How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2016-2022 Honda HR-V
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022
How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2016-2022 Honda HR-V
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022
🔧 HR-V - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement
This repair replaces the outer tie rod end, which connects the steering rack to the front wheel knuckle. A worn tie rod end can cause loose steering, clunking, uneven tire wear, or wandering while driving.
Difficulty Level: Beginner to Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours per side
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on level ground only and support your HR-V with jack stands before removing a wheel.
- ⚠️ Never rely on a floor jack alone. A floor jack lifts the vehicle; jack stands hold it safely.
- ⚠️ Do not hammer directly on the threaded stud of the tie rod end, or you can damage the steering knuckle or threads.
- ⚠️ Count the turns when removing the old tie rod end. This keeps the alignment close enough to drive carefully to an alignment shop.
- ⚠️ A professional wheel alignment is required after this repair.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 19mm socket
- 17mm wrench
- 19mm wrench
- Needle-nose pliers
- Tie rod end puller (specialty)
- Torque wrench 10-100 ft-lb
- Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
- Ratchet 1/2-inch drive
- Paint marker
- Tape measure
- Floor jack 2-ton minimum
- Jack stands 2-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1 per side
- New cotter pin - Qty: 1 per side
- New castle nut - Qty: 1 per side, if not included with tie rod end
📋 Before You Begin
- 🚗 Park your HR-V on level ground with the steering wheel straight.
- 🅿️ Shift to Park and apply the parking brake.
- 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- 🖊️ Use a paint marker to mark the position of the outer tie rod end and lock nut before removal.
- 📏 A lock nut is the nut on the threaded steering rod that locks the tie rod end in place.
- 📏 A castle nut is the slotted nut that holds the tie rod end stud to the steering knuckle.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts
- Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about 1/2 turn.
- Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
- Loosen lugs before lifting.
Step 2: Raise and Support the Front of the Vehicle
- Use a floor jack 2-ton minimum to lift the front of your HR-V at the front center jacking point.
- Place jack stands 2-ton minimum under the front side support points.
- Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
- Shake the vehicle lightly by hand to confirm it is stable.
Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel
- Use a 19mm socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to remove the loosened lug nuts.
- Remove the wheel and set it flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.
Step 4: Mark and Measure the Tie Rod Position
- Use a paint marker to mark the outer tie rod end, lock nut, and threaded inner tie rod shaft.
- Use a tape measure to measure from the lock nut to the center of the tie rod end stud.
- Write the measurement down before removing anything.
- This helps keep the steering close enough for a short drive to the alignment shop.
Step 5: Loosen the Tie Rod Lock Nut
- Use a 19mm wrench on the lock nut.
- Turn the lock nut loose about 1/4 turn only.
- Do not spin it far away from its original position.
- Keep the lock nut as a reference.
Step 6: Remove the Cotter Pin
- Use needle-nose pliers to straighten and pull out the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud.
- If the cotter pin breaks, remove all remaining pieces before removing the nut.
- Discard the old cotter pin. It should not be reused.
Step 7: Remove the Castle Nut
- Use a 17mm wrench or 17mm socket if access allows to remove the castle nut from the tie rod end stud.
- If the stud spins, press upward on the tie rod end by hand while loosening the nut.
Step 8: Separate the Tie Rod End from the Steering Knuckle
- Install the tie rod end puller (specialty) over the tie rod end and steering knuckle.
- Tighten the puller until the tie rod end pops loose from the knuckle.
- A tie rod end puller safely pushes the tapered stud out without damaging the rubber boot or steering knuckle.
- Do not use a pickle fork unless replacing the tie rod end, because it can tear the boot.
Step 9: Count Turns and Remove the Old Tie Rod End
- Spin the old outer tie rod end off the threaded inner tie rod by hand.
- Count the exact number of full turns it takes to remove it.
- Write the number down.
- Example: if it takes 17 full turns to remove, install the new one 17 full turns.
Step 10: Install the New Outer Tie Rod End
- Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod by hand.
- Use the same number of turns you counted during removal.
- Line it up with your paint marks and measurement as closely as possible.
- Do not fully tighten the lock nut yet.
Step 11: Attach the Tie Rod End to the Steering Knuckle
- Insert the new tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
- Install the castle nut by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 17mm wrench and torque wrench 10-100 ft-lb to tighten the castle nut to Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs).
- If the cotter pin hole does not line up, tighten the nut slightly more until it lines up. Do not loosen the nut to line up the hole.
Step 12: Install the New Cotter Pin
- Push the new cotter pin through the hole in the tie rod end stud.
- Use needle-nose pliers to bend the cotter pin ends around the castle nut.
- Make sure the cotter pin cannot slide back out.
Step 13: Tighten the Lock Nut
- Hold the outer tie rod end steady with a 17mm wrench.
- Use a 19mm wrench and tighten the lock nut against the outer tie rod end.
- Final tighten the lock nut to Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs).
- Make sure the tie rod end is not twisted after tightening.
Step 14: Reinstall the Wheel
- Place the wheel back onto the hub by hand.
- Install the lug nuts by hand first.
- Use a 19mm socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
Step 15: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts
- Use the floor jack 2-ton minimum to raise the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands 2-ton minimum.
- Lower your HR-V fully to the ground.
- Use a 19mm socket and torque wrench 10-100 ft-lb to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Turn the steering wheel slowly left and right to make sure nothing binds or rubs.
- ✅ Test drive slowly at first. Listen for clunks and check that the steering feels stable.
- ✅ If the steering wheel is off-center, do not keep driving long distances.
- ✅ Schedule a front wheel alignment immediately. Tie rod replacement changes toe angle, which affects tire wear and steering stability.
- ✅ Recheck the lug nut torque after 25-50 miles: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $220-$420 per side, including parts, labor, and basic alignment adjustment
DIY Cost: $35-$90 per side for the tie rod end, plus alignment afterward
You Save: $120-$250 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.3 hours per side.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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