How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2017 Hyundai Tucson
Step-by-step steering repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021
How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2017 Hyundai Tucson
Step-by-step steering repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021
🔧 Tucson - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement
This repair replaces a worn outer tie rod end, which connects the steering rack to the steering knuckle and helps turn the front wheels. A bad tie rod end can cause loose steering, clunking, uneven tire wear, or poor alignment.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours per side
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface and support your Tucson with jack stands before going under or near the vehicle.
- ⚠️ Do not rely on a floor jack alone. A floor jack lifts the vehicle; jack stands hold it safely.
- ⚠️ The steering and suspension parts may be tight or rusty. Use controlled force so tools do not slip.
- ⚠️ After replacing a tie rod end, your Tucson needs a professional wheel alignment before normal driving.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 21mm lug nut socket
- Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
- Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
- 17mm wrench
- 19mm wrench
- 22mm wrench
- 17mm socket
- 19mm socket
- Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
- Needle-nose pliers
- Outer tie rod end puller (specialty)
- Paint marker
- Tape measure
- Penetrating oil
- Wire brush
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1 per side
- Outer tie rod end cotter pin - Qty: 1 per side
- Outer tie rod end castle nut - Qty: 1 per side
- Front wheel alignment service - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Tucson on level ground with the transmission in Park.
- Apply the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Keep the steering wheel straight before lifting the front of the vehicle.
- Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod jam nut and outer tie rod end nut, then let it soak for 5-10 minutes.
- A jam nut is the locking nut on the inner tie rod that holds the outer tie rod end in position.
- A castle nut is a slotted nut that uses a cotter pin to keep it from loosening.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel
- Use the 21mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about 1/2 turn.
- Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
- Break lug nuts loose before lifting.
Step 2: Lift and Support the Front
- Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of your Tucson at the front center subframe lift point.
- Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front side pinch welds or approved front support points.
- Slowly lower the vehicle onto the jack stands and gently shake the vehicle to confirm it is stable.
Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel
- Use the 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the loosened lug nuts.
- Remove the wheel and set it flat under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.
Step 4: Mark and Measure the Tie Rod Position
- Use the paint marker to mark the threads where the outer tie rod end meets the jam nut.
- Use the tape measure to measure from the center of the outer tie rod end stud to a fixed point on the inner tie rod.
- Write the measurement down before removing the part.
- This helps keep the toe setting close enough to drive slowly to an alignment shop.
Step 5: Loosen the Jam Nut
- Use the wire brush to clean the exposed threads near the jam nut.
- Use the 22mm wrench on the jam nut and a 19mm wrench on the outer tie rod end flats if needed.
- Turn the jam nut loose about 1/4 turn, but do not move it far from your paint mark.
- Hold the tie rod steady while loosening.
Step 6: Remove the Cotter Pin and Castle Nut
- Use needle-nose pliers to straighten and pull out the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud.
- Use the 17mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the castle nut from the tie rod end stud.
- If the nut is stuck, apply penetrating oil and let it soak again.
Step 7: Separate the Tie Rod End from the Steering Knuckle
- Install the outer tie rod end puller (specialty) over the tie rod end stud and steering knuckle.
- Tighten the puller with the correct wrench or socket from the tool kit until the stud pops free.
- A tie rod end puller presses the tapered stud out without damaging the steering knuckle.
- Do not hammer directly on the threaded stud if you plan to compare or reuse anything.
Step 8: Count Turns and Remove the Old Tie Rod End
- Use your hand or a 19mm wrench to unscrew the old outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod.
- Count the exact number of turns it takes to remove it.
- Write the number down.
- Counting turns helps preserve alignment.
Step 9: Install the New Tie Rod End
- Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod by hand using the same number of turns counted during removal.
- Use the paint marker and tape measure to compare the new position to your original measurement.
- Adjust slightly by hand if needed so the new tie rod end sits close to the original location.
Step 10: Attach the Tie Rod End to the Steering Knuckle
- Insert the new tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
- Install the new castle nut by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use the 17mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the tie rod end nut to Torque to 34-44 Nm (25-32 ft-lbs).
- If the cotter pin hole does not line up, tighten the castle nut slightly more until it lines up. Do not loosen it to align the hole.
- Install the new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers, then bend the ends around the nut.
Step 11: Tighten the Jam Nut
- Use the 22mm wrench on the jam nut and the 19mm wrench on the tie rod end flats if needed.
- Tighten the jam nut firmly against the outer tie rod end.
- Use the torque wrench 1/2-inch drive with a crowfoot wrench if available and tighten the jam nut to Torque to 50-60 Nm (37-44 ft-lbs).
- If you do not have a crowfoot wrench, tighten it securely with the wrench and have the alignment shop verify it.
Step 12: Reinstall the Wheel
- Place the wheel back on the hub by hand.
- Install the lug nuts by hand first.
- Use the 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
Step 13: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts
- Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Lower your Tucson until the tire touches the ground fully.
- Use the 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 107-127 Nm (79-94 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Turn the steering wheel left and right while parked to check for binding or unusual noises.
- ✅ Test drive slowly at first. If the steering wheel is off-center or the vehicle pulls, stop normal driving and go directly for alignment.
- ✅ Schedule a professional front wheel alignment immediately after tie rod end replacement.
- ✅ Recheck the cotter pin, castle nut, jam nut, and lug nut torque after the first short drive.
- ✅ If both sides are worn, replace both outer tie rod ends in pairs for best steering feel and tire wear.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $220-$450 per side including parts, labor, and alignment-related handling
DIY Cost: $35-$95 per side for parts only, plus alignment
You Save: $120-$300 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.5 hours per side.
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