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2013 Subaru Outback
2000 - 2023 Subaru Outback
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How to Replace Front Outer Tie Rods 2015-2019 Subaru Outback

How to Replace Front Outer Tie Rods 2015-2019 Subaru Outback

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

2 Ton
2 Ton
Floor Jack
2 Ton
2 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2000-2023 Subaru Outback

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes for 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023

How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2000-2023 Subaru Outback

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes for 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023

Orion
Orion

🔧 Outback - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

This repair replaces the outer tie rod end, which connects the steering rack to the front wheel knuckle. A worn tie rod end can cause loose steering, clunking, uneven tire wear, or poor alignment.

Difficulty Level: Beginner-Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours per side


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support your Outback with jack stands before working underneath. Never rely on a jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Replace tie rod ends in pairs if both sides show wear or if mileage is high.
  • ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after this repair, even if you count the turns carefully.
  • ⚠️ Do not hammer directly on the steering knuckle threads or the new tie rod end stud.
  • ⚠️ Keep the steering wheel centered while working to avoid changing the steering position too much.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 19mm lug nut socket
  • Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
  • Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
  • 17mm wrench
  • 19mm wrench
  • 19mm socket
  • Ratchet 1/2-inch drive
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Tie rod end puller (specialty)
  • Paint marker
  • Tape measure
  • Penetrating oil
  • Wire brush
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1 per side
  • Outer tie rod end castle nut - Qty: 1 per side
  • Cotter pin - Qty: 1 per side

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Outback on level ground and set the parking brake.
  • Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • Point the front wheels straight ahead before lifting the vehicle.
  • Spray penetrating oil on the outer tie rod end jam nut and ball joint nut, then let it soak for several minutes.
  • A jam nut is the locking nut on the inner tie rod that holds the outer tie rod end in position.
  • A ball joint stud is the tapered pin on the tie rod end that locks into the steering knuckle.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

  • Use a 19mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about half a turn.
  • Do this while the tire is still touching the ground so the wheel does not spin.
  • Loosen only; do not remove yet.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front of the Vehicle

  • Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front of your Outback at the front center jacking point.
  • Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the front pinch weld or approved front support points.
  • Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
  • Keep the floor jack lightly touching the lift point as a backup.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel

  • Use the 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to remove the lug nuts.
  • Remove the wheel and place it flat under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Mark and Measure the Tie Rod Position

  • Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the outer tie rod end, jam nut, and inner tie rod threads.
  • Use a tape measure to measure from the jam nut face to the center of the tie rod end stud.
  • Write the measurement down before removal.
  • This helps keep the alignment close enough to drive carefully to an alignment shop.
  • Counting turns helps, but alignment is still required.

Step 5: Loosen the Jam Nut

  • Use a wire brush to clean the exposed threads around the jam nut.
  • Use penetrating oil on the jam nut if it is rusty.
  • Use a 19mm wrench on the jam nut and a 17mm wrench on the tie rod end flats if needed.
  • Loosen the jam nut about one turn, but do not move it far from its original position.

Step 6: Remove the Cotter Pin and Castle Nut

  • Use needle-nose pliers to straighten and pull out the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud.
  • Use a 19mm socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to remove the castle nut from the tie rod end stud.
  • A castle nut has slots at the top so a cotter pin can lock it in place.
  • If the stud spins, apply light upward pressure with the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum under the tie rod end while loosening the nut.

Step 7: Separate the Tie Rod End from the Steering Knuckle

  • Install the tie rod end puller over the steering knuckle and tie rod end stud.
  • A tie rod end puller is a small press tool that pushes the stud out without damaging the rubber boot or knuckle.
  • Tighten the puller with a 19mm socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive until the tie rod end pops free.
  • Do not hit the threaded stud with a hammer.

Step 8: Remove the Old Outer Tie Rod End

  • Turn the outer tie rod end counterclockwise by hand to remove it from the inner tie rod.
  • Count the exact number of turns during removal.
  • Leave the jam nut close to the marked position.
  • Compare the old and new tie rod ends side by side before installing.

Step 9: Install the New Outer Tie Rod End

  • Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod by hand.
  • Use the same number of turns counted during removal.
  • Line it up with the paint mark and measurement you recorded.
  • Do not tighten the jam nut yet.

Step 10: Connect the Tie Rod End to the Steering Knuckle

  • Insert the new tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
  • Install the new castle nut.
  • Use a 19mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the castle nut to Torque to 37 Nm (27 ft-lbs).
  • If the cotter pin hole does not line up, tighten the nut slightly more until the next slot lines up. Do not loosen the nut to align the hole.
  • Use needle-nose pliers to install and bend the new cotter pin securely.

Step 11: Tighten the Jam Nut

  • Hold the new outer tie rod end steady with a 17mm wrench.
  • Use a 19mm wrench to tighten the jam nut against the outer tie rod end.
  • Tighten the jam nut to Torque to 83 Nm (61 ft-lbs) if using a suitable torque wrench setup.
  • If using hand tools only, tighten it firmly without twisting the tie rod end out of position.

Step 12: Reinstall the Wheel

  • Place the wheel back on the hub by hand.
  • Install the lug nuts finger-tight.
  • Use the 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 13: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

  • Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
  • Lower your Outback until the tire touches the ground.
  • Use a 19mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Turn the steering wheel slowly from left to right and check that nothing binds or rubs.
  • ✅ Test drive slowly at first and listen for clunks or looseness.
  • ✅ Schedule a front wheel alignment immediately. This repair changes toe angle, which affects tire wear and steering.
  • ✅ Recheck the jam nut and cotter pin after the first short drive.
  • ✅ Avoid highway speeds until the alignment is completed.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$420 per side including parts, labor, and basic alignment-related labor

DIY Cost: $35-$95 per side for parts only

You Save: $150-$300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours per side, plus alignment.


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