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2018 Ford Explorer
2011 - 2019 Ford Explorer
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How To Replace 2011-2019 Ford Explorer Tie Rod End

How To Replace 2011-2019 Ford Explorer Tie Rod End

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
15mm
15mm
Socket
or (9/16")
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How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2018 Ford Explorer

Step-by-step instructions with tools, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment guidance for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2018 Ford Explorer

Step-by-step instructions with tools, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment guidance for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

Orion
Orion

🔧 Tie Rod End - Replacement

This procedure covers replacing the outer tie rod end on your Explorer. The tie rod end connects the steering rack to the steering knuckle, so replacing it correctly is important for safe steering and tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • Work on one side at a time so you can compare the new part to the old one.
  • Support the vehicle securely with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
  • Keep hands clear of the steering knuckle and suspension while separating the joint.
  • After replacement, you must get a wheel alignment. A toe misadjustment can cause poor handling and rapid tire wear.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands
  • Wheel chocks
  • 21mm lug wrench
  • 15mm socket
  • 18mm wrench
  • 19mm wrench
  • Tie rod end puller (specialty)
  • Pry bar
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Torque wrench
  • Safety glasses
  • Work gloves
  • Paint marker

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
  • Outer tie rod end cotter pin - Qty: 1
  • Front wheel alignment service - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
  • Loosen the front wheel lug nuts before lifting the vehicle.
  • Mark the old tie rod end position with a paint marker to help keep alignment close enough to drive to the shop.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and secure the front of the vehicle

  • Use a floor jack to lift the front of the Explorer.
  • Place jack stands under the proper lift points and lower the vehicle onto them.
  • Remove the front wheel with a 21mm lug wrench.

Step 2: Measure and mark the old tie rod end

  • Use a paint marker to mark the position of the outer tie rod end on the inner tie rod.
  • This helps keep the toe setting close enough to drive for alignment.
  • Count the exposed threads if possible.

Step 3: Remove the cotter pin and castle nut

  • Use needle-nose pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod stud.
  • Use an 18mm wrench or socket to remove the castle nut from the stud.

Step 4: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

  • Use a tie rod end puller (specialty) to press the stud out of the steering knuckle.
  • If needed, use a pry bar carefully to help free the joint.
  • Do not hammer the steering rack boot.

Step 5: Remove the outer tie rod end

  • Use a 19mm wrench to loosen the jam nut on the inner tie rod.
  • Count the turns as you unscrew the old tie rod end from the inner tie rod.
  • Install the new part with the same number of turns as a starting point.

Step 6: Install the new tie rod end

  • Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod by hand first.
  • Match the original thread count as closely as possible.
  • Insert the stud into the steering knuckle.
  • Install the new castle nut and tighten with an 18mm wrench.
  • Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Secure the jam nut

  • Use a 19mm wrench to tighten the jam nut against the tie rod end.
  • Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs).
  • Install the new cotter pin through the castle nut and stud.
  • Bend the cotter pin ends with needle-nose pliers.

Step 8: Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle

  • Reinstall the wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
  • Lower the Explorer with the floor jack.
  • Torque the lug nuts with a torque wrench to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) in a star pattern.

✅ After Repair

  • Check that the steering wheel turns smoothly from lock to lock.
  • Drive slowly at first and listen for clunks or looseness.
  • Get a front wheel alignment as soon as possible.
  • If the steering wheel is off-center, the alignment shop will correct it.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$320 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$90 (parts only)

You Save: $145-$230 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.


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