🔧 Forester - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

This repair replaces a worn outer tie rod end, which connects the steering rack to the front wheel knuckle and helps steer your Forester. A bad tie rod end can cause clunking, loose steering, uneven tire wear, or wandering on the road.

Difficulty Level: Beginner to Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours per side

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always support your Forester with jack stands before working under or around the front suspension.
• ⚠️ Do not rely on a floor jack alone. A floor jack lifts the vehicle; jack stands hold it safely.
• ⚠️ The steering alignment will be disturbed. Your Forester needs a professional wheel alignment after this repair.
• ⚠️ Replace tie rod ends in pairs if both sides show wear or if mileage is high, but one side can be replaced if only one is damaged.
• ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 19mm lug nut socket
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Needle-nose pliers
• 17mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• 19mm socket
• Ratchet 1/2-inch drive
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Penetrating oil spray
• Wire brush
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1 per side
• Cotter pin - Qty: 1 per side
• Castle nut - Qty: 1 per side, if not included with tie rod end
• Alignment service - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Forester on level ground and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🔎 Inspect which side is worn. The outer tie rod end is the joint at the steering knuckle, just behind the front brake rotor area.
• 🧴 Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod jam nut and ball stud nut before starting. Let it soak for a few minutes.
• 📏 A jam nut is the lock nut on the threaded steering rod. It holds the tie rod end position for alignment.
• 📌 Count the number of turns when removing the old tie rod end. This helps keep the alignment close enough to drive carefully to an alignment shop.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to slightly loosen the front wheel lug nuts before lifting your Forester.
• Turn each lug nut about 1/2 turn only. Do not remove them yet.
• Loosen before lifting for safety.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front of the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the proper front support points.
• Lower your Forester gently onto the jack stands.
• Keep the floor jack lightly touching the jacking point as a backup, but do not rely on it alone.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel

• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove the wheel and set it flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Clean and Mark the Tie Rod Position

• Use a wire brush to clean the exposed threads near the outer tie rod end.
• Use a paint marker to mark the jam nut position on the threaded inner tie rod.
• Use a tape measure to measure from the jam nut face to the center of the tie rod end ball stud. Write this measurement down.
• This helps preserve rough alignment.

Step 5: Loosen the Jam Nut

• Use a 19mm wrench on the jam nut.
• Hold the tie rod end steady with a 17mm wrench if it tries to move.
• Loosen the jam nut about 1/4 turn only. Do not spin it far away from your paint mark.
• If rusty, apply more penetrating oil spray and work slowly.

Step 6: Remove the Cotter Pin

• Use needle-nose pliers to straighten and pull out the cotter pin from the castle nut.
• A cotter pin is a small bent safety pin that prevents the nut from backing off.
• Discard the old cotter pin. Do not reuse it.

Step 7: Remove the Tie Rod End Nut

• Use a 19mm socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to remove the castle nut from the tie rod end ball stud.
• A castle nut has slots in the top for the cotter pin.
• If the stud spins, press upward on the tie rod end by hand while loosening the nut with the 19mm socket.

Step 8: Separate the Tie Rod End from the Steering Knuckle

• Install the tie rod end puller (specialty) over the tie rod end and steering knuckle.
• Tighten the puller with the correct drive from your tool until the tapered stud pops free.
• A tapered stud is a cone-shaped joint that locks tightly into the steering knuckle.
• Do not hammer directly on the threaded stud if you plan to compare it to the new part.

Step 9: Count Turns and Remove the Old Tie Rod End

• Use your hand to unscrew the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod.
• Count each full turn as you remove it. Write the number down.
• Example: if it takes 18 turns to remove, install the new one about 18 turns.
• Counting turns protects the tires.

Step 10: Install the New Tie Rod End

• Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod by hand using the same number of turns counted during removal.
• Line it up with the paint mark and your measurement from Step 4.
• Do not fully tighten the jam nut yet.

Step 11: Seat the Tie Rod End in the Steering Knuckle

• Insert the new tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
• Install the castle nut by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 19mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the tie rod end castle nut to Torque to 37 Nm (27 ft-lbs).
• If the cotter pin hole does not line up, tighten the nut slightly farther until the hole aligns. Do not loosen the nut to align the hole.

Step 12: Install the New Cotter Pin

• Slide the new cotter pin through the tie rod end stud.
• Use needle-nose pliers to bend the cotter pin ends around the castle nut.
• Make sure the cotter pin cannot fall out.

Step 13: Tighten the Jam Nut

• Hold the outer tie rod end steady with a 17mm wrench.
• Use a 19mm wrench to tighten the jam nut against the tie rod end.
• Tighten the tie rod end jam nut to Torque to 83 Nm (61 ft-lbs).
• If using only hand wrenches, tighten it firmly, then have the alignment shop verify final torque.

Step 14: Reinstall the Wheel

• Place the wheel back on the hub.
• Install the lug nuts by hand first.
• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 15: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift your Forester slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
• Lower the vehicle fully to the ground.
• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Turn the steering wheel left and right while parked. Listen for rubbing, binding, or popping.
• ✅ Take a slow test drive around the block. Keep speed low and check that the steering feels normal.
• ✅ Schedule a professional wheel alignment immediately. The toe angle must be set correctly to prevent tire wear and poor handling.
• ✅ Recheck the lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a 19mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive.
• ✅ If the steering wheel is badly off-center or the vehicle pulls hard, do not continue driving except directly to an alignment shop.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 per side including parts, labor, and basic alignment adjustment

DIY Cost: $35-$90 per side for parts only, plus alignment

You Save: $120-$250 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours per side, plus alignment time.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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