🔧 Kicks - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

This repair replaces a worn outer tie rod end, which connects the steering rack to the front wheel knuckle and helps point the wheel left or right. A bad tie rod end can cause loose steering, clunking, uneven tire wear, or a failed alignment.

Difficulty Level: Beginner to Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours per side

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Kicks with jack stands before working under or beside the vehicle. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Do not hammer directly on the threaded tie rod stud. This can damage the threads and make removal unsafe.
• ⚠️ Count the turns when removing the old tie rod end. This helps keep the alignment close enough to drive to an alignment shop.
• ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after this repair. The toe angle changes when the tie rod end is removed.
• ⚠️ Replace the cotter pin with a new one. Do not reuse the old cotter pin.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 21mm lug nut socket
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Needle-nose pliers
• 19mm wrench
• 22mm wrench
• 18mm socket
• Ratchet wrench 3/8-inch drive
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Penetrating oil
• Small wire brush
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1 per side
• New cotter pin - Qty: 1 per side
• New tie rod end castle nut - Qty: 1 per side
• Wheel alignment service - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Kicks on level ground and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🛞 Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
• 📏 If replacing only one side, measure the distance from the front tire edge to a fixed body point and write it down. This is only a rough reference, not a replacement for alignment.
• 🖊️ Use a paint marker to mark the tie rod threads before disassembly. This helps install the new part in a similar position.
• 🔧 A tie rod end puller is a tool that presses the tie rod stud out of the steering knuckle without damaging the knuckle.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front lug nuts about half a turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Break them loose on the ground.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front of Your Kicks

• Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum at the front jacking point to lift the vehicle.
• Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the proper front support points.
• Gently lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
• Shake the vehicle lightly by hand to confirm it is stable before removing the wheel.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel

• Use the 21mm lug nut socket to remove the lug nuts fully.
• Remove the wheel and place it flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Clean and Mark the Tie Rod Threads

• Use a small wire brush to clean the exposed threads where the outer tie rod end meets the inner tie rod.
• Spray the area lightly with penetrating oil.
• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the tie rod end and jam nut.
• The jam nut is the nut behind the tie rod end that locks its adjustment in place.

Step 5: Loosen the Jam Nut

• Use a 22mm wrench on the jam nut.
• Use a 19mm wrench on the flat area of the tie rod end if needed to keep it from turning.
• Loosen the jam nut about one turn only.
• Do not move it far from your paint mark.
• Small movement helps preserve alignment.

Step 6: Remove the Cotter Pin

• Use needle-nose pliers to straighten and pull out the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud.
• The cotter pin is the small bent safety pin that prevents the nut from loosening.
• Discard the old cotter pin.

Step 7: Remove the Tie Rod End Nut

• Use an 18mm socket and ratchet wrench 3/8-inch drive to remove the castle nut from the tie rod end stud.
• A castle nut has slots on top so the cotter pin can pass through it.
• If the stud spins, lightly press upward on the tie rod end with the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum while loosening the nut.

Step 8: Separate the Tie Rod End from the Steering Knuckle

• Install the tie rod end puller (specialty) over the tie rod end and steering knuckle connection.
• Tighten the puller with the correct wrench from the puller kit until the stud pops free.
• Do not strike the aluminum or steel steering knuckle directly with a hammer.
• The pop sound is normal.

Step 9: Count Turns and Remove the Old Tie Rod End

• Turn the old tie rod end counterclockwise by hand or with a 19mm wrench.
• Count the exact number of full turns it takes to remove it.
• Write the number down immediately.
• Example: if it takes 17 turns to remove, install the new one about 17 turns.

Step 10: Install the New Outer Tie Rod End

• Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod by hand.
• Use the same number of turns counted during removal.
• Align it close to your paint mark.
• Use a 19mm wrench only if needed, but do not force the threads.
• If it does not thread smoothly, remove it and check for cross-threading.

Step 11: Install the Tie Rod Stud into the Steering Knuckle

• Insert the new tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
• Install the new castle nut by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use an 18mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the tie rod end nut.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
• If the cotter pin hole does not line up, tighten the nut slightly more until the hole lines up. Do not loosen the nut to align the cotter pin hole.

Step 12: Install the New Cotter Pin

• Slide the new cotter pin through the stud hole and castle nut slots.
• Use needle-nose pliers to bend the cotter pin ends around the nut.
• Make sure the cotter pin cannot fall out.

Step 13: Tighten the Jam Nut

• Hold the tie rod end steady with a 19mm wrench.
• Use a 22mm wrench to tighten the jam nut against the outer tie rod end.
• Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs) if your torque wrench and crowfoot adapter setup allows accurate tightening.
• If using regular wrenches, tighten it firmly without moving the tie rod end position.

Step 14: Reinstall the Wheel

• Place the wheel back onto the hub.
• Install the lug nuts by hand first.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 15: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to raise the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
• Lower your Kicks fully to the ground.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Turn the steering wheel fully left and right while parked. Listen for binding, popping, or rubbing.
• ✅ Test drive slowly in a safe area. The steering wheel may be slightly off-center until alignment is done.
• ✅ Schedule a professional wheel alignment as soon as possible. Ask for front toe adjustment.
• ✅ Recheck that the cotter pin is installed and the jam nut is tight after the short test drive.
• ✅ If both outer tie rod ends are worn, replace them in pairs before alignment.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$420 per side including parts, labor, and alignment

DIY Cost: $35-$90 per side for the tie rod end, plus alignment

You Save: $120-$250 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours per side plus alignment time.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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