🔧 Edge - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

This repair replaces the outer tie rod end, which connects the steering rack to the front wheel knuckle and lets your Edge steer properly. A worn tie rod end can cause clunking, loose steering, uneven tire wear, or poor alignment.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours per side

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface and support your Edge with jack stands before putting any part of your body near the wheel area.
• ⚠️ Never rely on a floor jack alone. A floor jack lifts the vehicle; jack stands hold it safely.
• ⚠️ Do not hammer directly on the steering knuckle where sensors or boots can be damaged.
• ⚠️ The steering wheel should stay centered while the tie rod is disconnected.
• ⚠️ An alignment is required after tie rod replacement to prevent tire wear and steering pull.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm lug nut socket
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• Open-end wrench set 18mm-24mm
• Adjustable wrench 10-inch
• Pliers
• Side cutters
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Ball joint separator fork (specialty)
• Hammer 2-lb
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Penetrating oil spray
• Wire brush
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1 per side
• New tie rod end castle nut - Qty: 1 per side
• New cotter pin - Qty: 1 per side
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1 small tube

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Edge on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Keep the steering wheel straight before lifting the vehicle.
• Spray penetrating oil on the outer tie rod jam nut and the tie rod stud nut. Let it soak for 10-15 minutes.
• A jam nut is the locknut behind the outer tie rod end that keeps the tie rod from turning out of adjustment.
• A cotter pin is a small bent safety pin that locks the steering nut in place.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the lug nuts on the side you are repairing.
• Only loosen them about half a turn while the tire is still on the ground.
• Do not remove them yet.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front of the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper front lift point to raise your Edge.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front support points.
• Slowly lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
• Gently shake the vehicle by hand to confirm it is stable.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel

• Use the 19mm lug nut socket to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove the wheel and place it flat under the side of the vehicle as a backup safety measure.

Step 4: Mark the Tie Rod Position

• Use a paint marker to mark the threads where the outer tie rod end meets the inner tie rod.
• Use a tape measure to measure from the jam nut to the center of the tie rod stud.
• Write the measurement down before removing anything.
• This helps keep alignment close enough for driving to a shop.

Step 5: Loosen the Jam Nut

• Use the correct size open-end wrench set 18mm-24mm on the jam nut behind the outer tie rod end.
• Hold the inner tie rod steady with an adjustable wrench 10-inch if it tries to turn.
• Turn the jam nut loose about one quarter turn only.
• Do not move it far from its original position.

Step 6: Remove the Cotter Pin

• Use pliers to straighten the bent ends of the cotter pin at the tie rod stud.
• Use side cutters to pull the cotter pin out of the castle nut.
• A castle nut has slots on top so the cotter pin can pass through and lock it.
• If the cotter pin breaks, use side cutters and pliers to remove all pieces.

Step 7: Remove the Tie Rod Stud Nut

• Use the correct size open-end wrench set 18mm-24mm or socket from your set to remove the castle nut from the tie rod stud.
• If the stud spins, apply light upward pressure under the tie rod end with the tie rod end puller (specialty) while turning the nut.
• Keep the nut nearby only for comparison. Use the new nut during installation.

Step 8: Separate the Tie Rod End from the Steering Knuckle

• Install the tie rod end puller (specialty) over the tie rod end and steering knuckle.
• Tighten the puller until the tie rod stud pops free from the knuckle.
• If needed, use a hammer 2-lb to lightly tap the side of the steering knuckle while tension is on the puller.
• Use a ball joint separator fork (specialty) only if replacing the tie rod end, because it can tear the rubber boot.

Step 9: Count Turns While Removing the Old Tie Rod End

• Turn the outer tie rod end counterclockwise by hand to remove it from the inner tie rod.
• Count the exact number of full turns it takes to remove.
• Write that number down.
• Turn count helps preserve the toe setting.

Step 10: Compare the New Tie Rod End

• Place the old and new outer tie rod end side by side.
• Confirm the threaded length, stud taper, and bend direction match.
• Use a wire brush to clean the inner tie rod threads.
• Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the inner tie rod threads.

Step 11: Install the New Outer Tie Rod End

• Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod by hand.
• Use the same number of turns you counted during removal.
• Align it with your paint mark and measurement as closely as possible.
• Do not fully tighten the jam nut yet.

Step 12: Install the Tie Rod Stud into the Steering Knuckle

• Guide the new tie rod stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
• Install the new castle nut by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the correct size open-end wrench set 18mm-24mm or socket to tighten the nut.
• Torque to 63 Nm (46 ft-lbs), then continue tightening only enough to line up the cotter pin hole with the castle nut slot.
• Do not loosen the nut to align the cotter pin hole.

Step 13: Install the New Cotter Pin

• Slide the new cotter pin through the tie rod stud hole.
• Use pliers to bend the cotter pin ends around the castle nut.
• Make sure the cotter pin cannot fall out.

Step 14: Tighten the Jam Nut

• Hold the outer tie rod end steady with the open-end wrench set 18mm-24mm.
• Use another wrench from the open-end wrench set 18mm-24mm to tighten the jam nut against the outer tie rod end.
• Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs).
• Confirm the tie rod end boot is not twisted.

Step 15: Reinstall the Front Wheel

• Place the wheel back on the hub.
• Install the lug nuts by hand first.
• Use the 19mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 16: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Lower your Edge fully to the ground.
• Use the torque wrench 1/2-inch drive and 19mm lug nut socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 204 Nm (150 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Turn the steering wheel left and right while parked to make sure nothing binds or clunks.
• ✅ Test drive slowly at first. Listen for knocking and confirm the steering wheel returns normally.
• ✅ Schedule a professional wheel alignment immediately. Tie rod work changes toe angle, which controls whether the tires point straight ahead.
• ✅ Avoid highway speeds until the alignment is completed if the steering wheel is off-center or the vehicle pulls.
• ✅ Recheck the jam nut and cotter pin after the short test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$450 per side including parts, labor, and alignment

DIY Cost: $35-$90 per side for parts, plus alignment

You Save: $120-$250 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-1.5 hours plus alignment time.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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