How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2017 GMC Sierra 1500
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2017 GMC Sierra 1500
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
🔧 Outer Tie Rod End - Replacement
Replacing the outer tie rod end on your Sierra restores steering tightness and helps prevent uneven tire wear. After the repair, the front toe angle will need to be checked and adjusted because even a small change in tie rod length can affect alignment.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Work on level ground with the parking brake set.
- Chock the rear wheels before lifting the front end.
- Use jack stands under the frame; never rely on the jack alone.
- Keep hands clear of the steering knuckle and suspension while separating the joint.
- An alignment is required after this repair.
- Battery disconnect is not required.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands
- Wheel chocks
- 21mm socket
- 18mm wrench
- Hammer
- Pry bar
- Pliers
- Torque wrench
- Grease pencil or paint marker
- Safety glasses
- Gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
- Outer tie rod end castle nut - Qty: 1
- Cotter pin - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on a flat surface and center the steering wheel.
- Break the front wheel lug nuts loose before lifting the truck.
- Mark the tie rod end position before removal so the new part can be installed close to the same length.
- Tip: This helps you get to the alignment shop safely.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the front wheel
- Use a 21mm socket to loosen the lug nuts on the front wheel.
- Do not remove them yet.
Step 2: Lift and support the front end
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of the truck.
- Set the frame securely on jack stands.
- Remove the wheel.
Step 3: Mark the tie rod length
- Use a grease pencil or paint marker to mark the relationship between the tie rod end and the adjusting sleeve.
- Count the exposed threads if you can.
- Tip: This gives you a close starting point.
Step 4: Remove the cotter pin and castle nut
- Use pliers to straighten and pull out the cotter pin from the stud.
- Use an 18mm wrench to remove the castle nut.
- If the stud spins, apply upward pressure under the steering knuckle with a jack or pry bar while loosening the nut.
Step 5: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle
- Use a hammer to strike the side of the steering knuckle where the stud passes through.
- Do not hit the stud threads directly.
- If needed, use a pry bar for gentle downward pressure while tapping the knuckle.
Step 6: Remove the outer tie rod end
- Use an 18mm wrench to loosen the jam nut on the inner tie rod.
- Unscrew the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod.
- Count the turns as you remove it.
- Tip: Install the new one with the same number of turns.
Step 7: Install the new tie rod end
- Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod the same number of turns.
- Insert the stud into the steering knuckle.
- Install the new castle nut by hand first.
- Use a torque wrench to tighten the castle nut to 60 Nm (44 ft-lbs).
- If the cotter pin hole does not line up, tighten slightly more until it does. Do not loosen to align.
Step 8: Lock the jam nut
- Use an 18mm wrench to tighten the jam nut against the outer tie rod end.
- Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Install the cotter pin
- Insert the new cotter pin through the castle nut and stud.
- Bend the ends over with pliers so it cannot back out.
Step 10: Reinstall the wheel
- Reinstall the wheel and hand-start all lug nuts.
- Lower the truck.
- Use a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs) in a star pattern.
✅ After Repair
- Start the truck and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to check for binding.
- Test drive slowly to confirm the steering wheel is centered.
- Listen for clunks or looseness.
- Schedule a front-end alignment as soon as possible.
- Replace the other side if it shows wear.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $35-$90 (parts only)
You Save: $145-$260 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















