How to Replace the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor on a 2013 Honda Accord
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and key torque specs for 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
How to Replace the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor on a 2013 Honda Accord
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and key torque specs for 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
🔧 Accord - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Replacement
The MAF sensor measures how much air enters your engine so the computer can add the right amount of fuel. A failing MAF can cause rough idle, hesitation, poor fuel economy, or a check engine light. On your Accord, it’s mounted in the air intake tube/air cleaner outlet right after the air filter box.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.3-0.8 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work with the engine off and cool to avoid burns.
- ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the intake tube; don’t drop screws into it.
- ⚠️ If you disconnect the battery, you may need an idle relearn afterward.
- ⚠️ Never touch the sensor element (the delicate wire/film) with fingers or tools.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 3" extension (1/4" drive)
- Phillips #2 screwdriver
- Torx T20 screwdriver
- Small flat trim/pick tool
- Inch-pound torque wrench (in-lb)
- Shop towel
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Mass air flow (MAF) sensor - Qty: 1
- MAF sensor O-ring/seal (if not included with sensor) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and turn the ignition OFF.
- Open the hood and locate the intake tube and air filter box on the driver side of the engine bay.
- If you choose to disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Locate the MAF sensor
- Look at the air intake tube right after the air filter box; the MAF is the small module with an electrical connector.
- Use a shop towel to wipe loose dust around the area so nothing falls inside.
Step 2: Unplug the electrical connector
- Use a small flat trim/pick tool to gently lift the locking tab if it’s stuck (don’t pry hard).
- Pull the connector straight back (do not pull on the wires).
Step 3: Remove the MAF mounting screws
- Use a Phillips #2 screwdriver if the screw heads are Phillips, or a Torx T20 screwdriver if they are Torx.
- Place the screws on a shop towel so they don’t get lost.
Step 4: Remove the MAF sensor
- Gently twist and pull the sensor straight out by its plastic body.
- If it resists, wiggle—don’t force.
- Do not touch the sensing element inside the opening.
Step 5: Check the seal and seating surface
- Inspect the sensor O-ring/seal; replace it if it’s torn, flattened, or missing.
- Use a shop towel to clean the seating surface (no debris, no old rubber stuck).
Step 6: Install the new MAF sensor
- Align it the same direction as the old sensor and slide it straight in until fully seated.
- Reinstall the screws by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use an inch-pound torque wrench (in-lb) to tighten the screws: Torque to 31 in-lb (3.5 N·m).
Step 7: Reconnect the electrical connector
- Push the connector in until it clicks/locks.
- Gently tug to confirm it’s latched.
Step 8: If battery was disconnected, reconnect it
- Reconnect the negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
- Tighten securely: Torque to 44 in-lb (5.0 N·m).
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle; confirm the idle is steady and there are no intake air leaks (hissing).
- If the check engine light was on, use a scan tool to clear codes and verify none return.
- If you disconnected the battery and the idle hunts: warm the engine fully, turn all accessories OFF, and let it idle for about 5 minutes without touching the throttle.
- Take a short test drive and confirm normal acceleration and no warning lights.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$380 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$220 (parts only)
You Save: $120-$160 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















