🔧 Forester - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

This repair replaces the outer tie rod end, which connects the steering rack to the steering knuckle and lets the wheels turn left and right. A worn tie rod end can cause loose steering, clunking, uneven tire wear, or poor alignment.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours per side

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always support your Forester with jack stands before working under or near the vehicle.
• ⚠️ Do not rely on a floor jack alone. A floor jack lifts the vehicle; jack stands hold it safely.
• ⚠️ Replace tie rod ends in pairs if both sides show wear, and always get a wheel alignment afterward.
• ⚠️ Count the turns when removing the old tie rod end. This helps keep the alignment close enough to drive to an alignment shop.
• ⚠️ Do not heat steering parts with a torch. Excessive heat can damage steering components and boots.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 19mm lug nut socket
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
• 17mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• 19mm socket
• Needle-nose pliers
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Ball-peen hammer
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Penetrating oil
• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1 per side
• Outer tie rod end castle nut - Qty: 1 per side
• Outer tie rod end cotter pin - Qty: 1 per side
• Wheel alignment service - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Forester on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
• Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod jam nut and tie rod end stud nut. Let it soak for a few minutes.
• A jam nut is the locking nut on the threaded steering rod that keeps the tie rod end from turning.
• A cotter pin is a small bent metal safety pin that keeps the castle nut from loosening.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about 1/2 turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Loosen while the tire is grounded.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front of the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front of your Forester at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the front side support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Give the vehicle a light push to confirm it is stable before removing the wheel.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel

• Use the 19mm lug nut socket to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove the wheel and place it flat under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Mark the Tie Rod Position

• Use a paint marker to mark the threads where the outer tie rod end meets the jam nut.
• Use a tape measure to measure from the jam nut to the center of the tie rod end stud.
• Write this measurement down before removing anything.
• This helps preserve the rough alignment.

Step 5: Loosen the Jam Nut

• Use a 19mm wrench on the jam nut and a 17mm wrench on the flats of the outer tie rod end if needed.
• Turn the jam nut counterclockwise just enough to break it loose.
• Do not spin the jam nut far away from its original position.

Step 6: Remove the Cotter Pin and Castle Nut

• Use needle-nose pliers to straighten and pull out the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud.
• Use a 19mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen and remove the castle nut.
• If the cotter pin is rusty and breaks, remove all pieces before taking off the nut.

Step 7: Separate the Tie Rod End from the Steering Knuckle

• Install the tie rod end puller over the steering knuckle and tie rod end stud.
• Tighten the puller with the correct wrench from the puller kit until the stud pops loose.
• If needed, tap the side of the steering knuckle with a ball-peen hammer while tension is on the puller.
• Do not hit the threaded stud if you plan to compare or reuse it as a reference.

Step 8: Unscrew the Old Outer Tie Rod End

• Use your hand to rotate the outer tie rod end counterclockwise off the inner tie rod threads.
• Count the exact number of turns it takes to remove it.
• Write down the number of turns.
• Turn count is your alignment backup.

Step 9: Install the New Outer Tie Rod End

• Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod by hand.
• Use the same number of turns you counted during removal.
• Line it up with the paint mark and measurement you recorded earlier.
• Keep the jam nut loose until the stud is installed in the steering knuckle.

Step 10: Install the Tie Rod End into the Steering Knuckle

• Insert the tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
• Install the new castle nut by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 19mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the castle nut to Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).
• If the cotter pin hole does not line up, tighten the castle nut slightly more until it lines up. Do not loosen the nut to align the hole.

Step 11: Install the New Cotter Pin

• Slide the new cotter pin through the hole in the tie rod end stud.
• Use needle-nose pliers to bend the cotter pin ends around the castle nut.
• Make sure the cotter pin cannot fall out.

Step 12: Tighten the Jam Nut

• Use a 19mm wrench to tighten the jam nut against the outer tie rod end.
• Hold the outer tie rod end steady with a 17mm wrench if it tries to turn.
• Tighten the jam nut firmly to lock the adjustment in place.

Step 13: Reinstall the Wheel

• Place the wheel back on the hub.
• Install the lug nuts by hand first.
• Use the 19mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 14: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
• Lower the vehicle to the ground.
• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start your Forester and turn the steering wheel slowly left and right to confirm smooth movement.
• ✅ Test drive slowly at first. Listen for clunks and check that the steering wheel returns normally.
• ✅ If the steering wheel is off-center or the vehicle pulls, drive carefully and schedule an alignment right away.
• ✅ A professional wheel alignment is required after tie rod end replacement to prevent tire wear and steering issues.
• ✅ Recheck the lug nut torque after 25-50 miles: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 per side, plus alignment

DIY Cost: $30-$90 per side, plus alignment

You Save: $100-$250 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.5 hours per side.

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