🔧 Tucson - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

This repair replaces a worn outer tie rod end, which connects the steering rack to the steering knuckle and helps point the front wheels. A bad tie rod end can cause clunking, loose steering, uneven tire wear, or poor alignment.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours per side

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always support your Tucson with jack stands before working under or beside the vehicle.
• ⚠️ Do not rely on a floor jack alone; it can fail or roll.
• ⚠️ The steering wheel must stay centered as much as possible during the repair.
• ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after replacing a tie rod end.
• ⚠️ Replace tie rod ends in pairs if both sides show wear or the boots are cracked.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm lug nut socket
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Ratchet 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• 17mm wrench
• 19mm socket
• 19mm wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Penetrating oil
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1 per side
• Outer tie rod end castle nut - Qty: 1 per side
• Cotter pin - Qty: 1 per side
• Wheel alignment service - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Tucson on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Center the steering wheel before lifting the vehicle.
• Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end jam nut and ball stud nut, then let it soak for 5-10 minutes.
• A jam nut is the lock nut on the inner tie rod that holds the outer tie rod end in place.
• A cotter pin is a small bent safety pin that keeps the castle nut from loosening.
• A tie rod end puller is a tool that safely separates the tie rod ball joint from the steering knuckle.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about 1/2 turn.
• Do this while the tire is still touching the ground so the wheel does not spin.
• Do not remove lug nuts yet.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front of the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front of your Tucson at the front center jacking point or the correct side pinch weld.
• Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the approved front support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Use safety glasses and mechanic gloves before continuing.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel

• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove the wheel and place it flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Mark the Tie Rod Position

• Use a wire brush to clean the exposed threads near the outer tie rod end.
• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the jam nut on the inner tie rod threads.
• Use a tape measure to measure from the jam nut to the center of the tie rod ball stud, then write that measurement down.
• This helps keep the alignment close enough to drive to an alignment shop.
• Counting turns helps prevent major toe change.

Step 5: Loosen the Jam Nut

• Use a 19mm wrench on the jam nut.
• Hold the outer tie rod end steady with a 17mm wrench if it wants to rotate.
• Turn the jam nut loose about 1/4 turn only.
• Do not move it far from your paint mark.

Step 6: Remove the Cotter Pin

• Use needle-nose pliers to straighten the bent ends of the cotter pin at the tie rod end stud.
• Pull the cotter pin out of the castle nut.
• If it breaks from rust, remove as much of it as possible with the needle-nose pliers.

Step 7: Remove the Tie Rod End Nut

• Use a 19mm socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to remove the castle nut from the tie rod end stud.
• If the stud spins, apply light upward pressure under the tie rod end with the tie rod end puller, then loosen the nut again with the 19mm socket.

Step 8: Separate the Tie Rod End from the Steering Knuckle

• Install the tie rod end puller over the tie rod end and steering knuckle connection.
• Tighten the puller with the correct drive on your ratchet 1/2-inch drive until the tie rod end pops free.
• A loud pop is normal when the tapered stud releases.
• Do not hammer directly on the threaded stud.

Step 9: Remove the Old Outer Tie Rod End

• Turn the old outer tie rod end counterclockwise by hand to unscrew it from the inner tie rod.
• Count the exact number of turns as it comes off.
• Write down the turn count.
• Use a 17mm wrench if the tie rod end is stiff.

Step 10: Install the New Outer Tie Rod End

• Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod by hand.
• Install it the same number of turns you counted during removal.
• Stop when it reaches your paint mark and your recorded measurement is close.
• Use a tape measure to double-check the distance from the jam nut to the center of the ball stud.

Step 11: Attach the Tie Rod End to the Steering Knuckle

• Insert the new tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
• Install the new castle nut.
• Use a 19mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the tie rod end nut to Torque to 34-44 Nm (25-33 ft-lbs).
• If the cotter pin hole does not line up, tighten the nut slightly more until it lines up.
• Never loosen the nut to line up the cotter pin hole.

Step 12: Install the New Cotter Pin

• Slide the new cotter pin through the hole in the tie rod end stud.
• Use needle-nose pliers to bend both ends around the castle nut.
• Make sure the cotter pin cannot fall out.

Step 13: Tighten the Jam Nut

• Hold the new outer tie rod end steady with a 17mm wrench.
• Use a 19mm wrench to tighten the jam nut against the outer tie rod end.
• Torque the jam nut to Torque to 50-55 Nm (37-41 ft-lbs) if you can fit the torque wrench 1/2-inch drive with an appropriate wrench adapter.
• If you cannot fit a torque wrench, tighten it firmly and schedule alignment right away.

Step 14: Reinstall the Front Wheel

• Place the wheel back on the hub.
• Hand-thread all lug nuts first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 15: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
• Lower the vehicle until the tire touches the ground.
• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 107-127 Nm (79-94 ft-lbs).

---

✅ After Repair

• ✅ Turn the steering wheel left and right while parked to make sure nothing binds or rubs.
• ✅ Test-drive slowly at first and listen for clunks or looseness.
• ✅ Keep speed low until the alignment is completed.
• ✅ Get a professional four-wheel alignment as soon as possible after replacing the tie rod end.
• ✅ Recheck the jam nut and cotter pin after the first short drive.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 per side before alignment

DIY Cost: $35-$90 per side for parts only

You Save: $145-$260 per side by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.3 hours per side.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.