How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2012-2018 Ford Focus
Step-by-step steering repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2012-2018 Ford Focus
Step-by-step steering repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
🔧 Focus - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement
This repair replaces the outer tie rod end, which connects the steering rack to the front wheel knuckle. A worn tie rod end can cause clunking, loose steering, uneven tire wear, or poor alignment.
Difficulty Level: Beginner-Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours per side
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support your Focus with jack stands before working under or near the vehicle. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ After replacing a tie rod end, your Focus needs a front wheel alignment. Driving without alignment can quickly damage tires.
- ⚠️ Do not hammer directly on the steering knuckle threads or tie rod threads.
- ⚠️ If the tie rod end stud spins while tightening, use upward pressure with a floor jack under the joint area carefully.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- 19mm lug nut socket
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive ratchet
- Metric wrench set 18mm-24mm
- Adjustable wrench 10-inch
- Needle-nose pliers
- Tie rod end puller (specialty)
- Ball joint separator (specialty)
- Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs
- Paint marker
- Tape measure
- Wire brush
- Penetrating oil spray
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1 per side
- Outer tie rod end castle nut or prevailing-torque nut - Qty: 1 per side
- Cotter pin - Qty: 1 per side, if supplied with replacement tie rod end
- Alignment service - Qty: 1 after repair
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Focus on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
- Work on one side at a time so the other side can be used for reference.
- A tie rod end puller is a tool that presses the tapered stud out of the steering knuckle without damaging the boot or threads.
- Mark and count the tie rod turns during removal. This helps keep the alignment close enough to drive slowly to an alignment shop.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel
- Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front lug nuts about half a turn.
- Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
- Tip: Loosen before lifting.
Step 2: Lift and Support your Focus
- Use a floor jack at the front jacking point to raise the vehicle.
- Place jack stands under the proper front support points.
- Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
- Keep the floor jack lightly touching as backup support, but do not rely on it alone.
Step 3: Remove the Wheel
- Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the lug nuts.
- Remove the wheel and set it flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.
Step 4: Clean and Mark the Tie Rod Position
- Use a wire brush to clean the exposed threads near the outer tie rod end.
- Spray the jam nut and threads with penetrating oil spray.
- Use a paint marker to mark the position of the outer tie rod end on the inner tie rod threads.
- Use a tape measure to measure from the center of the tie rod end stud to a fixed point on the inner tie rod, if accessible.
- Tip: Photos help during reassembly.
Step 5: Loosen the Jam Nut
- The jam nut is the locking nut that holds the outer tie rod end in position on the threaded inner tie rod.
- Use the correct size metric wrench from 18mm-24mm on the jam nut.
- Use an adjustable wrench 10-inch on the flat area of the outer tie rod end if needed.
- Turn the jam nut loose about 1/4 turn only. Do not move it far from its original position.
Step 6: Remove the Tie Rod End Nut
- Straighten and remove the cotter pin with needle-nose pliers, if your replacement style uses a castle nut and cotter pin.
- Use the correct size metric wrench from 18mm-24mm or socket to remove the tie rod end retaining nut from the steering knuckle.
- If the stud spins, apply light upward pressure under the tie rod end with the floor jack, then loosen the nut again with the wrench.
Step 7: Separate the Tie Rod End from the Steering Knuckle
- Install the tie rod end puller (specialty) over the tie rod end stud and steering knuckle.
- Tighten the puller with the appropriate metric wrench from 18mm-24mm until the stud pops free.
- If using a ball joint separator (specialty), place it between the tie rod end and steering knuckle and press the joint loose.
- Do not strike the threaded stud directly with a hammer.
Step 8: Unscrew the Old Outer Tie Rod End
- Use the paint marker to make a final reference mark across the old tie rod end and threads.
- Turn the old outer tie rod end counterclockwise by hand or with an adjustable wrench 10-inch.
- Count the exact number of turns needed to remove it.
- Write the number down before installing the new part.
- Tip: Count full and half turns.
Step 9: Install the New Outer Tie Rod End
- Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod by hand.
- Use the same number of turns counted during removal.
- Line it up with the paint mark and measurement as closely as possible.
- Keep the jam nut loose for now.
Step 10: Seat the Tie Rod End in the Steering Knuckle
- Insert the new tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
- Install the new retaining nut by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs with the correct metric socket or wrench adapter to tighten the tie rod end retaining nut.
- Torque to 48 Nm (35 ft-lbs), then tighten an additional 90 degrees if using a new prevailing-torque nut.
- If using a castle nut and cotter pin style, torque to 48 Nm (35 ft-lbs), then tighten slightly more only as needed to align the cotter pin hole. Do not loosen to align.
- Install the new cotter pin with needle-nose pliers, if applicable.
Step 11: Tighten the Jam Nut
- Hold the outer tie rod end steady with an adjustable wrench 10-inch.
- Use the correct size metric wrench from 18mm-24mm to tighten the jam nut against the outer tie rod end.
- Torque to 63 Nm (46 ft-lbs) if your torque wrench and wrench adapter can access it.
- If access is limited, tighten it firmly while holding the tie rod end so the adjustment does not move.
Step 12: Reinstall the Wheel
- Place the wheel back on the hub.
- Start all lug nuts by hand.
- Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
Step 13: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts
- Use the floor jack to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands.
- Lower your Focus to the ground.
- Use the torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs and 19mm lug nut socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Turn the steering wheel slowly from left to right while parked and listen for binding or popping.
- Check that the steering wheel is close to centered before driving.
- Drive slowly at first. If the steering pulls badly or the wheel is far off-center, stop and recheck the tie rod position.
- Schedule a professional front wheel alignment as soon as possible.
- After 25-50 miles, visually recheck the tie rod end nut, jam nut, and wheel lug nuts.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$350 per side before alignment
DIY Cost: $25-$90 per side in parts
You Save: $120-$260 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours per side.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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