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2013 Subaru Forester
2011 - 2013 Subaru Forester
Flat 4 2.5L
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Power Steering Pump Fits For 2010 2013 Subaru Forester - Short Review

Power Steering Pump Fits For 2010 2013 Subaru Forester - Short Review

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10mm
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or (7/16")
14mm
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How to Replace the Power Steering Pump on a 2011-2013 Subaru Forester (Engine: Flat 4 2.5L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, bleeding tips, and leak checks for 2011, 2012, 2013

How to Replace the Power Steering Pump on a 2011-2013 Subaru Forester (Engine: Flat 4 2.5L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, bleeding tips, and leak checks for 2011, 2012, 2013

Orion
Orion

🔧 Forester - Power Steering Pump Replacement

This repair replaces the hydraulic power steering pump on your Forester. The pump creates pressure to help turn the steering wheel, and a failing pump can cause whining noise, heavy steering, fluid leaks, or foamy fluid.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Power steering fluid can damage paint, so wipe spills right away with shop towels.
  • ⚠️ Work only with the engine off and cool before removing hoses.
  • ⚠️ Do not start the engine with the pump empty, or the new pump can be damaged.
  • ⚠️ Keep hands, tools, and clothing away from the belt and pulleys when checking for leaks.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair, but keep the key out of the ignition while working.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm wrench
  • 3/8-inch ratchet
  • 3/8-inch drive extension
  • Torque wrench 10-80 ft-lbs
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Pliers
  • Hose pinch-off pliers
  • Drain pan
  • Fluid transfer pump
  • Shop towels
  • Fender cover
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Power steering pump - Qty: 1
  • Power steering pump O-ring seal kit - Qty: 1
  • Power steering fluid or Dexron III/Mercon ATF equivalent - Qty: 1-2 quarts
  • Accessory drive belt - Qty: 1
  • Power steering return hose clamp - Qty: 1-2

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park your Forester on level ground, set the parking brake, and let the engine cool.
  • 🧤 Put on safety glasses and gloves before opening the power steering system.
  • 🧽 Place a fender cover over the left front fender to protect the paint.
  • 🧰 A hose pinch-off plier gently squeezes a rubber hose closed to reduce fluid spills.
  • 💧 Use clean fluid only. Dirt inside the power steering system can damage the new pump.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove Fluid From The Reservoir

  • Use a fluid transfer pump to remove as much old power steering fluid as possible from the reservoir.
  • Direct the old fluid into a drain pan.
  • Use shop towels around the reservoir to catch drips.
  • Less fluid means less mess.

Step 2: Remove The Engine Cover Area Obstructions

  • Use a 10mm socket to remove any small brackets or covers blocking access to the power steering pump.
  • Set the bolts aside in order so they go back in the same places.

Step 3: Loosen The Accessory Belt

  • Use a 12mm socket to loosen the power steering belt adjuster lock bolt.
  • Use a 12mm socket to turn the adjuster bolt counterclockwise until the belt is loose.
  • Remove the belt by hand from the power steering pump pulley.
  • Inspect the belt. If it is cracked, glazed, noisy, or oil-soaked, replace it now.

Step 4: Disconnect The Return Hose

  • Place a drain pan under the pump area.
  • Use hose pinch-off pliers to gently clamp the rubber return hose.
  • Use pliers to slide the spring clamp back from the pump nipple.
  • Use a flat-blade screwdriver gently to break the hose loose if it is stuck.
  • Pull the hose off by hand and aim it into the drain pan.

Step 5: Disconnect The Pressure Hose

  • Use a 17mm wrench to loosen the high-pressure hose fitting at the pump.
  • Remove the fitting carefully so you do not bend the metal line.
  • Remove and discard the old sealing O-ring or washer from the fitting if equipped.
  • Use shop towels to plug or cover the open line ends to keep dirt out.

Step 6: Remove The Power Steering Pump

  • Use a 12mm socket and 14mm socket to remove the pump mounting bolts and adjuster bracket bolts.
  • Support the pump by hand while removing the last bolt.
  • Lift the pump out of the engine bay carefully.
  • Do not spill remaining fluid onto the alternator or belt area.

Step 7: Transfer Parts To The New Pump

  • Compare the old and new pump side by side before installation.
  • If the pulley must be transferred, use the correct 12mm socket or 14mm socket as applicable to remove the pulley fastener.
  • Install new O-rings from the power steering pump O-ring seal kit.
  • Lightly coat new O-rings with fresh power steering fluid before assembly.
  • Never reuse flattened O-rings.

Step 8: Install The New Pump

  • Position the new pump on the bracket by hand.
  • Use a 12mm socket and 14mm socket to install the mounting bolts finger-tight first.
  • Use a torque wrench 10-80 ft-lbs to tighten the pump mounting bolts to Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
  • Make sure the pump sits flat against the bracket before final tightening.

Step 9: Reconnect The Pressure Hose

  • Install the new seal on the pressure hose fitting.
  • Thread the fitting into the pump by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a 17mm wrench to snug the fitting.
  • Use a torque wrench 10-80 ft-lbs with the correct adapter if available and tighten the pressure fitting to Torque to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reconnect The Return Hose

  • Push the return hose fully onto the pump nipple by hand.
  • Use pliers to position the clamp behind the raised bead on the nipple.
  • Remove the hose pinch-off pliers.
  • Replace the clamp if it feels weak or rusty.

Step 11: Reinstall And Tension The Belt

  • Route the accessory belt over the correct pulleys by hand.
  • Use a 12mm socket to turn the adjuster bolt clockwise until the belt is properly tensioned.
  • At the longest belt span, press with your thumb. A used belt should deflect about 7-9 mm, and a new belt should deflect about 5-7 mm.
  • Use a 12mm socket to tighten the adjuster lock bolt.
  • Use a torque wrench 10-80 ft-lbs to tighten the lock bolt to Torque to 18 Nm (13 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Fill The Reservoir

  • Use fresh power steering fluid or Dexron III/Mercon ATF equivalent.
  • Fill the reservoir to the COLD MAX mark.
  • Use shop towels to wipe spilled fluid from the pump, hoses, and belt area.

Step 13: Bleed Air From The System

  • Leave the engine off.
  • Turn the steering wheel slowly from full left to full right 10-15 times.
  • Do not hold the wheel hard against the stop.
  • Check the fluid level and add fluid as needed.
  • Start the engine and let it idle.
  • Use your eyes only to check for leaks around both hose connections.
  • Turn the steering wheel slowly left and right several more times.
  • If the fluid looks foamy, shut the engine off and let the air bubbles settle for 10-15 minutes.

Step 14: Final Leak Check

  • Use a flashlight if available to inspect the pump body, pressure fitting, return hose, and reservoir area.
  • Use shop towels to clean any remaining fluid.
  • Confirm the belt tracks straight on the pulley while the engine idles.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Recheck the power steering fluid level after the first short drive.
  • ✅ Listen for whining noise while turning. A brief noise at first can be trapped air, but it should go away after bleeding.
  • ✅ Check for leaks again after the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
  • ✅ Recheck belt tension after a few days, especially if a new belt was installed.
  • ✅ Properly recycle the old fluid according to local waste rules.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.


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