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2018 Honda HR-V
2016 - 2022 Honda HR-V

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How to Replace Outer Tie Rod End | Fix Shaky Steering & Tire Wear 🚗🔧

How to Replace Outer Tie Rod End | Fix Shaky Steering & Tire Wear 🚗🔧

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
17mm
17mm
Wrench
or (21/32")
19mm
19mm
Wrench
or (23/32")
Needle Nose
Needle Nose
Pliers
Inner
Inner
Tie Rod End
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How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2016-2022 Honda HR-V

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022

How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2016-2022 Honda HR-V

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022

Orion
Orion

🔧 HR-V - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

This repair replaces the outer tie rod end, which connects the steering rack to the front wheel knuckle. A worn tie rod end can cause loose steering, clunking, uneven tire wear, or wandering while driving.

Difficulty Level: Beginner to Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours per side


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on level ground only and support your HR-V with jack stands before removing a wheel.
  • ⚠️ Never rely on a floor jack alone. A floor jack lifts the vehicle; jack stands hold it safely.
  • ⚠️ Do not hammer directly on the threaded stud of the tie rod end, or you can damage the steering knuckle or threads.
  • ⚠️ Count the turns when removing the old tie rod end. This keeps the alignment close enough to drive carefully to an alignment shop.
  • ⚠️ A professional wheel alignment is required after this repair.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 19mm socket
  • 17mm wrench
  • 19mm wrench
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Tie rod end puller (specialty)
  • Torque wrench 10-100 ft-lb
  • Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
  • Ratchet 1/2-inch drive
  • Paint marker
  • Tape measure
  • Floor jack 2-ton minimum
  • Jack stands 2-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1 per side
  • New cotter pin - Qty: 1 per side
  • New castle nut - Qty: 1 per side, if not included with tie rod end

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🚗 Park your HR-V on level ground with the steering wheel straight.
  • 🅿️ Shift to Park and apply the parking brake.
  • 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • 🖊️ Use a paint marker to mark the position of the outer tie rod end and lock nut before removal.
  • 📏 A lock nut is the nut on the threaded steering rod that locks the tie rod end in place.
  • 📏 A castle nut is the slotted nut that holds the tie rod end stud to the steering knuckle.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

  • Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about 1/2 turn.
  • Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
  • Loosen lugs before lifting.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front of the Vehicle

  • Use a floor jack 2-ton minimum to lift the front of your HR-V at the front center jacking point.
  • Place jack stands 2-ton minimum under the front side support points.
  • Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
  • Shake the vehicle lightly by hand to confirm it is stable.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel

  • Use a 19mm socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to remove the loosened lug nuts.
  • Remove the wheel and set it flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Mark and Measure the Tie Rod Position

  • Use a paint marker to mark the outer tie rod end, lock nut, and threaded inner tie rod shaft.
  • Use a tape measure to measure from the lock nut to the center of the tie rod end stud.
  • Write the measurement down before removing anything.
  • This helps keep the steering close enough for a short drive to the alignment shop.

Step 5: Loosen the Tie Rod Lock Nut

  • Use a 19mm wrench on the lock nut.
  • Turn the lock nut loose about 1/4 turn only.
  • Do not spin it far away from its original position.
  • Keep the lock nut as a reference.

Step 6: Remove the Cotter Pin

  • Use needle-nose pliers to straighten and pull out the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud.
  • If the cotter pin breaks, remove all remaining pieces before removing the nut.
  • Discard the old cotter pin. It should not be reused.

Step 7: Remove the Castle Nut

  • Use a 17mm wrench or 17mm socket if access allows to remove the castle nut from the tie rod end stud.
  • If the stud spins, press upward on the tie rod end by hand while loosening the nut.

Step 8: Separate the Tie Rod End from the Steering Knuckle

  • Install the tie rod end puller (specialty) over the tie rod end and steering knuckle.
  • Tighten the puller until the tie rod end pops loose from the knuckle.
  • A tie rod end puller safely pushes the tapered stud out without damaging the rubber boot or steering knuckle.
  • Do not use a pickle fork unless replacing the tie rod end, because it can tear the boot.

Step 9: Count Turns and Remove the Old Tie Rod End

  • Spin the old outer tie rod end off the threaded inner tie rod by hand.
  • Count the exact number of full turns it takes to remove it.
  • Write the number down.
  • Example: if it takes 17 full turns to remove, install the new one 17 full turns.

Step 10: Install the New Outer Tie Rod End

  • Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod by hand.
  • Use the same number of turns you counted during removal.
  • Line it up with your paint marks and measurement as closely as possible.
  • Do not fully tighten the lock nut yet.

Step 11: Attach the Tie Rod End to the Steering Knuckle

  • Insert the new tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
  • Install the castle nut by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a 17mm wrench and torque wrench 10-100 ft-lb to tighten the castle nut to Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs).
  • If the cotter pin hole does not line up, tighten the nut slightly more until it lines up. Do not loosen the nut to line up the hole.

Step 12: Install the New Cotter Pin

  • Push the new cotter pin through the hole in the tie rod end stud.
  • Use needle-nose pliers to bend the cotter pin ends around the castle nut.
  • Make sure the cotter pin cannot slide back out.

Step 13: Tighten the Lock Nut

  • Hold the outer tie rod end steady with a 17mm wrench.
  • Use a 19mm wrench and tighten the lock nut against the outer tie rod end.
  • Final tighten the lock nut to Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs).
  • Make sure the tie rod end is not twisted after tightening.

Step 14: Reinstall the Wheel

  • Place the wheel back onto the hub by hand.
  • Install the lug nuts by hand first.
  • Use a 19mm socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 15: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

  • Use the floor jack 2-ton minimum to raise the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands 2-ton minimum.
  • Lower your HR-V fully to the ground.
  • Use a 19mm socket and torque wrench 10-100 ft-lb to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Turn the steering wheel slowly left and right to make sure nothing binds or rubs.
  • ✅ Test drive slowly at first. Listen for clunks and check that the steering feels stable.
  • ✅ If the steering wheel is off-center, do not keep driving long distances.
  • ✅ Schedule a front wheel alignment immediately. Tie rod replacement changes toe angle, which affects tire wear and steering stability.
  • ✅ Recheck the lug nut torque after 25-50 miles: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$420 per side, including parts, labor, and basic alignment adjustment

DIY Cost: $35-$90 per side for the tie rod end, plus alignment afterward

You Save: $120-$250 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.3 hours per side.


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