How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2013-2020 Ford Fusion
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment advice for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2013-2020 Ford Fusion
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment advice for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 Fusion - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement
This repair replaces the worn outer tie rod end, which connects the steering rack to the front wheel knuckle and helps steer your Fusion. A bad tie rod end can cause loose steering, clunking, uneven tire wear, or poor alignment.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours per side
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface and support your Fusion with jack stands before going under or near the wheel area.
- ⚠️ Never rely on a floor jack alone. A floor jack lifts the car; jack stands safely hold it up.
- ⚠️ The steering knuckle and brake area may have sharp edges, so wear gloves and safety glasses.
- ⚠️ Do one side at a time so you can compare the other side if needed.
- ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after replacing a tie rod end.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 19mm lug nut socket
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Adjustable wrench
- 21mm open-end wrench
- 15mm socket
- Ratchet
- Tie rod end puller (specialty)
- Needle-nose pliers
- Paint marker
- Tape measure
- Wire brush
- Penetrating oil
- Anti-seize compound
- Mechanic gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1 per side
- New tie rod end castle nut or prevailing torque nut - Qty: 1 per side
- New cotter pin - Qty: 1 per side, if equipped with castle nut
- Wheel alignment service - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Fusion on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels to keep the car from rolling.
- Turn the steering wheel slightly so the tie rod end you are replacing is easier to reach.
- Spray the tie rod jam nut and tie rod end stud with penetrating oil and let it soak for a few minutes.
- A jam nut is the locking nut on the inner tie rod that keeps the outer tie rod end from turning.
- Before removing the old tie rod end, mark and measure its position. This helps keep the alignment close enough to drive to an alignment shop.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts
- Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about half a turn.
- Do this while the tire is still touching the ground so the wheel does not spin.
- Tip: Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
Step 2: Lift and Support the Front of the Vehicle
- Use a floor jack at the front jacking point to lift your Fusion high enough for the tire to clear the ground.
- Place jack stands under the proper front support points.
- Slowly lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
- Gently shake the vehicle by hand to confirm it is stable before removing the wheel.
Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel
- Use the 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
- Remove the wheel and set it flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.
Step 4: Mark the Tie Rod Position
- Use a wire brush to clean the threads where the outer tie rod end meets the jam nut.
- Use a paint marker to mark the position of the jam nut on the threads.
- Use a tape measure to measure from the center of the tie rod end stud to a fixed point on the inner tie rod, and write the measurement down.
- Tip: This helps preserve steering alignment temporarily.
Step 5: Loosen the Jam Nut
- Hold the outer tie rod end steady with an adjustable wrench.
- Use a 21mm open-end wrench to loosen the jam nut about one turn.
- Do not move the jam nut far from your paint mark.
Step 6: Remove the Tie Rod End Nut
- If your tie rod end uses a cotter pin, use needle-nose pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin.
- Use a 15mm socket and ratchet to remove the tie rod end nut from the steering knuckle.
- The steering knuckle is the metal part that the wheel hub and tie rod connect to.
Step 7: Separate the Tie Rod End from the Steering Knuckle
- Install the tie rod end puller over the tie rod end stud and steering knuckle.
- Tighten the tie rod end puller with the correct drive tool until the stud pops loose from the knuckle.
- Do not hit the steering knuckle hard with a hammer, because that can damage nearby parts.
- Tip: The pop sound is normal.
Step 8: Count Turns and Remove the Old Tie Rod End
- Use your hand and an adjustable wrench if needed to unscrew the old outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod.
- Count the exact number of turns it takes to remove it.
- Write the number down and compare it with your measurement from Step 4.
- Tip: Count half-turns if needed.
Step 9: Install the New Outer Tie Rod End
- Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the inner tie rod threads.
- Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod by hand the same number of turns counted during removal.
- Use the tape measure to verify the new tie rod end is close to the original measurement.
- Keep the jam nut near the original paint mark.
Step 10: Attach the Tie Rod End to the Steering Knuckle
- Insert the new tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
- Install the new nut by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 15mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the tie rod end nut to Torque to 48 Nm (35 ft-lbs).
- If equipped with a castle nut, continue tightening only enough to align the cotter pin hole, then install a new cotter pin with needle-nose pliers.
Step 11: Tighten the Jam Nut
- Hold the new outer tie rod end steady with an adjustable wrench.
- Use a 21mm open-end wrench to tighten the jam nut against the outer tie rod end.
- Torque the jam nut to Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs) if your torque wrench and wrench adapter can fit correctly.
- If you cannot fit a torque wrench, tighten the jam nut firmly with the 21mm open-end wrench, then have it checked during the alignment.
Step 12: Reinstall the Wheel
- Place the wheel back onto the hub.
- Install the lug nuts by hand first.
- Use the 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
Step 13: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts
- Use the floor jack to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands.
- Lower the vehicle fully to the ground with the floor jack.
- Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked and listen for binding, popping, or rubbing.
- Test drive slowly at first. The steering wheel may be off-center until alignment is completed.
- Schedule a professional front-end alignment immediately after the repair.
- After 25-50 miles, recheck the lug nut torque with a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
- If the vehicle pulls hard, the steering wheel is far off-center, or stability control warnings appear, stop driving and have the alignment checked.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $220-$420 per side including parts, labor, and alignment check
DIY Cost: $35-$90 per side for parts only, plus alignment
You Save: $120-$250 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.3 hours per side, plus alignment time.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.











