How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2017-2025 Mazda CX-5
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment advice for 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024, 2025
How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2017-2025 Mazda CX-5
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment advice for 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024, 2025
🔧 CX-5 - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement
This repair replaces a worn outer tie rod end, which connects the steering rack to the front wheel knuckle and lets the wheel turn when you steer. A bad tie rod end can cause clunking, loose steering, uneven tire wear, or poor alignment.
Difficulty Level: Beginner-Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours per side
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on level ground and support your CX-5 with jack stands before going near the wheel area.
- ⚠️ Never rely on a floor jack alone. A floor jack lifts the vehicle; jack stands hold it safely.
- ⚠️ Replace only one side at a time so you can compare the old part position.
- ⚠️ The vehicle must receive a front wheel alignment after tie rod replacement.
- ⚠️ Do not drive far before alignment. Poor toe angle can quickly damage tires and affect steering.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 21mm lug nut socket
- 1/2-inch breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 17mm open-end wrench
- 19mm socket
- 19mm open-end wrench
- Adjustable wrench
- Tie rod end separator (specialty)
- Ball joint separator tool (specialty)
- Needle-nose pliers
- Paint marker
- Tape measure
- Wire brush
- Penetrating oil
- Shop rags
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1 per side
- New tie rod end castle nut - Qty: 1 per side
- New cotter pin - Qty: 1 per side
- Front wheel alignment - Qty: 1 service
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your CX-5 on a flat, solid surface.
- Place the transmission in Park and set the parking brake.
- Put wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Point the front wheels straight ahead before lifting.
- Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end nut and jam nut 10-15 minutes before removal.
- A jam nut is the locknut on the inner tie rod that holds the outer tie rod end in place.
- A cotter pin is a small bent metal pin that keeps the nut from loosening.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts
- Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts about half a turn.
- Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
- Tip: Loosen lugs before lifting.
Step 2: Lift and Support the Front of Your CX-5
- Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum at the front lift point to raise the vehicle.
- Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the proper front support points.
- Slowly lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
- Gently push the vehicle by hand to confirm it is stable.
Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel
- Use a 21mm lug nut socket to remove the loosened lug nuts.
- Remove the wheel and set it flat under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.
Step 4: Mark and Measure the Old Tie Rod Position
- Use a paint marker to mark the threads where the outer tie rod meets the jam nut.
- Use a tape measure to measure from the center of the tie rod end stud to the jam nut face.
- Write the measurement down before loosening anything.
- This helps keep the alignment close enough to drive carefully to an alignment shop.
Step 5: Loosen the Jam Nut
- Use a 17mm open-end wrench on the jam nut.
- Use a 19mm open-end wrench or adjustable wrench on the flats of the outer tie rod end if it tries to turn.
- Turn the jam nut loose about one turn only.
- Do not move the jam nut far from your paint mark.
- Tip: Keep the nut as a reference.
Step 6: Remove the Cotter Pin
- Use needle-nose pliers to straighten the bent ends of the cotter pin at the tie rod stud.
- Pull the cotter pin out of the castle nut.
- If it breaks, use needle-nose pliers to remove all remaining pieces.
Step 7: Remove the Tie Rod End Nut
- Use a 19mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen the castle nut.
- Remove the castle nut from the tie rod end stud.
- A castle nut has slots on top so a cotter pin can pass through it.
Step 8: Separate the Tie Rod End from the Steering Knuckle
- Use a tie rod end separator or ball joint separator tool to press the tie rod stud out of the steering knuckle.
- Do not hit the aluminum steering knuckle hard with a hammer.
- Once free, lift the tie rod end out of the knuckle.
- Tip: A separator prevents damage.
Step 9: Count Turns While Removing the Old Tie Rod End
- Turn the old outer tie rod end counterclockwise by hand to unscrew it from the inner tie rod.
- Count every full turn as you remove it.
- Write the turn count down.
- Example: If the old tie rod comes off in 18 turns, install the new one about 18 turns.
Step 10: Install the New Outer Tie Rod End
- Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod by hand.
- Use the same number of turns you counted during removal.
- Stop when it reaches your paint mark and original measurement.
- Keep the jam nut loose for final positioning.
Step 11: Install the Tie Rod Stud into the Steering Knuckle
- Insert the new tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
- Install the new castle nut by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 19mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the tie rod end nut to Torque to 39-49 Nm (29-36 ft-lbs).
- If the cotter pin hole does not line up, tighten the castle nut slightly more until the hole lines up.
- Do not loosen the nut to align the cotter pin hole.
Step 12: Install the New Cotter Pin
- Slide the new cotter pin through the hole in the tie rod stud.
- Use needle-nose pliers to bend the ends of the cotter pin around the castle nut.
- Make sure the cotter pin cannot fall out.
Step 13: Tighten the Jam Nut
- Use a 17mm open-end wrench to tighten the jam nut against the outer tie rod end.
- Use a 19mm open-end wrench or adjustable wrench to hold the tie rod end steady while tightening.
- Tighten the jam nut firmly to its original position at the paint mark.
- If using torque-capable crowfoot tools, tighten to Torque to 69-98 Nm (51-72 ft-lbs).
Step 14: Reinstall the Front Wheel
- Place the wheel back onto the hub by hand.
- Install the lug nuts finger-tight.
- Use a 21mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
Step 15: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts
- Use the floor jack to raise the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands.
- Lower your CX-5 to the ground.
- Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 108-147 Nm (80-108 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Turn the steering wheel left and right while parked and listen for binding or clunks.
- Drive slowly around the block only if the steering feels normal.
- Keep speed low and avoid highway driving until the alignment is done.
- Schedule a front wheel alignment as soon as possible.
- After 25-50 miles, recheck the lug nut torque with a 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench.
- If the steering wheel is off-center or the vehicle pulls, stop driving and get the alignment corrected.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$500 per side including alignment
DIY Cost: $35-$120 per tie rod end, plus $90-$150 for alignment
You Save: $125-$250 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours plus alignment time.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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