How to Replace the Radiator Hose on a 2014-2018 GMC Sierra 1500 (Engine: V6 4.3L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, DEX-COOL coolant, safety tips, and leak checks for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
How to Replace the Radiator Hose on a 2014-2018 GMC Sierra 1500 (Engine: V6 4.3L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, DEX-COOL coolant, safety tips, and leak checks for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
🔧 Sierra 1500 - Radiator Hose Replacement
This job replaces a leaking, swollen, cracked, or soft radiator hose on your Sierra 1500. The upper and lower radiator hoses carry hot coolant between the engine and radiator, so replacing a bad hose helps prevent overheating and coolant loss.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Only work on the cooling system when the engine is completely cold. Hot coolant can cause severe burns.
- ⚠️ Do not remove the radiator cap or surge tank cap while the system is hot or pressurized.
- ⚠️ Keep coolant away from pets and children. Coolant is poisonous and has a sweet smell.
- ⚠️ Use jack stands if you raise the front of the truck. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan 3-gallon minimum
- Flat-blade screwdriver 1/4-inch
- 8mm nut driver
- Hose clamp pliers
- Hose pick tool
- Slip-joint pliers 10-inch
- Funnel with long neck
- Clean shop towels
- Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 4
- DEX-COOL 50/50 premixed coolant - Qty: 1-2 gallons
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Sierra 1500 on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool fully. A safe wait is several hours after driving.
- Open the hood and locate the coolant surge tank on the passenger side of the engine bay.
- If replacing the lower radiator hose, raise the front of the truck with a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum and support it with jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
- A hose pick is a small hooked tool used to gently break the hose loose from the metal or plastic fitting.
- Hose clamp pliers are pliers designed to squeeze spring clamps evenly without slipping.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Relieve Cooling System Pressure
- Make sure the engine is cold to the touch.
- Use your hand with nitrile gloves to slowly loosen the coolant surge tank cap.
- If you hear pressure escaping, stop and wait until it finishes before fully removing the cap.
- Set the cap aside on a clean towel.
Step 2: Position the Drain Pan
- Place a drain pan 3-gallon minimum under the radiator hose area you are replacing.
- For the upper hose, place the pan under the passenger-side front area near the radiator connection.
- For the lower hose, place the pan under the lower radiator outlet.
- Coolant spreads fast. Use a wide pan.
Step 3: Drain Enough Coolant
- If your radiator has an accessible drain petcock, use a flat-blade screwdriver 1/4-inch or your fingers to carefully open it and drain coolant into the pan.
- If the drain petcock is not easily accessible, loosen the lower hose slowly during removal and let coolant drain into the pan.
- You only need to drain coolant below the hose level, not the entire system.
- Close the drain petcock by hand if opened. Do not overtighten plastic parts.
Step 4: Remove the Hose Clamps
- For spring-style clamps, use hose clamp pliers to squeeze the clamp tabs together.
- Slide the clamp back several inches onto the hose.
- For worm-gear clamps, use an 8mm nut driver or flat-blade screwdriver 1/4-inch to loosen the clamp.
- Repeat this at both ends of the hose.
Step 5: Break the Old Hose Loose
- Use a hose pick tool to gently work around the edge of the hose where it meets the fitting.
- Do not stab or pry hard against plastic radiator necks. They can crack.
- Use slip-joint pliers 10-inch to twist the hose gently if it is stuck.
- Twist first, then pull.
Step 6: Remove the Old Radiator Hose
- Pull the hose off the radiator fitting first, using your hands with nitrile gloves.
- Let remaining coolant drain into the drain pan 3-gallon minimum.
- Remove the other end of the hose from the engine fitting.
- Use clean shop towels to wipe spilled coolant from nearby parts.
Step 7: Inspect the Hose Fittings
- Use clean shop towels to clean the radiator and engine hose fittings.
- Check for cracks, deep corrosion, old rubber stuck to the fitting, or damaged plastic.
- Use the hose pick tool only lightly if old rubber is stuck.
- Do not sand plastic radiator necks.
Step 8: Install the New Hose
- Compare the new hose with the old hose to confirm the bends and length match.
- Slide the new clamps onto the new hose before installing it.
- Push the hose fully onto the engine fitting by hand.
- Push the other end fully onto the radiator fitting by hand.
- Make sure the hose is not twisted, kinked, or rubbing against the fan, belt, or sharp edges.
Step 9: Secure the Hose Clamps
- For spring clamps, use hose clamp pliers to move each clamp into its original clamp mark on the hose.
- For worm-gear clamps, use an 8mm nut driver to tighten each clamp snugly.
- Do not crush the hose or plastic radiator fitting.
- If using worm-gear clamps, tighten evenly until the hose cannot rotate by hand. No published torque is typically specified for standard radiator hose worm clamps.
Step 10: Refill the Cooling System
- Place a funnel with long neck into the coolant surge tank opening.
- Add DEX-COOL 50/50 premixed coolant until the level reaches the cold fill mark on the surge tank.
- Install the surge tank cap by hand.
- Use clean shop towels to wipe away any spilled coolant.
Step 11: Warm Up and Check for Leaks
- Start the engine and let it idle with the hood open.
- Set the cabin heater to full hot and blower to low.
- Watch the hose connections closely while wearing safety glasses.
- Do not put hands near the fan, belt, or pulleys while the engine is running.
- When the upper hose gets warm, check again for leaks around both clamps.
Step 12: Final Coolant Level Check
- Turn the engine off and let it cool completely.
- Use your hand with nitrile gloves to slowly remove the surge tank cap only after the engine is cold.
- Add DEX-COOL 50/50 premixed coolant to the cold fill mark if needed.
- Reinstall the cap by hand until fully seated.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Recheck the coolant level after the first full heat-up and cool-down cycle.
- ✅ Look under your Sierra 1500 after parking overnight to confirm there are no drips.
- ✅ Watch the temperature gauge during the next drive. It should stay in the normal range.
- ✅ If the heater blows cold at idle or the temperature rises, stop driving and recheck coolant level after the engine cools.
- ✅ Dispose of old coolant properly. Do not pour it on the ground or into a drain.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$350 parts + labor
DIY Cost: $35-$120 parts only
You Save: $145-$230 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.











