastic pry tool to lift it without tearing.
  • Set the barrier aside so you can reinstall it later.

Step 3: Disconnect the latch linkages

  • Locate the lock rod and exterior handle rod at the latch opening.
  • Use a pick tool or needle-nose pliers to release the plastic retaining clips.
  • Slide the rods out of the latch levers.
  • Unplug the electrical connector from the latch actuator.

Step 4: Remove the latch/actuator assembly

  • Use a Torx T30 screwdriver to remove the latch retaining screws on the door edge.
  • Support the latch with your hand while removing the last screw.
  • Rotate and maneuver the latch assembly out through the access opening.

Step 5: Install the new latch/actuator assembly

  • Compare the new part to the old one before installing it.
  • Feed the new assembly into position and align it with the door edge opening.
  • Install the retaining screws by hand first, then tighten with the Torx T30 screwdriver.
  • Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).

Step 6: Reconnect the rods and wiring

  • Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.
  • Reinstall the lock rod and handle rod into their levers.
  • Snap the plastic retaining clips back into place.
  • Make sure each rod moves freely and is seated correctly.

Step 7: Test the latch before reassembly

  • Reconnect the battery temporarily if needed for testing.
  • Use the key fob, interior lock switch, and door handle to check lock and unlock operation.
  • Close the door gently and verify it latches and opens properly.
  • If it does not work, stop and recheck the rods and connector.

Step 8: Reinstall the vapor barrier and door panel

  • Press the vapor barrier back into place. Use fresh adhesive or butyl tape if needed.
  • Reconnect the door panel electrical connectors.
  • Hang the panel on the window ledge first, then press the clips in around the edges.
  • Reinstall all screws with the 7mm socket.

✅ After Repair

  • Test the rear door lock several times with the key fob and door switch.
  • Open and close the door multiple times to confirm the latch works smoothly.
  • Check that the window, speaker, and any door controls still work.
  • Listen for any rattles from loose clips or trim.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $90-$220 (parts only)

You Save: $260-$430 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.


🎯 Ready to get started?

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