Howtoo Logo
2012 Subaru Outback
2010 - 2014 Subaru Outback
Flat 6 3.6L

Here is everything needed for this repair

See what I can do

Make Money

With HowToo

OnOff
  • Guides
  • Subaru Outback
  • 2012
  • How to Replace the Power Steering Pump on a 2010-2014 Subaru Outback 3.6L (Engine: Flat 6 3.6L)
Subaru Outback power steering pump replacement

Subaru Outback power steering pump replacement

Suggested Parts

See all parts background
See All Parts

Tools & Fluids

3/8
3/8
Ratchet
1/2
1/2
Ratchet
10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
12mm
12mm
Socket
or (7/16")
14mm
14mm
Socket
or (17/32")
See all parts background
See All Tools

How to Replace the Power Steering Pump on a 2010-2014 Subaru Outback 3.6L (Engine: Flat 6 3.6L)

Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and bleeding procedure for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014

How to Replace the Power Steering Pump on a 2010-2014 Subaru Outback 3.6L (Engine: Flat 6 3.6L)

Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and bleeding procedure for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014

Orion
Orion

🔧 Outback - Power Steering Pump Replacement

Your Outback uses an engine-driven hydraulic power steering pump. Replacing it requires removing the drive belt, disconnecting two fluid lines, transferring the pulley if necessary, and carefully bleeding air from the system.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

Assumption: The replacement pump does not include a pulley.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before working near the radiator and exhaust.
  • ⚠️ Power steering fluid damages paint. Wipe spills up immediately.
  • ⚠️ Never work beneath your Outback when it is supported only by a floor jack.
  • ⚠️ Keep fingers and tools away from the drive belt whenever the engine is running.
  • ⚠️ Do not hold the steering wheel against either stop during bleeding. This can damage the new pump.
  • ⚠️ A battery disconnect is not normally required for this repair.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 1/2-inch drive ratchet
  • 10mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • 14mm combination wrench
  • 17mm combination wrench
  • 6-inch socket extension
  • 3/8-inch drive torque wrench rated 10-80 Nm
  • 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated 30-150 Nm
  • Power steering pulley puller and installer set (specialty)
  • Hose clamp pliers
  • Plastic trim removal tool
  • Fluid transfer syringe rated 500mL
  • Drain pan rated 5-litre minimum
  • Rubber vacuum caps assortment
  • Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
  • Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • Funnel with fine mesh screen
  • Shop towels
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Hydraulic power steering pump for 3.6L engine - Qty: 1
  • Power steering pressure-line sealing washers - Qty: 2
  • Power steering suction-hose O-ring - Qty: 1
  • Dexron III-compatible automatic transmission fluid - Qty: 2 litres
  • Accessory drive belt - Qty: 1 if worn, cracked, or fluid-soaked
  • Power steering reservoir-to-pump hose - Qty: 1 if hardened, swollen, or leaking

📋 Before You Begin

  • 📋 Park your Outback on level, solid ground. Select Park, apply the parking brake, and chock both rear wheels.
  • 📋 Confirm the new pump has the same hose connections and mounting points as the original.
  • 📋 Check whether the new pump includes its pulley. Transfer the original pulley only when the replacement does not include one.
  • 📋 A pulley puller removes a press-fit pulley without bending it. Its installer presses the pulley onto the new shaft without hammering.
  • 📋 No infotainment setting, scan-tool command, coding, or battery registration is required.
  • 📋 Have vacuum caps ready before opening the hoses to reduce fluid loss and contamination.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove Fluid From the Reservoir

  • Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
  • Open the power steering reservoir cap. Use the 500mL fluid transfer syringe to remove as much old fluid as possible.
  • Empty the syringe into the drain pan. Do not reuse the old fluid.

Step 2: Remove the Engine Air Intake Duct

  • Use the plastic trim removal tool to release the intake-duct clips.
  • Use a 10mm socket and ratchet to remove any intake retaining bolts.
  • Lift the duct out without pulling on nearby wiring or vacuum hoses.
  • Photograph the belt routing before removal.

Step 3: Remove the Accessory Drive Belt

  • Locate the automatic belt tensioner at the front of the engine. The tensioner is the spring-loaded arm that keeps the belt tight.
  • Fit a 14mm socket and long ratchet onto the tensioner fastener.
  • Rotate the tensioner slowly to release belt tension. Slide the belt off the power steering pump pulley.
  • Release the tensioner slowly. Never let it snap back.
  • Remove the belt and inspect it for cracks, glazing, missing ribs, or power steering fluid contamination.

Step 4: Disconnect the Reservoir Hose

  • Position the drain pan under the pump.
  • Use hose clamp pliers to move the clamp away from the pump connection.
  • Twist the hose gently by hand, then pull it off the pump inlet. Do not pry against the aluminium pump housing.
  • Close the hose with a rubber vacuum cap.
  • Remove and discard the old inlet O-ring if one is fitted at the pump connection.

