How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2017 Ford Explorer
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2017 Ford Explorer
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Tie Rod End - Replacement
The outer tie rod end connects the steering rack to the wheel knuckle. If it is loose, noisy, or torn, replacing it restores steering feel and helps prevent tire wear.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Support the vehicle securely on jack stands before removing any wheel.
- Keep hands clear of the steering knuckle and suspension pinch points.
- An alignment is required after this repair. Do not drive long distances before aligning.
- Use caution near the brake hose and ABS wire so they are not stretched or twisted.
- Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Gloves
- 21mm socket
- 19mm wrench
- 22mm wrench
- Torque wrench
- Pliers
- Pickle fork (specialty)
- Ball joint separator tool (specialty)
- Paint marker
- Penetrating oil
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
- New cotter pin - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting.
- Measure or mark the old tie rod end position before removal. This helps keep the alignment close enough to drive to the shop.
- Marking the threads saves time.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise the vehicle and remove the wheel
- Use a floor jack to lift the front of your Explorer at the proper jacking point.
- Set it on jack stands and chock the rear wheels.
- Use a 21mm socket to remove the lug nuts and take off the wheel.
Step 2: Expose the tie rod end
- Locate the outer tie rod end at the steering knuckle.
- Spray the jam nut and castle nut area with penetrating oil.
- Use a paint marker to mark the position of the jam nut on the threaded shaft.
Step 3: Remove the cotter pin and castle nut
- Use pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod stud.
- Use a 22mm wrench to remove the castle nut from the stud.
- Hold the stud steady if it spins.
Step 4: Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle
- Use a pickle fork or ball joint separator tool to break the taper joint loose from the steering knuckle.
- Strike the separator tool lightly if needed until the stud pops free.
- Do not hit the steering knuckle directly if you can avoid it.
Step 5: Remove the old tie rod end
- Use a 19mm wrench to loosen the jam nut on the inner tie rod.
- Count the number of turns it takes to remove the old tie rod end, or compare thread length to the new part.
- Spin the old tie rod end off the threaded shaft.
Step 6: Install the new tie rod end
- Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the shaft the same number of turns as the old one.
- Insert the stud into the steering knuckle.
- Use a 22mm wrench to install the castle nut.
- Torque to 52 Nm (38 ft-lbs), then tighten slightly more only if needed to line up the cotter pin hole.
- Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends over with pliers.
Step 7: Tighten the jam nut
- Use a 19mm wrench to tighten the jam nut against the new tie rod end.
- Torque to 90 Nm (66 ft-lbs).
- Make sure the tie rod end did not rotate while tightening.
Step 8: Reinstall the wheel
- Put the wheel back on and start the lug nuts by hand.
- Use a 21mm socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Lower the vehicle, then Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) on the lug nuts.
✅ After Repair
- Start the vehicle and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to check for smooth movement.
- Listen for popping, binding, or clunking.
- Drive carefully to a tire and alignment shop for a front-end alignment.
- Check that the steering wheel is centered after the alignment.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $220-$420 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $35-$90 (parts only)
You Save: $185-$330 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















