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2017 Chevrolet Equinox
2010 - 2021 Chevrolet Equinox
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How to Replace Outer Tie Rod 2010-2017 Chevrolet Equinox

How to Replace Outer Tie Rod 2010-2017 Chevrolet Equinox

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
Gloves
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How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2017 Chevrolet Equinox

Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021

How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2017 Chevrolet Equinox

Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021

Orion
Orion

🔧 Tie Rod End - Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects the steering rack to the front wheel knuckle. On your Equinox, this repair is usually done when you have steering play, clunking, uneven tire wear, or a torn boot. A wheel alignment is required after the repair.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • Park on level ground and chock the rear wheels before lifting.
  • Support the vehicle with jack stands. Never work under a vehicle held only by a jack.
  • Do not pry on the steering boot or rack housing.
  • An alignment is required after tie rod end replacement.
  • If the vehicle has an electronic steering fault after service, a scan tool may be needed to clear codes.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • 17mm lug wrench or socket
  • 18mm wrench
  • 21mm socket
  • Torque wrench
  • Pliers
  • Pickle fork (specialty)
  • Hammer
  • Paint marker
  • Measuring tape

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
  • Outer tie rod end jam nut - Qty: 1
  • Cotter pin - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground with the steering wheel centered.
  • Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting.
  • Mark the old tie rod position first. This helps keep the alignment close enough to drive to the shop.
  • Do not skip the alignment.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen and lift the front corner

  • Use a 17mm lug wrench or socket to loosen the front wheel lug nuts.
  • Raise the vehicle with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Set the vehicle on jack stands and remove the wheel.

Step 2: Mark the tie rod position

  • Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the tie rod end and the threaded shaft.
  • Measure the exposed threads or count visible turns if you can.
  • This helps keep toe close enough to drive.

Step 3: Remove the cotter pin and castle nut

  • Use pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod stud.
  • Use a 21mm socket to remove the castle nut.
  • If the stud spins, place an 18mm wrench on the stud flats while loosening the nut.

Step 4: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

  • Use a pickle fork (specialty) and a hammer to separate the taper joint.
  • Hit the steering knuckle boss if the joint is stuck, not the threaded stud.
  • Tap, don’t smash the threads.

Step 5: Remove the old tie rod end

  • Use an 18mm wrench to loosen the jam nut on the inner rod.
  • Spin the old tie rod end off by hand.
  • Count the turns as you remove it. Install the new one with the same number of turns.

Step 6: Install the new tie rod end

  • Thread the new tie rod end on by hand the same number of turns as the old one.
  • Install the stud into the steering knuckle.
  • Use a 21mm socket to install the castle nut.
  • Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs), then continue slightly if needed to line up the cotter pin hole.
  • Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends over with pliers.

Step 7: Tighten the jam nut

  • Use an 18mm wrench to tighten the jam nut against the tie rod end.
  • Torque to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reinstall the wheel

  • Install the wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
  • Lower the vehicle and use a 17mm lug wrench or socket to snug the lug nuts.
  • Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs) in a star pattern.

✅ After Repair

  • Road test at low speed first.
  • Check for steering pull, clunks, or looseness.
  • Schedule a professional wheel alignment as soon as possible.
  • If the steering wheel is off-center, the toe is not set correctly.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$420 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$90 (parts only)

You Save: $185-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.


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