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2019 Honda Accord
2018 - 2020 Honda Accord
Inline 4 2.0L

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How to replace Bank 1 sensor 1 aka upstream oxygen sensor on Honda Accord 2018 to 2021

How to replace Bank 1 sensor 1 aka upstream oxygen sensor on Honda Accord 2018 to 2021

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Tools & Fluids

10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
6"
6"
Extension
Oxygen O2 Sensor Socket
Oxygen O2 Sensor Socket
22mm
22mm
22mm
Wrench
or (7/8")
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How to Replace the Oxygen Sensor on a 2018-2020 Honda Accord (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)

Step-by-step O2 sensor guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2018, 2019, 2020

How to Replace the Oxygen Sensor on a 2018-2020 Honda Accord (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)

Step-by-step O2 sensor guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2018, 2019, 2020

Orion
Orion

🔧 Accord - Oxygen Sensor Replacement

This repair replaces a faulty oxygen sensor, also called an air/fuel ratio or O2 sensor. On your Accord Hybrid, oxygen sensor data helps the engine computer adjust fuel mixture and emissions performance.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours

Assumption: This guide covers the common upstream/front air-fuel ratio sensor and downstream/rear oxygen sensor procedure; replace only the sensor identified by your diagnostic trouble code.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool completely before touching it; oxygen sensors thread into very hot exhaust parts.
  • ⚠️ Your Accord is a hybrid. Do not touch orange high-voltage cables or hybrid battery components.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the 12V battery negative terminal before unplugging engine sensors to reduce the chance of short circuits.
  • ⚠️ Support the vehicle only with jack stands if lifting it. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
  • ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves because rust flakes and debris can fall while working under the car.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 3/8-inch ratchet
  • 3/8-inch extension, 6-inch
  • 22mm oxygen sensor socket (specialty)
  • 22mm wrench
  • Torque wrench, 3/8-inch drive
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Floor jack, rated 2-ton minimum
  • Jack stands, rated 2-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Safety glasses
  • OBD-II scan tool

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Upstream air-fuel ratio sensor - Qty: 1, if Bank 1 Sensor 1 is faulty
  • Downstream oxygen sensor - Qty: 1, if Bank 1 Sensor 2 is faulty
  • Anti-seize compound, sensor-safe - Qty: 1 small packet, only if not pre-applied
  • Exhaust heat shield clips - Qty: As needed, if damaged during removal

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Accord on level ground and set the parking brake.
  • Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels before lifting the front.
  • Let the exhaust cool for at least 1 hour if the engine was recently running.
  • Use an OBD-II scan tool, which is a small diagnostic reader that plugs into the car, to confirm the failed sensor location before removal.
  • Bank 1 Sensor 1 means the upstream sensor before the catalytic converter.
  • Bank 1 Sensor 2 means the downstream sensor after the catalytic converter.
  • Disconnect the 12V battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket before unplugging the sensor connector.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Identify the Correct Sensor

  • Use the OBD-II scan tool to read the stored trouble code.
  • If the code points to Bank 1 Sensor 1, replace the upstream air-fuel ratio sensor near the exhaust manifold/front pipe area.
  • If the code points to Bank 1 Sensor 2, replace the downstream oxygen sensor after the catalytic converter under the vehicle.
  • Match the code before buying parts.

Step 2: Disconnect the 12V Battery

  • Open the hood and locate the 12V battery.
  • Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
  • Move the negative cable aside so it cannot spring back onto the battery post.
  • No torque is needed for removal. During installation, tighten the terminal snugly to Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).

Step 3: Lift and Support the Front of the Vehicle

  • Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • Use the floor jack, rated 2-ton minimum, at the front center jacking point.
  • Set jack stands, rated 2-ton minimum, under the proper front support points.
  • Gently lower the vehicle onto the jack stands and shake the car lightly to confirm it is stable.
  • Never trust the jack alone.

Step 4: Remove the Lower Engine Cover if Needed

  • Put on safety glasses and mechanic gloves.
  • Use a flat-blade screwdriver or trim clip removal tool to release any plastic clips.
  • Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove lower cover bolts if equipped.
  • Set the cover and clips aside in order so they go back in the same spots.
  • Reinstall cover bolts later to Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).

Step 5: Unplug the Oxygen Sensor Connector

  • Follow the sensor wire from the exhaust sensor body to its electrical connector.
  • Use your fingers to press the connector lock tab and separate the connector.
  • If the connector is stuck, use a flat-blade screwdriver gently on the lock tab only.
  • Do not pull on the wires. Pull on the plastic connector body.

Step 6: Remove the Old Sensor

  • Slide the 22mm oxygen sensor socket over the wire and onto the sensor hex.
  • An oxygen sensor socket has a slot down the side so it can fit over the sensor wire.
  • Use the 3/8-inch ratchet and 3/8-inch extension, 6-inch, to turn the sensor counterclockwise.
  • If access is tight, use a 22mm wrench instead.
  • Once loose, spin the sensor out by hand while keeping the wire from twisting too much.
  • Work slowly to protect threads.

Step 7: Prepare the New Sensor

  • Compare the new sensor to the old one. The connector, wire length, and threaded tip should match.
  • If the new sensor threads already have anti-seize compound on them, do not add more.
  • If the threads are dry, apply a very small amount of sensor-safe anti-seize compound to the threads only.
  • Keep anti-seize off the sensor tip. The tip is the small end that sits inside the exhaust stream.

Step 8: Install the New Sensor

  • Thread the new sensor into the exhaust by hand first.
  • If it does not turn easily by hand, stop and realign it to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use the 22mm oxygen sensor socket and torque wrench to tighten the sensor.
  • Tighten to Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs).
  • Hand-start every threaded part.

Step 9: Route and Connect the Sensor Wire

  • Route the sensor wire the same way the old one was routed.
  • Keep the wire away from the exhaust pipe, steering parts, and moving suspension parts.
  • Use your hands to snap the connector together until it clicks.
  • Use the flat-blade screwdriver only if needed to help seat a retaining clip.

Step 10: Reinstall the Lower Cover

  • Position the lower engine cover back into place.
  • Use the trim clip removal tool or your fingers to reinstall the plastic clips.
  • Use the 10mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to install cover bolts.
  • Tighten cover bolts to Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).

Step 11: Lower the Vehicle and Reconnect the Battery

  • Use the floor jack to raise the front slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands, then lower the vehicle carefully.
  • Use the 10mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to reconnect the negative battery terminal.
  • Tighten the terminal to Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).

Step 12: Clear Codes and Verify Repair

  • Plug in the OBD-II scan tool.
  • Use the scan tool to clear diagnostic trouble codes.
  • Start your Accord and let it idle.
  • Check that no exhaust leak noise is coming from the sensor area.
  • Take a short drive and recheck for pending codes with the OBD-II scan tool.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Confirm the check engine light stays off after a full warm-up drive.
  • ✅ Recheck the sensor wire routing after the first drive to make sure it did not move near the exhaust.
  • ✅ If the same code returns, inspect wiring, connector pins, exhaust leaks, and related fuel-trim data before replacing more parts.
  • ✅ Some emissions monitors need several drive cycles before showing “ready” on the scan tool.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$650 per sensor, parts + labor

DIY Cost: $80-$280 per sensor, parts only

You Save: $170-$370 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.5 hours.


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