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2019 Ford F-150
2015 - 2020 Ford F-150
V6 2.7L

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How to Replace Upstream O2 Oxygen Sensors 2015-2020 Ford F-150 3.5L V6

How to Replace Upstream O2 Oxygen Sensors 2015-2020 Ford F-150 3.5L V6

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

Oxygen O2 Sensor Socket
Oxygen O2 Sensor Socket
7/8"
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
6"
6"
Extension
10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
3/8
3/8
Torque Wrench
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How to Replace the Oxygen Sensor on a 2015-2020 Ford F-150 (Engine: V6 2.7L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with sensor locations, tools, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

How to Replace the Oxygen Sensor on a 2015-2020 Ford F-150 (Engine: V6 2.7L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with sensor locations, tools, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

Orion
Orion

๐Ÿ”ง F-150 - Oxygen Sensor Replacement

Replacing an oxygen sensor on your F-150 means removing the failed sensor from the exhaust pipe and installing a matching new one in the same position. Your F-150 has multiple oxygen sensors, so use the check engine light code to replace the correct one.

Difficulty Level: Beginner to Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours

Assumption: This procedure covers replacing one oxygen sensor at the location identified by a scan tool code.


โš ๏ธ Safety & Precautions

  • โš ๏ธ Let the exhaust cool completely before starting. Oxygen sensors screw into the exhaust and can be extremely hot.
  • โš ๏ธ If you raise your F-150, support it with jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
  • โš ๏ธ Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging the sensor connector.
  • โš ๏ธ Do not pull on oxygen sensor wires. Pull only on the plastic connector.
  • โš ๏ธ Keep the new sensor wire away from the exhaust, driveshaft, steering shaft, and sharp edges.

๐Ÿ”ง Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 7/8 inch oxygen sensor socket
  • 3/8 inch drive ratchet
  • 3/8 inch drive 6 inch extension
  • 10mm socket
  • Torque wrench rated 10-80 Nm
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
  • Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • Penetrating oil
  • OBD-II scan tool
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves

An oxygen sensor socket is a slotted socket that fits over the sensor while allowing the wire to pass through the side.

An OBD-II scan tool plugs into the diagnostic port and reads or clears check engine light codes.


๐Ÿ”ฉ Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Oxygen sensor - Qty: 1
  • Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1 small packet, if not pre-applied

Sensor location note: On your F-150, Bank 1 is the passenger side and Bank 2 is the driver side. Sensor 1 is before the catalytic converter, and Sensor 2 is after the catalytic converter.


๐Ÿ“‹ Before You Begin

  • ๐Ÿ…ฟ๏ธ Park your F-150 on level ground, shift to Park, and apply the parking brake.
  • ๐ŸงŠ Allow the exhaust system to cool fully.
  • ๐Ÿ›ž Place wheel chocks at the wheels that stay on the ground.
  • ๐Ÿ” Use the OBD-II scan tool to identify the failed sensor location before removing anything.
  • ๐Ÿ”‹ Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.

๐Ÿ”จ Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm the Failed Sensor

  • Use the OBD-II scan tool and plug it into the diagnostic port under the driver-side dash.
  • Read the engine code and write down the exact sensor location, such as Bank 1 Sensor 1 or Bank 2 Sensor 2.
  • Do not replace a random sensor. Your F-150 uses more than one oxygen sensor.

Step 2: Secure the Truck

  • Use wheel chocks to block the wheels.
  • If you need more room, raise the truck with a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum.
  • Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the frame.
  • Gently lower the truck onto the jack stands before getting underneath.
  • Shake the truck lightly to verify stability.

Step 3: Disconnect the Battery

  • Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
  • Move the negative cable away from the battery post so it cannot touch accidentally.

Step 4: Locate the Oxygen Sensor

  • Wear safety glasses and mechanic gloves.
  • Use the code location to find the correct sensor:
    • Bank 1 Sensor 1: passenger side, before the catalytic converter.
    • Bank 1 Sensor 2: passenger side, after the catalytic converter.
    • Bank 2 Sensor 1: driver side, before the catalytic converter.
    • Bank 2 Sensor 2: driver side, after the catalytic converter.
  • Follow the sensor wire from the exhaust pipe to the electrical connector.

Step 5: Unplug the Sensor Connector

  • Use a flat-blade screwdriver to gently lift the connector lock tab if needed.
  • Use a trim clip removal tool to release any harness clips from brackets.
  • Pull the connector apart by the plastic bodies, not by the wires.
  • Take a photo of the wire routing first.

Step 6: Loosen the Old Sensor

  • Spray penetrating oil where the sensor threads into the exhaust.
  • Wait several minutes so the oil can soak into the threads.
  • Place the 7/8 inch oxygen sensor socket over the sensor with the wire through the socket slot.
  • Use a 3/8 inch drive ratchet and 3/8 inch drive 6 inch extension to turn the sensor counterclockwise.
  • If it feels stuck, tighten it slightly, then loosen it again to work the threads free.

Step 7: Remove the Old Sensor

  • Use the 7/8 inch oxygen sensor socket to unthread the sensor fully.
  • Remove it by hand once it spins easily.
  • Compare the old and new oxygen sensors. The connector and wire length must match.

Step 8: Prepare the New Sensor

  • Look at the new sensor threads.
  • If the threads already have a gray or silver coating, do not add more anti-seize.
  • If the threads are bare, apply a tiny amount of anti-seize compound only to the threads.
  • Keep anti-seize off the sensor tip.

Step 9: Install the New Sensor

  • Thread the new oxygen sensor into the exhaust by hand first.
  • Use the 7/8 inch oxygen sensor socket, 3/8 inch drive 6 inch extension, and torque wrench rated 10-80 Nm to tighten it.
  • Torque to 48 Nm (35 ft-lbs).
  • Hand-starting prevents damaged threads.

Step 10: Reconnect the Sensor Harness

  • Route the wire the same way it was before removal.
  • Use the trim clip removal tool if needed to help seat the wire clips into their brackets.
  • Push the connector together until it clicks.
  • Make sure the wire cannot touch the hot exhaust.

Step 11: Reconnect the Battery

  • Place the negative battery cable back on the battery post.
  • Use a 10mm socket to tighten the terminal clamp snugly.
  • Do not overtighten the clamp.

Step 12: Lower the Truck

  • If raised, use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the truck slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
  • Lower the truck slowly with the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum.
  • Remove the wheel chocks.

Step 13: Clear the Code

  • Use the OBD-II scan tool to clear the check engine light code.
  • Start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes.
  • Check that the engine runs smoothly and the check engine light does not return immediately.

โœ… After Repair

  • โœ… Drive your F-150 until it reaches normal operating temperature.
  • โœ… Recheck for codes with the OBD-II scan tool after the test drive.
  • โœ… Inspect the new sensor wire and make sure it is clipped away from heat and moving parts.
  • โœ… If the same code comes back, check for wiring damage, exhaust leaks, fuel trim issues, or catalytic converter problems.

๐Ÿ’ฐ DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$550 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)

You Save: $190-$370 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.5 hours.


๐ŸŽฏ Ready to get started?

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