Step 5: Disconnect the High-Pressure Line

  • Clean dirt from around the pressure-line connection with shop towels.
  • Use the correctly fitting 17mm socket or 17mm combination wrench to loosen the pressure-line union or banjo bolt.
  • A banjo bolt is a hollow bolt that allows fluid to pass through the hose fitting.
  • Remove the fitting and both sealing washers. Keep the line elevated and cap its open end.
  • Do not bend, twist, or place weight on the rigid section of the pressure line.

Step 6: Remove the Power Steering Pump

  • Use a 14mm socket, 6-inch extension, and ratchet to remove the pump mounting bolts.
  • Support the pump with one hand while removing the final bolt.
  • Lift the pump from its bracket without striking the radiator or pinching the hoses.
  • Keep the mounting bolts arranged by their original locations if their lengths differ.

Step 7: Transfer the Pulley if Required

  • Skip this step if the replacement pump includes the correct pulley already installed.
  • Compare the pulley offset and diameter before transferring it.
  • Fit the power steering pulley puller around the original pulley hub. Do not grip the pulley’s outer rim.
  • Use a 17mm combination wrench and the pulley puller set to draw the pulley straight off the shaft.
  • Use the pulley installer set to press the pulley onto the new pump shaft until its position matches the original pump.
  • Do not hammer the pulley or apply pressure through the pump body.
  • Match pulley alignment before installing the belt.

Step 8: Install the New Pump

  • Place the new pump into its mounting bracket.
  • Start every mounting bolt by hand to prevent cross-threading.
  • Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the pump mounting bolts evenly to 22 Nm (16 ft-lbs).
  • Confirm the pulley is aligned with the other accessory pulleys.

Step 9: Connect the Fluid Lines

  • Lubricate the new suction-hose O-ring with fresh Dexron III-compatible fluid and install it without twisting.
  • Push the reservoir hose fully onto the pump. Use hose clamp pliers to return the clamp to its original position.
  • Install new sealing washers on both sides of the pressure-line banjo fitting when that fitting style is used.
  • Start the pressure fitting by hand. Use the 17mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the banjo bolt to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).
  • If the replacement pump uses a threaded flare fitting rather than a banjo bolt, do not apply the banjo-bolt torque; tighten it to the fitting manufacturer’s specified value.

Step 10: Reinstall the Drive Belt

  • Route the belt around all pulleys according to the under-hood routing label or your reference photograph.
  • Use the 14mm socket and ratchet to rotate the automatic tensioner.
  • Slip the belt over the final smooth pulley, then release the tensioner slowly.
  • Inspect every pulley. Each belt rib must sit fully inside its matching groove.

Step 11: Fill and Bleed the System With the Engine Off

  • Use the floor jack at the front center lifting point to raise your Outback. Position both jack stands at the approved front side support points.
  • Lower the vehicle securely onto the stands so both front tyres are clear of the ground.
  • Use the funnel to fill the reservoir with fresh Dexron III-compatible fluid to the cold-level mark.
  • With the engine off, turn the steering wheel slowly from near one stop to near the other 15-20 times.
  • Check the reservoir every few turns and keep it above the minimum mark. Never allow the reservoir to run dry.
  • Wait several minutes if the fluid becomes foamy. Foam means air remains in the system.

Step 12: Bleed the System With the Engine Running

  • Confirm all tools are clear of the belt and pulleys.
  • Start the engine and let it idle. Do not raise engine speed.
  • Use the funnel to maintain the fluid at the proper level.
  • Turn the steering wheel slowly from side to side several times. Stop just before each steering limit.
  • Switch the engine off if the pump becomes loud or the fluid turns foamy. Wait for the bubbles to clear, then continue.
  • Repeat until the fluid stays clear and the pump operates quietly.

Step 13: Reassemble and Lower the Vehicle

  • Use the 10mm socket and ratchet to reinstall the air-intake retaining bolts. Tighten them only until snug because the duct is plastic.
  • Use the plastic trim removal tool by hand to reinstall the retaining clips.
  • Use the floor jack to raise your Outback slightly, remove both jack stands, and lower it onto the ground.
  • Remove the wheel chocks only after the final inspection.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ With the engine idling, inspect both pump connections for leaks. Keep hands away from the moving belt.
  • ✅ Verify the steering is smooth and quiet while turning in both directions.
  • ✅ Check the fluid at operating temperature and adjust it to the reservoir’s hot-level mark. Do not overfill it.
  • ✅ Take a slow test drive, then inspect the pump, hoses, and fluid level again.
  • ✅ Recheck for leaks and belt alignment after approximately 50 kilometres.
  • ✅ If the fluid remains foamy or the pump whines, stop driving and repeat the bleeding procedure. A leaking suction hose can continually draw air into the system.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹35,000-₹75,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹22,000-₹55,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹10,000-₹25,000 by doing it yourself!

Local independent labor commonly runs ₹800-₹2,000 per hour. Imported US-market pump pricing can vary significantly; this repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.


🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

Parts
Tools
2012 Subaru Outback
Menu
Videos
Earn