How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2017 Chevrolet Equinox
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2017 Chevrolet Equinox
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
🔧 Tie Rod End - Replacement
Assumption: This guide covers the outer tie rod end. Replacing it restores steering feel and removes looseness or clunking at the front wheels. Because the steering geometry changes when you replace it, an alignment is required after the repair.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Support the vehicle securely on jack stands before working underneath it.
- Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Keep your hands clear of the steering knuckle while separating the tie rod end.
- An alignment is required after installation.
- If equipped with electronic steering angle features, do not turn the steering wheel with the tie rod disconnected.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands
- Wheel chocks
- 21mm socket
- 18mm wrench
- Ratchet
- Breaker bar
- Torque wrench
- Pry bar
- Needle-nose pliers
- Ball joint separator (specialty)
- Tie rod end puller (specialty)
- Paint marker
- Safety glasses
- Gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
- Outer tie rod end castle nut - Qty: 1
- Cotter pin - Qty: 1
- Alignment service - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
- Mark the current tie rod end position with a paint marker to help preserve toe setting.
- Count the exposed threads or measure the old tie rod end length before removal.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise and secure the vehicle
- Use the floor jack to lift the front of the vehicle.
- Place jack stands under the proper support points and lower the vehicle onto them.
- Remove the front wheel with the 21mm socket and breaker bar.
- Keep the wheel under the vehicle as an extra safety cushion.
Step 2: Remove the cotter pin and castle nut
- Use needle-nose pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud.
- Use the 21mm socket or the correct size wrench for the castle nut.
- Remove the nut from the tie rod end stud.
Step 3: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle
- Use a ball joint separator (specialty) or tie rod end puller (specialty) to break the taper loose.
- If needed, tap the knuckle lightly while keeping pressure on the separator.
- Do not hammer directly on the stud threads.
- A puller is cleaner than striking the joint.
Step 4: Remove the old tie rod end
- Use the 18mm wrench to loosen the tie rod end jam nut on the inner rod.
- Count the turns while unthreading the old tie rod end from the inner tie rod.
- Remove the old tie rod end completely.
Step 5: Install the new tie rod end
- Thread the new tie rod end onto the inner rod the same number of turns counted during removal.
- Insert the stud into the steering knuckle.
- Install the new castle nut and tighten it with the 21mm socket.
- Torque to 61 N·m (45 lb-ft).
- Continue tightening only if needed to line up the cotter pin hole; do not loosen more than necessary to align it.
- Install the new cotter pin with needle-nose pliers.
Step 6: Tighten the jam nut and reinstall the wheel
- Use the 18mm wrench to tighten the jam nut on the inner tie rod.
- Torque to 74 N·m (55 lb-ft).
- Reinstall the wheel with the 21mm socket.
- Torque to 190 N·m (140 ft-lbs).
- Lower the vehicle to the ground with the floor jack.
✅ After Repair
- Check that the steering wheel turns freely from lock to lock.
- Inspect the tie rod end for correct seating and cotter pin installation.
- Drive carefully to a shop for a front-end alignment as soon as possible.
- Listen for clunks or looseness on a short test drive.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$400 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $35-$90 (parts only)
You Save: $145-$310 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.













