🔧 CR-V - Fuel Pump Module Replacement

Replacing the fuel pump module on your CR-V requires removing the fuel tank because the pump is serviced from the top of the tank, not through an interior access panel. This is a fuel-system repair, so work slowly, keep sparks and flames away, and relieve fuel pressure before opening any fuel lines.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Gasoline is extremely flammable. Work outdoors or in a very well-ventilated area.
• ⚠️ Keep cigarettes, heaters, shop lights with hot bulbs, grinders, and sparks away from the vehicle.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves any time fuel lines are open.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before opening the fuel system.
• ⚠️ Support the fuel tank with a transmission jack or floor jack and wood block before removing tank straps.
• ⚠️ A nearly empty tank is much safer and easier to lower than a full tank.
• ⚠️ Do not use impact tools near open fuel vapors.
• ⚠️ Replace the fuel pump seal. Reusing the old seal can cause fuel odor or leaks.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 3/8-inch drive extension set
• Torque wrench 5-80 ft-lbs
• Fuel line disconnect tool set (specialty)
• Fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Fuel-safe drain pan
• Shop towels
• Permanent marker
• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Transmission jack (specialty)
• Wood block 12-inch
• Wheel chocks
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Class B fire extinguisher

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump tank seal - Qty: 1
• Fuel line retaining clips - Qty: 1 set
• Fuel tank strap bolts - Qty: 2
• Fuel-safe absorbent pads - Qty: 1 pack

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your CR-V on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the front wheels with wheel chocks.
• ⛽ Run the fuel level as low as possible before starting. Less fuel means less weight and less spill risk.
• 🧯 Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby. Class B means it is rated for flammable liquids like gasoline.
• 🔋 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable and move it away from the battery post.
• 📉 Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel line.
• 📌 Assumption: this procedure covers the in-tank fuel pump module on your CR-V FWD.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve Fuel Pressure

• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove the driver-side lower dash fuse box cover.
• Use your fingers or needle-nose pliers to remove the fuel pump fuse from the under-dash fuse box.
• Start the engine and let it run until it stalls.
• Crank the engine for 3-5 seconds more to release remaining pressure.
• Turn the ignition OFF.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable if not already disconnected.
• Some fuel may still spray.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) at the approved rear jacking point to raise the rear of your CR-V.
• Place jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) under the approved rear support points.
• Gently lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
• Shake the vehicle lightly by hand to confirm it is stable.
• Keep the floor jack nearby for supporting the fuel tank.

Step 3: Remove Rear Underbody Shields

• Use a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool to remove the rear underbody shield fasteners.
• Set the shields and fasteners aside in order.
• Use safety glasses because dirt may fall from the underbody.

Step 4: Disconnect Fuel Filler Neck and Vent Hoses

• Use a flat-blade screwdriver or needle-nose pliers to loosen the filler neck hose clamp at the fuel tank.
• Twist the filler hose gently by hand to break it loose, then slide it off the tank neck.
• Use needle-nose pliers to release the vent hose clamps.
• Mark each hose with a permanent marker before removal so it returns to the same location.
• Place a fuel-safe drain pan below the hose area to catch drips.

Step 5: Disconnect Fuel Lines and Electrical Connectors

• Use shop towels around the fuel line connection to catch leftover fuel.
• Use a fuel line disconnect tool set (specialty) to release the quick-connect fuel line. A quick-connect fitting is a spring-lock fuel fitting that releases when its tabs or collar are pressed correctly.
• Unplug the fuel pump electrical connector by pressing the lock tab with your finger.
• Inspect the fuel line retaining clip. Replace it if it is cracked, loose, or damaged.
• Keep open fuel lines pointed upward to reduce dripping.

Step 6: Support the Fuel Tank

• Place a wood block 12-inch on the pad of the transmission jack (specialty).
• Raise the jack until the wood block lightly contacts the bottom of the fuel tank.
• A transmission jack is a wide, stable jack made to support large parts like tanks and transmissions.
• Do not crush the plastic tank. Support it gently.

Step 7: Remove Fuel Tank Straps

• Use a 14mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, and 3/8-inch drive extension set to remove the fuel tank strap bolts.
• Hold each strap with one hand as the bolt comes out.
• Lower the straps away from the tank.
• If the bolts are rusty or stretched, replace them with new fuel tank strap bolts.

