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2018 Ford Fusion
2013 - 2020 Ford Fusion
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How to Replace Outer Tie Rods 2013-2020 Ford Fusion

How to Replace Outer Tie Rods 2013-2020 Ford Fusion

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

2 Ton
2 Ton
Floor Jack
2 Ton
2 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2013-2020 Ford Fusion

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2013-2020 Ford Fusion

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

Orion
Orion

🔧 Fusion - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

This repair replaces a worn outer tie rod end, which connects the steering rack to the front wheel knuckle and helps aim the wheel when you steer. On your Fusion, replace the failed side, then get a professional wheel alignment immediately afterward to prevent tire wear and steering pull.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours per side


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface only. Never rely on a jack by itself.
  • ⚠️ Use jack stands before putting any part of your body near the wheel well.
  • ⚠️ Your Fusion Energi has high-voltage hybrid components, but this steering repair does not require high-voltage service. Do not touch orange high-voltage cables.
  • ⚠️ Do not hammer directly on the aluminum steering knuckle. Use a tie rod separator or strike the side of the knuckle carefully.
  • ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after replacement. Counting turns only gets you close enough to drive carefully to an alignment shop.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
  • Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • 19mm lug nut socket
  • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
  • 1/2-inch drive ratchet
  • Torque wrench 20-150 ft-lb range
  • Adjustable wrench 10-inch
  • 21mm open-end wrench
  • 18mm socket
  • 18mm wrench
  • Tie rod end puller (specialty)
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Paint marker
  • Tape measure
  • Wire brush
  • Penetrating oil
  • Anti-seize compound
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1 per side
  • Outer tie rod end castle nut or prevailing-torque nut - Qty: 1 per side
  • Cotter pin - Qty: 1 per side if equipped
  • Wheel alignment service - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Fusion on level ground with the steering wheel straight.
  • Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • Lightly loosen the front lug nuts before lifting the vehicle.
  • Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod jam nut and tie rod stud nut. Let it soak for 10-15 minutes.
  • A “jam nut” is the locking nut on the inner tie rod that holds the outer tie rod end in position.
  • A “tie rod end puller” is a small press tool that separates the tie rod stud from the steering knuckle without damaging the rubber boot.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel

  • Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about 1/2 turn.
  • Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
  • Loosen before lifting for safety.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Vehicle

  • Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum at the front jacking point to raise the front of your Fusion.
  • Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the proper front support points.
  • Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
  • Shake the vehicle lightly by hand to confirm it is stable.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel

  • Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the lug nuts.
  • Remove the wheel and set it flat under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Mark the Tie Rod Position

  • Use a wire brush to clean the threads where the outer tie rod end meets the jam nut.
  • Use a paint marker to draw a line across the inner tie rod threads, jam nut, and outer tie rod end.
  • Use a tape measure to measure from the jam nut face to the center of the tie rod stud. Write the measurement down.
  • This helps preserve rough alignment.

Step 5: Loosen the Jam Nut

  • Hold the outer tie rod end steady with an adjustable wrench 10-inch.
  • Use a 21mm open-end wrench to loosen the jam nut about 1/4 turn.
  • Do not spin the jam nut far down the threads. Keep it close to the original position.

Step 6: Remove the Tie Rod Stud Nut

  • If your replacement-style joint uses a cotter pin, use needle-nose pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod stud.
  • Use an 18mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the tie rod stud nut from the steering knuckle.
  • If the stud spins, hold the stud with an 18mm wrench while loosening the nut with the 18mm socket.

Step 7: Separate the Tie Rod End from the Knuckle

  • Install the tie rod end puller (specialty) over the tie rod end and steering knuckle.
  • Tighten the puller screw with the correct wrench from the puller kit until the tie rod stud pops free.
  • Keep your fingers away from the joint while it releases.
  • The pop sound is normal.

Step 8: Remove the Outer Tie Rod End

  • Turn the outer tie rod end counterclockwise by hand to unscrew it from the inner tie rod.
  • Count the exact number of turns as it comes off.
  • Write down the number of turns.
  • Use the adjustable wrench 10-inch only if it is too tight to turn by hand.

Step 9: Install the New Outer Tie Rod End

  • Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the inner tie rod threads. Do not put anti-seize on the tapered stud.
  • Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod by hand using the same number of turns counted during removal.
  • Line it up with the paint mark and measurement from Step 4 as closely as possible.

Step 10: Connect the Tie Rod End to the Steering Knuckle

  • Insert the new tie rod stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
  • Install the new nut by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use an 18mm socket and torque wrench 20-150 ft-lb range to tighten the tie rod stud nut to Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
  • If the new part uses a castle nut and cotter pin, tighten only enough to align the next slot, then install the new cotter pin with needle-nose pliers.

Step 11: Tighten the Jam Nut

  • Hold the outer tie rod end steady with an adjustable wrench 10-inch.
  • Use a 21mm open-end wrench to tighten the jam nut against the outer tie rod end.
  • Final-tighten the jam nut securely. If using a crowfoot torque setup, tighten to Torque to 63 Nm (46 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Reinstall the Wheel

  • Place the wheel back on the hub by hand.
  • Install the lug nuts by hand first.
  • Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 13: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

  • Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to raise the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
  • Lower your Fusion fully to the ground.
  • Use the 19mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 20-150 ft-lb range to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • Start your Fusion and turn the steering wheel slowly left and right. Listen for clunks or binding.
  • Drive slowly in a safe area first. Make sure the steering feels stable and the wheel returns normally.
  • Do not take a long trip before alignment. Drive directly to an alignment shop.
  • Have a professional front wheel alignment performed after replacing the tie rod end.
  • Recheck the lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using the 19mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 20-150 ft-lb range.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$420 per side including parts, labor, and alignment

DIY Cost: $35-$90 per side for parts, plus $90-$150 for alignment

You Save: $95-$180 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours plus alignment time.


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