How to Replace the Radiator Hose on a 2017 Ford Explorer
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, coolant refill, and leak checks for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024, 2025
How to Replace the Radiator Hose on a 2017 Ford Explorer
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, coolant refill, and leak checks for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024, 2025
🔧 Radiator Hose - Replacement
Assumption: this covers the main coolant hose at the radiator. On your Explorer, the hose must be removed carefully because the cooling system is pressurized and hot coolant can spray if the engine is warm.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Let the engine go completely cold before opening the cooling system.
- Use a drain pan and keep coolant away from pets and children.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves. Coolant can irritate skin and eyes.
- Do not remove the radiator cap when the system is hot or under pressure.
- No battery disconnect is required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Pliers
- 10mm socket
- Ratchet
- Extension bar
- Funnel
- Clean shop towels
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 2
- Motorcraft Orange coolant - Qty: 2 gallons
- Coolant spill cleanup material - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine sit until it is fully cold.
- Open the hood and locate the radiator hose routing before removing anything.
- Place a drain pan under the radiator area to catch coolant.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Relieve pressure and access the hose
- Make sure the engine is cold.
- Slowly loosen the coolant reservoir cap to release any leftover pressure.
- If needed for access, raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support it with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Never work under a car supported only by a jack.
Step 2: Drain enough coolant
- Place the drain pan under the radiator drain area.
- Open the radiator drain or disconnect the lower hose slightly if needed, using pliers or a flat-blade screwdriver depending on the clamp style.
- Drain enough coolant so the hose level drops below the hose connection.
- Close the drain once the coolant level is low enough.
Step 3: Remove the old hose
- Use pliers to slide spring clamps back, or use a flat-blade screwdriver to loosen worm-style clamps.
- Twist the hose gently by hand to break it free.
- Pull the hose off both ends.
- If it sticks, carefully work it loose with your hand. Do not pry hard against the radiator neck.
Step 4: Clean the hose connections
- Use a clean shop towel to wipe the radiator neck and engine-side fitting.
- Remove any crust, old rubber, or corrosion so the new hose seals well.
- Clean fittings help prevent leaks.
Step 5: Install the new hose
- Slide the new radiator hose clamps onto the hose first.
- Push the new radiator hose fully onto both fittings until it seats past the raised bead.
- Position the clamps directly over the hose sealing area.
- Use pliers or a flat-blade screwdriver to secure the clamps.
- If the clamps are worm-style, snug them firmly. Do not crush the hose.
Step 6: Refill the cooling system
- Use a funnel to refill with Motorcraft Orange coolant.
- Fill the reservoir to the correct mark.
- Start the engine and let it idle with the heater set to hot.
- Watch the coolant level and top off as air purges from the system.
Step 7: Check for leaks
- Use a 10mm socket and ratchet only if any nearby splash shields or access covers must be removed and reinstalled.
- Inspect both ends of the hose while the engine is running.
- Look for drips, seepage, or hose movement.
- Shut the engine off and let it cool, then recheck the coolant level.
✅ After Repair
- Drive the vehicle and monitor the temperature gauge.
- Recheck coolant level after the first full heat cycle.
- Inspect the hose again for leaks after a short test drive.
- If the temperature rises above normal or the heater blows cold, air may still be trapped in the system.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $220-$480 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $55-$140 (parts only)
You Save: $165-$340 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.