Step 8: Lower the Fuel Tank Slightly

• Use the transmission jack (specialty) to lower the tank slowly, only a few inches at first.
• Stop and check for any remaining hoses, wiring, or clips.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to release any harness clips still attached to the tank.
• Continue lowering the tank enough to access the fuel pump module on top.
• Lower slowly and look often.

Step 9: Clean Around the Fuel Pump Module

• Use shop towels to wipe dirt and debris from the top of the fuel tank around the pump module.
• Do not allow dirt to fall into the tank opening.
• Use a permanent marker to mark the pump module position on the tank before removal.

Step 10: Remove the Fuel Pump Lock Ring

• Use a fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) with a 3/8-inch drive ratchet to rotate the lock ring counterclockwise.
• The lock ring is the large metal ring that clamps the fuel pump module to the tank.
• Lift the lock ring off and set it aside.
• Do not use a steel punch and hammer near fuel vapors.

Step 11: Remove the Fuel Pump Module

• Use both gloved hands to lift the fuel pump module straight up from the tank.
• Tilt it carefully to avoid bending the fuel level float arm. The float arm measures fuel level for the gauge.
• Let fuel drain from the module into the tank opening for a few seconds.
• Place the old module into a fuel-safe drain pan.
• Remove and discard the old fuel pump tank seal.

Step 12: Install the New Fuel Pump Seal

• Use shop towels to clean the seal groove on the tank.
• Install the new fuel pump tank seal into the groove by hand.
• Make sure the seal sits flat and is not twisted.
• Do not use grease unless the part instructions specifically allow it.

Step 13: Install the New Fuel Pump Module

• Use both gloved hands to lower the new fuel pump module assembly into the tank.
• Guide the float arm in carefully so it does not bend.
• Align the pump module with the mark you made using the permanent marker.
• Press the top of the module down evenly against the new seal.

Step 14: Install the Fuel Pump Lock Ring

• Install the lock ring by hand first to avoid cross-threading or uneven seating.
• Use the fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to rotate the lock ring clockwise until fully seated against its stops.
• If your replacement module includes a specific lock ring torque or alignment instruction, follow that instruction exactly.
• Confirm the pump module does not rock or lift.

Step 15: Raise the Fuel Tank Back Into Position

• Use the transmission jack (specialty) to raise the tank slowly.
• Stop halfway and reconnect any hoses, clips, and electrical connectors that are easier to reach before the tank is fully seated.
• Use your hands to route wiring away from the tank straps and body edges.

Step 16: Reinstall Fuel Tank Straps

• Position the fuel tank straps by hand.
• Use a 14mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, and new strap bolts if replacing them.
• Tighten the tank strap bolts evenly.
• Torque to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).

Step 17: Reconnect Fuel Lines, Filler Hose, and Vent Hoses

• Push the quick-connect fuel line onto the pump fitting by hand until it clicks.
• Gently pull back on the line by hand to confirm it is locked.
• Use needle-nose pliers or a flat-blade screwdriver to reinstall filler neck and vent hose clamps.
• Use the marks made with the permanent marker to put each hose back in its original location.
• Plug in the fuel pump electrical connector until the lock tab clicks.

Step 18: Reinstall Underbody Shields

• Use a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool to reinstall the rear underbody shields.
• Make sure no shield touches the fuel tank, filler hose, or fuel lines.

Step 19: Reconnect Battery and Prime the Fuel System

• Reinstall the fuel pump fuse by hand or with needle-nose pliers.
• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).
• Turn the ignition ON for 2 seconds, then OFF for 10 seconds.
• Repeat this ON/OFF cycle 3 times to prime the fuel system.
• Priming means the pump fills the fuel lines with pressure before starting.

Step 20: Check for Leaks and Start the Engine

• Before starting, use safety glasses and visually check every fuel connection for wetness or fuel smell.
• If dry, start the engine and let it idle.
• Use a flashlight only if it is fuel-safe; otherwise inspect in good daylight.
• Check again around the fuel line, pump area, filler hose, and vent hoses.
• If you smell fuel or see wetness, shut the engine OFF immediately and fix the leak before driving.

Step 21: Lower the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to raise the rear slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Lower your CR-V slowly to the ground.
• Remove the wheel chocks.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Let the engine idle for 5 minutes and check for fuel smell.
• ✅ Take a short test drive close to home, then recheck for leaks.
• ✅ Confirm the fuel gauge reads normally.
• ✅ If the check engine light comes on, scan for codes before driving farther.
• ✅ Dispose of fuel-soaked towels and old fuel parts according to local hazardous-waste rules.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $850-$1,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $600-$850 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.