How to Replace the Power Steering Pump on a 2014-2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Engine: V6 3.6L)
Step-by-step electro-hydraulic pump guide with tools, parts, fluid, torque specs, and bleeding tips for 2014, 2015
How to Replace the Power Steering Pump on a 2014-2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Engine: V6 3.6L)
Step-by-step electro-hydraulic pump guide with tools, parts, fluid, torque specs, and bleeding tips for 2014, 2015
🔧 Grand Cherokee - Power Steering Pump Replacement
Your Grand Cherokee with the 3.6L V6 uses electro-hydraulic power steering, so the “pump” is an electric hydraulic power steering pump assembly, not a belt-driven pump. Replacement involves safely removing the pump/reservoir assembly, transferring or replacing fluid connections, refilling with the correct Mopar hydraulic fluid, and bleeding air from the system.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2.5-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging the electric power steering pump. This pump has high-current electrical wiring.
- ⚠️ Support your Grand Cherokee with jack stands. Never work under a vehicle held only by a jack.
- ⚠️ Power steering fluid can damage paint. Wipe spills immediately.
- ⚠️ Do not start the engine with low or empty power steering fluid. The new pump can be damaged quickly.
- ⚠️ Use only the correct Mopar-approved hydraulic power steering fluid. Do not use ATF unless specified on the reservoir cap or service information for your exact pump.
- ⚠️ A scan tool may be needed to clear steering-related fault codes after repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- Ratchet wrench 3/8-inch drive
- Socket extension 6-inch 3/8-inch drive
- Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive
- Flat-blade screwdriver medium
- Trim clip removal tool
- Line wrench 18mm
- Hose clamp pliers
- Drain pan 2-quart minimum
- Fluid transfer pump
- Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- OBD2 scan tool with steering module access (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Electro-hydraulic power steering pump assembly - Qty: 1
- Power steering fluid meeting Mopar MS-11655 specification - Qty: 2 quarts
- Power steering pressure line sealing washer/O-ring kit - Qty: 1
- Power steering return hose clamp - Qty: 1-2
- Plastic splash shield clips - Qty: As needed
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Grand Cherokee on level ground, shift to Park, and apply the parking brake.
- Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
- Let the engine cool before working near the front lower engine bay.
- Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable and isolate it so it cannot spring back to the terminal.
- A line wrench is a wrench that grips more sides of a fluid fitting than a normal open-end wrench, reducing the chance of rounding it.
- A scan tool with steering module access can read and clear power steering system fault codes after the repair.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise and Support the Front
- Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Grand Cherokee at the proper front jacking point.
- Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the front support points.
- Gently lower the vehicle onto the stands and shake the vehicle lightly to confirm it is stable.
- Never trust the jack alone.
Step 2: Remove the Lower Splash Shield
- Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
- Use a trim clip removal tool to remove plastic push clips from the lower splash shield.
- Use a 10mm socket to remove any lower shield bolts.
- Lower the splash shield and set it aside.
- Reinstall later by tightening the 10mm splash shield bolts snug only, about Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).
Step 3: Locate the Power Steering Pump Assembly
- From underneath the front of your Grand Cherokee, locate the electro-hydraulic power steering pump/reservoir assembly near the front lower area of the vehicle.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver medium to gently move any plastic shields or retainers blocking access.
- Do not pull on the electrical wiring.
Step 4: Drain the Reservoir
- Place a drain pan 2-quart minimum under the pump area.
- Use a fluid transfer pump to remove as much old fluid as possible from the reservoir.
- Keep the drain pan in place because more fluid will drain when the hoses are removed.
- Less mess makes the job easier.
Step 5: Disconnect the Electrical Connector
- Confirm the negative battery cable is disconnected.
- Use your fingers or a flat-blade screwdriver medium to release the connector lock tab.
- Pull the connector straight off the pump. Do not pry on the wiring.
Step 6: Disconnect the Return Hose
- Use hose clamp pliers to compress the return hose clamp.
- Slide the clamp back on the hose.
- Twist the hose gently by hand to break it loose, then pull it off the pump nipple.
