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2019 Ford Explorer
2013 - 2015 Ford Explorer
Inline 4 2.0L
Compatible with more variants.
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How to Replace Fuel Pump & Transfer Unit 2011-2019 Ford Explorer 3.5L

How to Replace Fuel Pump & Transfer Unit 2011-2019 Ford Explorer 3.5L

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8mm
8mm
Socket
or (5/16")
1/2
1/2
Ratchet
1/2
1/2
Torque Wrench
Trim
Trim
Tool
3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
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How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2019 Ford Explorer

Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for 2013, 2014, 2015

How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2019 Ford Explorer

Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for 2013, 2014, 2015

Orion
Orion

🔧 Fuel Pump - Replacement

The fuel pump on your Explorer is inside the fuel tank, so the tank must be lowered to replace the pump module. This is a messy, safety-sensitive job because you’ll be working with fuel vapors, fuel lines, and a heavy tank.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • Work only in a well-ventilated area away from sparks, flames, and heaters.
  • Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting.
  • Relieve fuel system pressure before opening any fuel lines.
  • Fuel may still spill when the lines are disconnected; wear eye protection and gloves.
  • The fuel tank is heavy and awkward. Use a transmission jack or a sturdy floor jack with a wide support surface.
  • Keep the tank as close to empty as possible before removal.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Fuel line disconnect tool set
  • Socket set 8mm-18mm
  • Ratchet and extensions
  • Torque wrench
  • Flat trim tool
  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated for vehicle weight)
  • Transmission jack or wide-support jack
  • Fuel-safe drain pan
  • Brass punch
  • Non-sparking hammer
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Shop rags

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Fuel pump module - Qty: 1
  • Fuel tank seal ring - Qty: 1
  • Fuel filter sock - Qty: 1
  • Fuel tank straps, if corroded or damaged - Qty: 2
  • Fuel line O-rings / seals - Qty: 1 set
  • Evaporative emission hose seals, if equipped - Qty: 1 set

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
  • Run the tank low before starting. Less fuel makes the tank easier and safer to lower.
  • Disconnect the negative battery cable using an 8mm socket.
  • Relieve fuel pressure at the service point if equipped, or follow the fuel pump fuse/relay pressure bleed procedure.
  • Label every hose before disconnecting.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve fuel system pressure

  • Use the correct fuel pressure bleed procedure for the fuel system before disconnecting lines.
  • If using a scan tool or fuse method, make sure the engine stalls and cranks briefly with pressure relieved.
  • Open the fuel filler cap carefully after pressure is relieved.

Step 2: Disconnect the battery

  • Use an 8mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
  • Move the cable aside so it cannot touch the terminal.

Step 3: Raise and support the vehicle

  • Use a floor jack and jack stands to raise and support the Explorer safely.
  • Make sure the vehicle is stable before working underneath it.

Step 4: Remove underbody shields and supporting components

  • Use the correct socket set and ratchet to remove any shields blocking the fuel tank.
  • On AWD models, inspect for exhaust and driveshaft clearance. Remove any components that prevent safe tank removal.

Step 5: Support the fuel tank

  • Place a transmission jack or wide-support jack under the fuel tank.
  • Raise it just enough to hold the tank securely.
  • Never let the tank hang by the hoses.

Step 6: Disconnect filler and vent hoses

  • Use a flat trim tool if clamps or retainers need gentle release.
  • Disconnect the fuel filler neck, vent hoses, and evaporative lines.
  • Mark each connection so it goes back in the correct place.

Step 7: Disconnect electrical connectors and fuel lines

  • Use a fuel line disconnect tool set to release the fuel supply and return lines.
  • Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector.
  • Have a fuel-safe drain pan and shop rags ready for spill control.

Step 8: Lower the fuel tank

  • Use the socket set and ratchet to remove the tank strap bolts.
  • Lower the tank slowly with the jack.
  • Check one more time that no hose or wire is still attached.

Step 9: Remove the fuel pump module

  • Clean the top of the tank with shop air or a brush before opening it.
  • Use a brass punch and non-sparking hammer to remove the lock ring if the design uses one.
  • Lift the old fuel pump module out carefully.
  • Remove the old seal ring from the tank.

Step 10: Install the new fuel pump module

  • Install the new fuel tank seal ring on the tank opening.
  • Lower the new fuel pump module into place in the same orientation as the old one.
  • Install and lock the retaining ring fully.
  • Torque the retaining ring to factory specification if a torque spec is provided by the service procedure.

Step 11: Reinstall the fuel tank

  • Raise the tank slowly with the jack.
  • Reconnect the fuel lines with the fuel line disconnect tool set.
  • Reconnect the electrical connector, filler neck, vent hoses, and EVAP lines.
  • Reinstall the tank straps and tighten the strap bolts.
  • Torque the tank strap bolts to factory specification.

Step 12: Reinstall shields and lower the vehicle

  • Reinstall all shields and removed parts using the correct socket set.
  • Lower the Explorer off the jack stands.
  • Reconnect the negative battery cable with an 8mm socket.

✅ After Repair

  • Cycle the key to ON several times before starting to prime the fuel system.
  • Check carefully for fuel leaks at the tank, lines, and filler neck.
  • Start the engine and let it idle while watching for leaks or fuel smell.
  • Clear any fuel system codes with a scan tool if needed.
  • If the fuel gauge reads incorrectly, verify connector seating and scan for related faults.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,700 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$1,050 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-7 hours.


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