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2017 Hyundai Tucson
2016 - 2021 Hyundai Tucson

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tie rod end replacement ... hyundai tucson 2016-2021 #suspensionsystem #alifix

tie rod end replacement ... hyundai tucson 2016-2021 #suspensionsystem #alifix

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2017 Hyundai Tucson

Step-by-step steering repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021

How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2017 Hyundai Tucson

Step-by-step steering repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021

Orion
Orion

🔧 Tucson - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

This repair replaces a worn outer tie rod end, which connects the steering rack to the steering knuckle and helps turn the front wheels. A bad tie rod end can cause loose steering, clunking, uneven tire wear, or poor alignment.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours per side


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface and support your Tucson with jack stands before going under or near the vehicle.
  • ⚠️ Do not rely on a floor jack alone. A floor jack lifts the vehicle; jack stands hold it safely.
  • ⚠️ The steering and suspension parts may be tight or rusty. Use controlled force so tools do not slip.
  • ⚠️ After replacing a tie rod end, your Tucson needs a professional wheel alignment before normal driving.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 21mm lug nut socket
  • Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
  • Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
  • 17mm wrench
  • 19mm wrench
  • 22mm wrench
  • 17mm socket
  • 19mm socket
  • Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Outer tie rod end puller (specialty)
  • Paint marker
  • Tape measure
  • Penetrating oil
  • Wire brush
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1 per side
  • Outer tie rod end cotter pin - Qty: 1 per side
  • Outer tie rod end castle nut - Qty: 1 per side
  • Front wheel alignment service - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Tucson on level ground with the transmission in Park.
  • Apply the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • Keep the steering wheel straight before lifting the front of the vehicle.
  • Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod jam nut and outer tie rod end nut, then let it soak for 5-10 minutes.
  • A jam nut is the locking nut on the inner tie rod that holds the outer tie rod end in position.
  • A castle nut is a slotted nut that uses a cotter pin to keep it from loosening.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel

  • Use the 21mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about 1/2 turn.
  • Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
  • Break lug nuts loose before lifting.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front

  • Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of your Tucson at the front center subframe lift point.
  • Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front side pinch welds or approved front support points.
  • Slowly lower the vehicle onto the jack stands and gently shake the vehicle to confirm it is stable.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel

  • Use the 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the loosened lug nuts.
  • Remove the wheel and set it flat under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Mark and Measure the Tie Rod Position

  • Use the paint marker to mark the threads where the outer tie rod end meets the jam nut.
  • Use the tape measure to measure from the center of the outer tie rod end stud to a fixed point on the inner tie rod.
  • Write the measurement down before removing the part.
  • This helps keep the toe setting close enough to drive slowly to an alignment shop.

Step 5: Loosen the Jam Nut

  • Use the wire brush to clean the exposed threads near the jam nut.
  • Use the 22mm wrench on the jam nut and a 19mm wrench on the outer tie rod end flats if needed.
  • Turn the jam nut loose about 1/4 turn, but do not move it far from your paint mark.
  • Hold the tie rod steady while loosening.

Step 6: Remove the Cotter Pin and Castle Nut

  • Use needle-nose pliers to straighten and pull out the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud.
  • Use the 17mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the castle nut from the tie rod end stud.
  • If the nut is stuck, apply penetrating oil and let it soak again.

Step 7: Separate the Tie Rod End from the Steering Knuckle

  • Install the outer tie rod end puller (specialty) over the tie rod end stud and steering knuckle.
  • Tighten the puller with the correct wrench or socket from the tool kit until the stud pops free.
  • A tie rod end puller presses the tapered stud out without damaging the steering knuckle.
  • Do not hammer directly on the threaded stud if you plan to compare or reuse anything.

Step 8: Count Turns and Remove the Old Tie Rod End

  • Use your hand or a 19mm wrench to unscrew the old outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod.
  • Count the exact number of turns it takes to remove it.
  • Write the number down.
  • Counting turns helps preserve alignment.

Step 9: Install the New Tie Rod End

  • Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod by hand using the same number of turns counted during removal.
  • Use the paint marker and tape measure to compare the new position to your original measurement.
  • Adjust slightly by hand if needed so the new tie rod end sits close to the original location.

Step 10: Attach the Tie Rod End to the Steering Knuckle

  • Insert the new tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
  • Install the new castle nut by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use the 17mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the tie rod end nut to Torque to 34-44 Nm (25-32 ft-lbs).
  • If the cotter pin hole does not line up, tighten the castle nut slightly more until it lines up. Do not loosen it to align the hole.
  • Install the new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers, then bend the ends around the nut.

Step 11: Tighten the Jam Nut

  • Use the 22mm wrench on the jam nut and the 19mm wrench on the tie rod end flats if needed.
  • Tighten the jam nut firmly against the outer tie rod end.
  • Use the torque wrench 1/2-inch drive with a crowfoot wrench if available and tighten the jam nut to Torque to 50-60 Nm (37-44 ft-lbs).
  • If you do not have a crowfoot wrench, tighten it securely with the wrench and have the alignment shop verify it.

Step 12: Reinstall the Wheel

  • Place the wheel back on the hub by hand.
  • Install the lug nuts by hand first.
  • Use the 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 13: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

  • Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Lower your Tucson until the tire touches the ground fully.
  • Use the 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 107-127 Nm (79-94 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Turn the steering wheel left and right while parked to check for binding or unusual noises.
  • ✅ Test drive slowly at first. If the steering wheel is off-center or the vehicle pulls, stop normal driving and go directly for alignment.
  • ✅ Schedule a professional front wheel alignment immediately after tie rod end replacement.
  • ✅ Recheck the cotter pin, castle nut, jam nut, and lug nut torque after the first short drive.
  • ✅ If both sides are worn, replace both outer tie rod ends in pairs for best steering feel and tire wear.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$450 per side including parts, labor, and alignment-related handling

DIY Cost: $35-$95 per side for parts only, plus alignment

You Save: $120-$300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.5 hours per side.


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