How to Replace the Radiator Hose on a 2016 GMC Acadia (Upper or Lower)
Step-by-step cooling system guide with tools, parts, Dex-Cool refill/bleed tips, and safety checks for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
How to Replace the Radiator Hose on a 2016 GMC Acadia (Upper or Lower)
Step-by-step cooling system guide with tools, parts, Dex-Cool refill/bleed tips, and safety checks for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
đź”§ Acadia - Radiator Hose Replacement
Replacing a radiator hose stops coolant leaks and prevents overheating. You’ll remove the old hose, install the new one with secure clamps, then refill/bleed the cooling system so no air pockets remain.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours
Assumption: steps apply to either upper or lower radiator hose.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never open the coolant cap on a hot engine; hot coolant can spray and burn.
- ⚠️ Support the SUV with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Keep coolant off belts and electrical connectors; wipe spills immediately.
- ⚠️ Coolant is toxic—use a drain pan and keep it away from kids/pets.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Drain pan (at least 3-gallon)
- Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
- Pick tool
- Flathead screwdriver
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive extension (6")
- Torque wrench (3/8" drive)
- Funnel
- Shop towels
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Radiator hose (upper or lower, as needed) - Qty: 1
- Hose clamps (correct size for the hose) - Qty: 2
- Dex-Cool coolant (50/50 premix) - Qty: 1-2 gallons
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool completely (ideally several hours).
- Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
- Position a drain pan under the radiator area before loosening anything.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise the front (if you’re doing the lower hose)
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the approved lift point.
- Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and give it a firm shake test.
Step 2: Relieve any leftover pressure
- Place a shop towel over the coolant surge tank cap.
- Slowly loosen the cap by hand to release any pressure, then remove it fully.
Step 3: Drain coolant to below hose level
- Position the drain pan (at least 3-gallon) under the radiator.
- Open the radiator drain (if accessible) by turning it carefully using a flathead screwdriver.
- If the drain isn’t accessible, you can drain by loosening the lower hose clamp in Step 5 and letting coolant flow into the pan.
Step 4: Remove any covers blocking access
- Remove any upper engine cover/air ducting in the way using an 8mm socket, 10mm socket, 3/8" drive ratchet, and 3/8" drive extension (6").
- Set fasteners aside where they won’t get lost.
Step 5: Release the hose clamps
- Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to squeeze the clamp tabs and slide the clamp back several inches on the hose.
- Clamp pliers lock the clamp open for you.
- If you have screw-type clamps instead, loosen them with a flathead screwdriver.
Step 6: Remove the old hose
- Twist the hose by hand to break it free from the fitting.
- If it’s stuck, gently work around the edge with a pick tool to break the seal.
- Don’t pry hard—plastic fittings crack easily.
- Pull the hose off and let remaining coolant drain into the drain pan.
Step 7: Inspect and clean the fittings
- Wipe the radiator neck and engine-side neck with shop towels.
- Check for cracks, deep corrosion, or a broken hose bead (the raised lip that holds the clamp). If damaged, don’t force the new hose on.
Step 8: Install the new hose and clamps
- Slide the new clamps onto the new hose before installing the hose.
- Push the hose fully onto each fitting until it bottoms out.
- Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to position spring clamps directly over the fitting’s bead (raised lip).
- If using screw clamps, tighten with a flathead screwdriver until snug (do not crush the hose).
Step 9: Reinstall anything you removed
- Reinstall ducts/covers using an 8mm socket and 10mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet.
- If you removed any small bracket bolts, tighten with a torque wrench (3/8" drive) to Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs) unless the bolt size/label indicates otherwise.
Step 10: Refill coolant
- Close the radiator drain (if used) by hand, then snug carefully with a flathead screwdriver.
- Use a funnel to fill the surge tank with Dex-Cool coolant (50/50 premix) to the COLD line.
Step 11: Bleed air from the cooling system
- Start the engine and set the HVAC to full HOT (this opens coolant flow through the heater core).
- Let the engine idle while watching the coolant level; add coolant using a funnel as the level drops.
- When the engine reaches operating temperature, you should feel the radiator hose get hot (thermostat opened).
- Shut the engine off, let it cool, then recheck and top off to the COLD line.
Step 12: Lower the vehicle
- Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift slightly, remove jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum), then lower the vehicle.
âś… After Repair
- With the engine running, inspect both ends of the hose for seepage or spraying.
- Take a 10–15 minute test drive, then recheck for leaks.
- After the next full cool-down, recheck the surge tank level and top off with Dex-Cool coolant (50/50 premix) if needed.
- Dispose of old coolant properly (most parts stores accept it for recycling).
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$550 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)
You Save: $130-$430 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.8 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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