How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2016 Ford Expedition (In-Tank Module)
Step-by-step tank drop instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque specs for 2014
How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2016 Ford Expedition (In-Tank Module)
Step-by-step tank drop instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque specs for 2014
🔧 Expedition - Fuel Pump Replacement
The fuel pump on your Expedition is part of an in-tank fuel pump module. Replacing it usually requires lowering the fuel tank, swapping the module and seal, then reinstalling everything without damaging fuel lines or wiring.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours
Assumption: In-tank pump module access is from under the vehicle (tank must be lowered).
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area—fuel vapors ignite easily.
- ⚠️ No smoking, sparks, hot lights, or power tools near open fuel.
- ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel line to prevent spray.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the battery negative terminal to reduce spark risk.
- ⚠️ Support the fuel tank with a transmission jack (a jack made to balance heavy items).
- ⚠️ If the tank is over 1/2 full, siphon/drain fuel first—full tanks are very heavy.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Fire extinguisher Class B
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Transmission jack (specialty)
- Socket set 8mm–15mm
- Ratchet 3/8" drive
- Torque wrench 10–100 ft-lbs
- Flat trim tool
- Fuel line disconnect tool set (specialty)
- Brass punch (specialty)
- Small hammer
- Drain pan
- Shop towels
- Plastic caps/plugs for fuel lines
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump module tank seal O-ring - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump lock ring - Qty: 1
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
- If possible, drive until the tank is near empty to make it lighter.
- Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting lines.
- Disconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Relieve fuel pressure
- Open the hood and remove the fuel pump fuse/relay from the fuse box using a flat trim tool.
- Start the engine and let it run until it stalls, then crank for 3–5 seconds more.
- Turn the key OFF and reinstall the fuse/relay later during reassembly.
Step 2: Disconnect the battery
- Use a 10mm socket to remove the negative battery terminal and move it aside so it can’t spring back.
Step 3: Raise and support the vehicle
- Lift the rear of the vehicle with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Set it securely on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the frame.
Step 4: Support the fuel tank
- Position a transmission jack (specialty) under the fuel tank.
- Use a piece of wood (on the jack saddle) if needed to spread the load.
Step 5: Disconnect the filler neck and vent connections
- Loosen the filler hose clamps using an 8mm socket.
- Carefully twist and pull the filler hose and vent hose off the tank neck.
- Plug the hoses with plastic caps/plugs for fuel lines to reduce fumes.
Step 6: Disconnect electrical connectors at the tank
- Unplug the fuel pump module connector(s) by releasing the tab with a flat trim tool.
- Apply a small amount of dielectric grease during reassembly to help prevent corrosion.
Step 7: Disconnect fuel lines
- Place a drain pan under the fuel line connections.
- Use the fuel line disconnect tool set (specialty) to release the quick-connect fittings.
- Cap the lines with plastic caps/plugs for fuel lines.
- Quick-connects pop off—don’t pry hard.
Step 8: Remove the tank straps
- Remove any shield/bracket blocking strap bolts using a socket set 8mm–15mm and ratchet 3/8" drive.
- While the tank is supported by the transmission jack (specialty), remove the fuel tank strap bolts using a 13mm socket.
- Lower the tank slowly a few inches and check for any remaining hoses/wires before lowering further.
- On reassembly: Torque tank strap bolts to 41 Nm (30 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Clean the area around the fuel pump module
- Use shop towels to wipe dirt off the top of the tank around the pump module.
- Keeping dirt out is critical—grit can damage the new pump and clog the strainer.
Step 10: Remove the lock ring
- Use a brass punch (specialty) and small hammer to tap the lock ring counterclockwise until it releases.
- A brass punch is a softer metal that helps reduce spark risk compared to steel.
Step 11: Remove the fuel pump module
- Lift the module out carefully; angle it as needed to clear the float arm (fuel level sender).
- Let fuel drain from the module into the drain pan.
- Remove the old seal O-ring from the tank opening using a flat trim tool.
Step 12: Install the new seal and module
- Install the new fuel pump module tank seal O-ring in the tank groove.
- Lower the new fuel pump module assembly into the tank, keeping the seal in place.
- Align the module tabs/index marks, then install the new fuel pump lock ring.
- Use the brass punch (specialty) and small hammer to tap the lock ring clockwise until fully seated/locked.
Step 13: Reinstall the fuel tank
- Raise the tank with the transmission jack (specialty) into position.
- Reconnect fuel lines until you hear/feel a click.
- Reconnect electrical connectors.
- Reconnect vent and filler hoses, then tighten clamps using an 8mm socket.
- Install the tank straps and bolts using a 13mm socket.
- Torque tank strap bolts to 41 Nm (30 ft-lbs).
Step 14: Restore power and prime the fuel system
- Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay using a flat trim tool.
- Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
- Turn the key to ON (engine off) for 5 seconds, then OFF for 5 seconds—repeat 3 times to prime the system.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1–2 minutes.
- Check underneath for leaks at the fuel line connections and around the tank.
- Test drive gently, then recheck for leaks and fuel smell.
- If you have a check-engine light after the repair, check connectors and fuel line seating first.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)
You Save: $650-$1,150 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















