🔧 Radiator Hose - Replacement

Replacing a radiator hose fixes coolant leaks, soft swelling hoses, cracking, or a hose that has slipped loose. On your Accord, the job is straightforward, but you must bleed air from the cooling system afterward so the engine does not overheat.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Let the engine get completely cold before opening the cooling system.
• Coolant can spray under pressure and cause burns.
• Keep coolant away from pets and children; it is toxic.
• Use jack stands if you raise the car. Never rely on a jack alone.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable only if you need extra access near fan wiring.
• If your hose is near the radiator fan, keep hands clear when the engine is running for the final leak check.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Ratchet
• 10mm socket
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Pliers
• Hose pick (specialty)
• Drain pan
• Funnel
• Jack stands
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Shop towels

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Radiator hose - Qty: 1
• Hose clamps - Qty: 2
• Honda Type 2 coolant - Qty: 1-2 gallons

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Let the engine cool fully before opening the radiator cap or drain.
• Have a drain pan ready before you loosen any hose.
• If replacing the lower hose, raise the front of the car for better access.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve coolant pressure

• With the engine cold, slowly remove the radiator cap.
• If the cap is hard to turn, stop and wait longer.
• Never force a hot cooling system.

Step 2: Drain coolant to below the hose level

• Place the drain pan under the radiator drain area.
• Use the drain petcock or lower hose connection to lower the coolant level enough so the hose can be removed without spilling a lot.
• If equipped with a drain petcock, turn it by hand or with a flat-blade screwdriver as needed.
• No torque spec applies here.

Step 3: Remove the old hose

• Use pliers to compress the spring clamps, then slide the clamps back on the hose.
• Use a hose pick if the hose is stuck to the radiator neck or engine pipe.
• Twist the hose gently to break it loose, then pull it off.
• Watch for remaining coolant in the hose.

Step 4: Clean the hose fittings

• Use a shop towel to clean the radiator neck and engine pipe.
• Remove old rubber bits, rust, or crusty coolant residue with a hose pick.
• Clean sealing surfaces prevent leaks.

Step 5: Install the new hose

• Compare the new hose to the old one before installation.
• Slide the clamps onto the hose first, then push the hose fully onto the fittings.
• Align the hose exactly the same way as the original.
• Position the clamps over the raised bead on each fitting.
• Use pliers to release the spring clamps into place.
• No torque spec applies to standard spring hose clamps.

Step 6: Refill the cooling system

• Use a funnel to refill with Honda Type 2 coolant.
• Fill the radiator first, then the overflow reservoir to the proper line.
• If the system was drained a lot, fill slowly so air pockets can escape.

Step 7: Bleed air from the system

• Start the engine with the radiator cap off only if the system design and coolant level allow it safely.
• Let the engine idle and watch for coolant level drops.
• Add coolant as needed until the level stays steady.
• Turn the heater to full hot and low fan speed.
• When the radiator fan cycles on and off and no more bubbles appear, reinstall the cap.
• Top off only when the engine is cold.

Step 8: Check for leaks

• Inspect both hose ends for seepage while the engine is warm.
• Shut the engine off and check again after a short drive.
• Recheck coolant level in the radiator and overflow tank after the engine cools fully.

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✅ After Repair

• Drive the car briefly and watch the temperature gauge.
• Check the hose clamps and connections for wet spots.
• Recheck coolant level the next day when the engine is cold.
• If the heater does not blow hot air, air may still be trapped in the system.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$420 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$110 (parts only)

You Save: $145-$310 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.