How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2018 Ford Explorer
Step-by-step instructions with tools, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment guidance for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2018 Ford Explorer
Step-by-step instructions with tools, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment guidance for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Tie Rod End - Replacement
The outer tie rod end connects the steering rack to the front wheel knuckle. Replacing it restores steering feel and helps fix looseness, clunks, or uneven tire wear. An alignment is required after this repair.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Work on level ground and chock the rear wheels.
- Use jack stands. Do not rely on the floor jack alone.
- Keep hands clear of the steering knuckle while separating the tie rod end.
- An alignment is required after installation.
- No battery disconnect is required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Breaker bar
- 19mm socket
- 18mm socket
- Torque wrench
- Open-end wrench set
- Tie rod end puller (specialty)
- Pliers
- Paint marker
- Measuring tape
- Penetrating oil
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
- Outer tie rod end jam nut - Qty: 1
- Cotter pin - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
- Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end nut and jam nut if they are rusty.
- Mark the current tie rod length with a paint marker so the new part starts close to the old setting.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel
- Use a floor jack to raise the front of the Explorer.
- Support it securely with jack stands.
- Remove the wheel with a 19mm socket.
Step 2: Mark the tie rod length
- Use a paint marker to mark the jam nut position on the inner tie rod.
- Measure the exposed threads with a measuring tape.
- Keep the new part close to this starting length.
Step 3: Remove the cotter pin and castle nut
- Use pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod stud.
- Use an 18mm socket to remove the castle nut.
- Leave the nut threaded on a few turns if the stud is stuck.
Step 4: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle
- Use a tie rod end puller (specialty) to pop the stud out of the knuckle.
- If needed, tap the knuckle lightly while the nut is still on the stud.
- Do not hammer directly on the stud threads.
Step 5: Remove the old tie rod end
- Use an open-end wrench to loosen the jam nut.
- Count the turns as you unscrew the old tie rod end from the inner tie rod.
- This helps keep the toe setting closer to normal for the drive to the alignment shop.
Step 6: Install the new tie rod end
- Thread the new tie rod end onto the inner tie rod the same number of turns you counted.
- Snug the jam nut with an open-end wrench.
- Insert the stud into the steering knuckle.
Step 7: Torque the fasteners
- Install the new castle nut and tighten it with an 18mm socket.
- Torque to 52 Nm (38 ft-lbs), then tighten slightly more only if needed to align the cotter pin hole.
- Install a new cotter pin with pliers.
- Torque the jam nut to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs) with an open-end wrench and torque wrench.
Step 8: Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle
- Reinstall the wheel with a 19mm socket.
- Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) in a crisscross pattern.
- Lower the Explorer and remove the jack stands.
✅ After Repair
- Start the vehicle and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to confirm smooth movement.
- Check that the steering wheel is centered during a short road test.
- Schedule a front-end alignment as soon as possible.
- Inspect the tie rod end again after the first drive for any looseness.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $35-$90 (parts only)
You Save: $145-$260 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.











