🔧 Expedition - Fuel Pump Replacement

The fuel pump on your Expedition is mounted inside the fuel tank as part of the fuel pump module. Replacing it requires lowering the fuel tank, disconnecting fuel and electrical lines, removing the pump locking ring, and installing a new pump module with a new tank seal.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-6 hours

Assumption: This procedure is for the in-tank fuel pump module on your stock 4WD Expedition.

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Gasoline is extremely flammable. Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area away from flames, heaters, sparks, cigarettes, and hot work lights.
• ⚠️ Relieve fuel system pressure before disconnecting any fuel line.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before lowering the fuel tank.
• ⚠️ Support the fuel tank with a transmission jack or floor jack and wide wood block. Never let the tank hang by hoses or wiring.
• ⚠️ Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby. A Class B extinguisher is made for flammable liquids like gasoline.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and fuel-resistant gloves. Fuel can irritate skin and seriously injure eyes.
• ⚠️ The tank is heavy. Run the fuel level as low as possible before starting.
• ⚠️ Do not use steel punches or chisels on the fuel pump lock ring. Use a non-sparking brass drift or the proper lock ring tool.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 3/8-inch drive extension set
• Torque wrench 10-100 ft-lbs
• Fuel line disconnect tool set 3/8-inch and 5/16-inch
• Fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty)
• Brass drift punch (specialty)
• Plastic trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver 1/4-inch tip
• Needle-nose pliers 6-inch
• Transmission jack 1,000-lb rated
• Floor jack 3-ton rated
• Jack stands 3-ton rated
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block 12-inch by 12-inch
• Drain pan 2-gallon
• Shop towels
• Fuel-safe marker
• Safety glasses
• Fuel-resistant gloves
• Class B fire extinguisher

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
• Fuel tank pump seal/O-ring - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump lock ring - Qty: 1
• Fuel line retaining clips - Qty: As needed
• Fuel-safe shop towels - Qty: 1 pack

---

📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Expedition on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the front wheels with wheel chocks.
• ⛽ Run the tank close to empty. A full tank is too heavy and dangerous to lower.
• 🔋 Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery cable with a 10mm socket. Move the cable aside so it cannot touch the battery post.
• 🧯 Place a Class B fire extinguisher within reach before opening the fuel system.
• 🧰 A fuel line disconnect tool releases spring-lock fuel fittings without damaging the connector.
• 🧰 A fuel pump lock ring tool turns the large metal retaining ring that holds the pump module in the tank.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve Fuel System Pressure

• Open the hood and locate the battery junction box.
• Use the fuse box cover diagram to find the fuel pump fuse or relay.
• Use needle-nose pliers 6-inch to remove the fuel pump fuse or relay.
• Start the engine and let it run until it stalls. This uses up the pressurized fuel in the lines.
• Crank the engine for 2-3 seconds once more, then turn the ignition off.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
• Keep sparks far away.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Vehicle

• Place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
• Use a floor jack 3-ton rated to raise the rear of your Expedition at the approved rear lift point.
• Place jack stands 3-ton rated under the rear frame support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands and shake it lightly by hand to confirm it is stable.
• Keep the floor jack 3-ton rated nearby for supporting parts as needed.

Step 3: Remove Fuel Tank Shield or Underbody Covers

• Slide under the rear/center area and identify any fuel tank shield or underbody cover below the tank.
• Use an 8mm socket, 10mm socket, or 13mm socket as fitted to remove the cover fasteners.
• Use a plastic trim clip removal tool for plastic retainers if equipped.
• Set the cover and fasteners aside in order.

Step 4: Support the Fuel Tank

• Position a transmission jack 1,000-lb rated under the center of the fuel tank.
• Place a wood block 12-inch by 12-inch between the jack and tank to spread the load.
• Raise the jack just enough to touch and support the tank. Do not lift the vehicle.
• If using a floor jack instead, use a floor jack 3-ton rated with the same wood block and work very slowly.

Step 5: Disconnect Fuel Filler and Vent Hoses

• At the filler neck side of the tank, use a flathead screwdriver 1/4-inch tip or 8mm socket to loosen the filler hose clamp if equipped.
• Use needle-nose pliers 6-inch to release spring clamps on smaller vapor hoses if equipped.
• Twist hoses gently by hand to break them loose, then pull them off the tank fittings.
• Mark hose positions with a fuel-safe marker before removal so they go back in the same place.
• Label before disconnecting.

