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2017 Ford Explorer
2013 - 2015 Ford Explorer
Inline 4 2.0L
Compatible with more variants.
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How to Replace Fuel Pump & Transfer Unit 2011-2019 Ford Explorer 3.5L

How to Replace Fuel Pump & Transfer Unit 2011-2019 Ford Explorer 3.5L

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
13mm
13mm
Socket
or (1/2")
15mm
15mm
Socket
or (9/16")
1/2
1/2
Ratchet
10"
10"
Extension
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How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2017 Ford Explorer

Step-by-step fuel tank removal, tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for 2013, 2014, 2015

How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2017 Ford Explorer

Step-by-step fuel tank removal, tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for 2013, 2014, 2015

Orion
Orion

🔧 Fuel Pump - Replacement

Assumption: On your Explorer, the fuel pump module is serviced by lowering the fuel tank. There is no separate easy-access pump hatch for this repair.

This job requires relieving fuel pressure, supporting the tank, disconnecting the fuel lines and wiring, then lowering the tank to replace the in-tank pump module. Work slowly and keep sparks, flames, and hot tools away from the fuel system.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-6 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • Fuel vapors are flammable. Work outdoors or in a very well-ventilated area.
  • Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting.
  • Do not use incandescent shop lights, smoking materials, or grinding tools near the tank.
  • Use a fuel-safe drain pan and clean up spills immediately.
  • Support the fuel tank with a transmission jack or floor jack before removing straps.
  • Keep the ignition OFF the entire time while lines are open.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 13mm socket
  • 15mm socket
  • Ratchet
  • Long extension
  • Fuel line disconnect tool set (specialty)
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Trim tool
  • Transmission jack or floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
  • Jack stands
  • Torque wrench
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty)
  • Drain pan
  • Shop towels

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Fuel pump module - Qty: 1
  • Fuel pump module seal/O-ring - Qty: 1
  • Fuel tank strap bolts - Qty: 2
  • Fuel line retaining clips - Qty: 1 set
  • Fuel filter screen - Qty: 1
  • Fuel line O-rings - Qty: 1 set

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
  • Run the fuel level as low as practical to reduce tank weight.
  • Disconnect the negative battery cable before opening the fuel system.
  • Relieve fuel pressure at the Schrader valve on the fuel rail if equipped, using a shop towel to catch spray.
  • Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jack stands.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve fuel pressure and disconnect power

  • Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
  • If equipped, use a small screwdriver and a shop towel to carefully relieve fuel pressure at the fuel rail.
  • Keep rags away from sparks.

Step 2: Raise and support the vehicle

  • Use a floor jack to raise the rear of the Explorer.
  • Place the vehicle securely on jack stands.
  • Make sure the tank area is easy to reach from underneath.

Step 3: Disconnect filler neck and tank connections

  • Use a flat-blade screwdriver and trim tool to remove any shields or retainers blocking the tank.
  • Loosen the fuel filler neck clamp if needed and disconnect vent hoses.
  • Use the fuel line disconnect tool set to release the quick-connect fuel lines.
  • Disconnect the electrical connector to the fuel pump module.
  • Label each hose before removal.

Step 4: Support and lower the fuel tank

  • Place a transmission jack or floor jack under the fuel tank.
  • Use a 15mm socket to remove the fuel tank strap bolts.
  • Lower the tank slowly and check for any attached hoses, wiring, or clips still connected.
  • Remove the tank from under the vehicle once it is fully clear.
  • Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) when reinstalling the tank strap bolts.

Step 5: Remove the fuel pump module

  • Clean the top of the tank before opening it so dirt does not fall inside.
  • Use the fuel pump lock ring tool to turn the lock ring counterclockwise.
  • Lift out the fuel pump module carefully and let excess fuel drain back into the tank.
  • Remove the old seal/O-ring and discard it.
  • Do not reuse the old seal.

Step 6: Install the new fuel pump module

  • Install the new fuel pump module seal/O-ring in the tank opening.
  • Lower the new fuel pump module into place in the same position as the old one.
  • Use the fuel pump lock ring tool to secure the lock ring fully seated.
  • Make sure the module sits flat and the seal is not pinched.

Step 7: Reinstall the fuel tank

  • Raise the tank back into position using the transmission jack or floor jack.
  • Reconnect the fuel line(s), vent hose(s), and electrical connector.
  • Reinstall the tank straps using a 15mm socket.
  • Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) on the strap bolts.
  • Reinstall any shields or retainers removed earlier.

Step 8: Restore power and prime the system

  • Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
  • Turn the key to ON for 5 seconds, then OFF.
  • Repeat this 3-4 times to prime the fuel system.
  • Check all connections under the vehicle for leaks before starting.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes.
  • Inspect the tank, lines, and top of the module for any fuel leaks.
  • Drive the vehicle and confirm normal throttle response and no fuel pump noise issues.
  • If the check engine light is on, scan for fuel pressure or pump circuit codes.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$550 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$1,050 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.


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