🔧 Tucson - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

This repair replaces the outer tie rod end, which connects the steering rack to the front wheel knuckle and helps steer your Tucson. A worn tie rod end can cause clunking, loose steering, uneven tire wear, or wandering on the road.

Difficulty Level: Beginner-Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours per side

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always support your Tucson with jack stands before working under or around the wheel area.
• ⚠️ Do not rely on a floor jack alone. A floor jack lifts the vehicle; jack stands hold it safely.
• ⚠️ Replace the tie rod end on the side that is worn. If both sides have play, replace both and get an alignment afterward.
• ⚠️ The steering alignment will be affected. A professional wheel alignment is required after this repair.
• ⚠️ Do not loosen or remove the inner tie rod unless you are replacing it too.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 21mm lug nut socket
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 17mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• 22mm wrench
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• Torque wrench rated to 100 ft-lbs
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Needle nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Hammer, 16 oz
• Wire brush
• Penetrating oil spray
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1 per side
• New cotter pin - Qty: 1 per side
• New tie rod end castle nut - Qty: 1 per side if not included

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Tucson on level ground with the steering wheel straight.
• Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
• Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end nut and jam nut. The jam nut locks the tie rod end onto the threaded inner tie rod.
• Use a paint marker to mark the current tie rod position before removal. This helps keep the alignment close enough to drive to an alignment shop.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel

• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about half a turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Loosen before lifting for safety.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front of the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum at the front center lifting point or approved side pinch weld area.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the proper front support points.
• Gently lower your Tucson onto the jack stands.
• Keep the floor jack lightly touching as a backup, but do not use it as the main support.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel

• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the lug nuts.
• Remove the wheel and place it flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Mark and Measure the Old Tie Rod Position

• Use a paint marker to mark the threads where the outer tie rod end meets the jam nut.
• Use a tape measure to measure from the center of the tie rod end stud to a fixed point on the inner tie rod.
• Write the measurement down before removing anything.
• This helps keep steering close.

Step 5: Loosen the Jam Nut

• Use a 22mm wrench on the jam nut behind the outer tie rod end.
• Hold the outer tie rod end steady with a 19mm wrench if needed.
• Turn the jam nut loose only about 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
• Do not move the jam nut far from your paint mark.

Step 6: Remove the Cotter Pin

• Use needle nose pliers to straighten and pull out the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud.
• A cotter pin is a small bent safety pin that keeps the nut from backing off.
• Discard the old cotter pin. Do not reuse it.

Step 7: Remove the Tie Rod End Nut

• Use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket, depending on the installed nut size, with a 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the castle nut.
• A castle nut has slots on top for the cotter pin.
• If the stud spins, apply light upward pressure under the tie rod end with the tie rod end puller while loosening the nut.

Step 8: Separate the Tie Rod End from the Steering Knuckle

• Install the tie rod end puller (specialty) over the tie rod end and steering knuckle.
• A tie rod end puller presses the tapered stud out without damaging the steering knuckle.
• Tighten the puller with a 17mm socket or 19mm socket until the stud pops loose.
• If needed, tap the side of the steering knuckle lightly with a hammer, 16 oz.
• Do not hit the threaded stud if you might need to compare the old part.

Step 9: Count Turns and Remove the Old Tie Rod End

• Use your hand or a 19mm wrench to unscrew the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod.
• Count every full turn as you remove it.
• Write down the number of turns.
• Example: if it takes 17 turns to remove, install the new one 17 turns.

Step 10: Install the New Tie Rod End

• Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod by hand.
• Turn it the same number of turns counted during removal.
• Use the tape measure to compare your original measurement.
• Use the paint marker mark as a guide to keep the jam nut near its original location.

Step 11: Install the Tie Rod End into the Steering Knuckle

• Insert the new tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
• Install the new castle nut by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket and torque wrench rated to 100 ft-lbs to tighten the nut.
• Torque to 34-44 Nm (25-33 ft-lbs).
• If the cotter pin hole does not line up, tighten the nut slightly more until it lines up. Do not loosen the nut to align the hole.

Step 12: Install the New Cotter Pin

• Slide the new cotter pin through the hole in the tie rod end stud.
• Use needle nose pliers to bend the cotter pin legs around the castle nut.
• Make sure the cotter pin cannot fall out.

Step 13: Tighten the Jam Nut

• Hold the new outer tie rod end steady with a 19mm wrench.
• Use a 22mm wrench to tighten the jam nut against the outer tie rod end.
• Torque to 50-60 Nm (37-44 ft-lbs).
• If using a regular wrench instead of a torque adapter, tighten it firmly without forcing it.

Step 14: Reinstall the Wheel

• Lift the wheel onto the hub by hand.
• Install the lug nuts by hand first.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 15: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift your Tucson slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower the vehicle fully to the ground.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench rated to 100 ft-lbs to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 88-108 Nm (65-80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Turn the steering wheel left and right while parked to make sure nothing binds or rubs.
• ✅ Test drive slowly in a safe area. Listen for clunks and check that the steering returns normally.
• ✅ Schedule a professional front wheel alignment immediately. The toe angle is affected by tie rod length.
• ✅ Recheck the jam nut and cotter pin after the short test drive.
• ✅ If the steering wheel is badly off-center, do not drive far. Go directly to an alignment shop.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 per side including parts, labor, and basic alignment-related labor

DIY Cost: $25-$75 per side for the tie rod end and hardware

You Save: $100-$250 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.2 hours per side, plus alignment time.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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