Step 6: Disconnect Fuel Lines and Electrical Connectors

• Place a drain pan 2-gallon under the fuel line area.
• Wrap the line connection with shop towels to catch small fuel drips.
• Use the fuel line disconnect tool set 3/8-inch and 5/16-inch to release the quick-connect fuel line fittings.
• Press the electrical connector lock tab by hand, then unplug the fuel pump module connector.
• Use a flathead screwdriver 1/4-inch tip only if a connector lock needs gentle help. Do not pry hard.
• Inspect fuel line retaining clips and replace any broken clips.

Step 7: Lower the Fuel Tank

• Use a 15mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, and 3/8-inch drive extension set to remove the fuel tank strap bolts.
• Keep one hand on the tank or have a helper steady it while the straps come loose.
• Slowly lower the transmission jack 1,000-lb rated a few inches at a time.
• Stop often and check for any remaining hoses, lines, or wires still attached.
• Lower the tank enough to access the top fuel pump module area safely.

Step 8: Clean Around the Fuel Pump Module

• Use shop towels to wipe dirt from the top of the tank around the pump module.
• Use a fuel-safe marker to mark the pump module position relative to the tank.
• Do not let dirt fall into the tank. Dirt can damage the new pump and injectors.

Step 9: Remove the Fuel Pump Lock Ring

• Fit the fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) onto the lock ring tabs.
• Turn the lock ring counterclockwise with a 3/8-inch drive ratchet until it releases.
• If a lock ring tool is not available, use a brass drift punch (specialty) and tap gently with controlled force on the ring tabs.
• Remove the lock ring and set it aside if replacing it.
• Never use a steel punch.

Step 10: Remove the Old Fuel Pump Module

• Lift the pump module straight up by hand.
• Tilt it slowly to clear the fuel level float arm. The float arm is the small moving arm that measures fuel level.
• Let fuel drain from the module back into the tank before removing it fully.
• Remove the old fuel tank pump seal/O-ring by hand and discard it.
• Wipe the sealing surface with shop towels.

Step 11: Install the New Fuel Pump Module

• Install the new fuel tank pump seal/O-ring into the tank opening groove by hand.
• Lower the new fuel pump module assembly into the tank carefully.
• Guide the float arm into the tank without bending it.
• Align the marks you made with the fuel-safe marker.
• Install the new fuel pump lock ring by hand until it sits evenly.
• Use the fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to turn the lock ring clockwise until fully seated against the tank stops.

Step 12: Raise the Fuel Tank and Reconnect Lines

• Use the transmission jack 1,000-lb rated to slowly raise the tank partway.
• Reconnect the electrical connector by hand until it clicks.
• Reconnect the fuel lines by hand until each quick-connect fitting clicks into place.
• Gently tug each fuel line by hand to confirm it is locked.
• Reconnect vapor hoses and filler hoses using needle-nose pliers 6-inch, flathead screwdriver 1/4-inch tip, or 8mm socket as needed.

Step 13: Reinstall Fuel Tank Straps

• Raise the tank fully into position with the transmission jack 1,000-lb rated.
• Install the tank straps and start the bolts by hand first to prevent cross-threading.
• Use a 15mm socket and torque wrench 10-100 ft-lbs to tighten the fuel tank strap bolts.
• Torque to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs) unless the service label or replacement hardware specifies otherwise.

Step 14: Reinstall Shields and Covers

• Reinstall the fuel tank shield or underbody covers.
• Use an 8mm socket, 10mm socket, or 13mm socket to reinstall the fasteners.
• Tighten small shield fasteners snugly. Do not overtighten plastic or thin shield hardware.

Step 15: Reconnect Battery and Prime the Fuel System

• Reinstall the fuel pump fuse or relay using needle-nose pliers 6-inch.
• Reconnect the negative battery cable with a 10mm socket.
• Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs) for the battery terminal clamp.
• Turn the ignition to ON without starting the engine for 5 seconds, then turn it OFF.
• Repeat this ON/OFF cycle 3-4 times to prime the new pump.
• Check under the vehicle with a flashlight for leaks before starting.

Step 16: Start and Leak Check

• Start the engine and let it idle.
• Use safety glasses and fuel-resistant gloves while checking around the tank and fuel line connections.
• Look and smell for fuel leaks. Shut the engine off immediately if you see or smell fuel.
• Lower your Expedition from the jack stands 3-ton rated using the floor jack 3-ton rated.

---

✅ After Repair

• ✅ Let the engine idle for several minutes and confirm it runs smoothly.
• ✅ Check the fuel gauge reading. It should respond normally after the new module is installed.
• ✅ Take a short test drive, then recheck for fuel smell or leaks near the tank.
• ✅ If the engine cranks but does not start, recheck the pump electrical connector, fuel pump fuse/relay, and fuel line connections.
• ✅ If a check engine light appears, scan for codes before replacing more parts.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$950 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.