- Let fluid drain into the drain pan 2-quart minimum.
Step 7: Disconnect the Pressure Line
- Use an 18mm line wrench to loosen the pressure line fitting at the pump.
- Remove the fitting by hand once it is loose.
- Remove and discard the old sealing washer or O-ring from the line connection.
- Cap or cover the open line end with a clean rag to reduce dirt entry.
- Cleanliness protects the new pump.
Step 8: Remove the Pump Mounting Bolts
- Support the pump with one hand.
- Use a 13mm socket, ratchet wrench 3/8-inch drive, and socket extension 6-inch 3/8-inch drive to remove the pump mounting bolts.
- Some brackets may use 15mm socket bolts depending on bracket position.
- Lower the pump assembly out carefully without snagging the wiring or hoses.
Step 9: Compare the New Pump
- Place the old and new electro-hydraulic power steering pump assembly side by side.
- Confirm the reservoir shape, mounting ears, hose ports, and electrical connector match.
- Transfer any rubber isolators or brackets using a 13mm socket or 15mm socket if required.
Step 10: Install the New Pump
- Lift the new pump into position by hand.
- Start all mounting bolts by hand first to prevent cross-threading.
- Use a 13mm socket or 15mm socket with the torque wrench 3/8-inch drive to tighten the mounting bolts.
- Torque to 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs) unless the replacement pump instructions specify a different value.
Step 11: Reconnect the Pressure Line
- Install the new sealing washer or O-ring from the power steering pressure line sealing washer/O-ring kit.
- Thread the pressure line fitting into the pump by hand.
- Use the 18mm line wrench to tighten the fitting.
- Torque to 30 Nm (22 ft-lbs) if access allows a torque wrench adapter; otherwise tighten firmly without over-tightening.
Step 12: Reconnect the Return Hose
- Push the return hose fully onto the pump nipple by hand.
- Use hose clamp pliers to position the clamp behind the raised bead on the nipple.
- If the original clamp is weak or rusty, install a new power steering return hose clamp.
Step 13: Reconnect the Electrical Connector
- Inspect the connector for fluid or corrosion.
- Push the connector straight onto the pump until it clicks.
- Make sure the wiring is routed away from moving parts and sharp edges.
Step 14: Refill the System
- Remove the reservoir cap.
- Add power steering fluid meeting Mopar MS-11655 specification until the level reaches the proper mark on the reservoir.
- Do not overfill. Air bubbles will make the level change during bleeding.
Step 15: Initial Bleed With Engine Off
- Keep the front wheels lifted off the ground on the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using the 10mm socket.
- Slowly turn the steering wheel from full left to full right 10-15 times with the engine off.
- Check the reservoir level often and add power steering fluid meeting Mopar MS-11655 specification as needed.
- Do not hold the steering wheel against the stop for more than 1 second.
Step 16: Bleed With Engine Running
- Start the engine and let it idle.
- Use your eyes and a flashlight if available to check the pressure line and return hose for leaks.
- Slowly turn the steering wheel left and right several times.
- Stop the engine and recheck the fluid level.
- If the fluid looks foamy, wait 5-10 minutes and repeat the bleeding process.
Step 17: Reinstall the Lower Splash Shield
- Raise the splash shield into place.
- Use the trim clip removal tool by hand to reinstall reusable plastic clips.
- Use the 10mm socket to install the splash shield bolts.
- Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).
Step 18: Lower the Vehicle
- Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
- Lower your Grand Cherokee slowly to the ground.
✅ After Repair
- Use an OBD2 scan tool with steering module access to check for power steering or steering control module fault codes.
- Clear any stored codes after verifying the pump works normally.
- Road test at low speed first. Confirm steering assist is smooth and quiet.
- Recheck the fluid level after the road test and top off if needed.
- Inspect the pump, pressure fitting, and return hose for leaks after the road test.
- If the steering is noisy or jerky, air is still in the system. Repeat the bleed procedure.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $850-$1,450 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $350-$750 (parts only)
You Save: $500-$700 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.0-3.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
















