How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2015 Ford Escape (In-Tank Module vs HPFP)
Step-by-step procedure, required tools and parts, safety tips, and how to identify the correct pump for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2015 Ford Escape (In-Tank Module vs HPFP)
Step-by-step procedure, required tools and parts, safety tips, and how to identify the correct pump for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
đź”§ Escape - Fuel Pump Replacement
Your Escape has two “fuel pumps”: a low-pressure in-tank fuel pump module (in the fuel tank) and a high-pressure fuel pump (HPFP) (on the engine for the EcoBoost direct-injection system). The replacement steps, parts, and safety precautions are very different, so we need to target the correct one.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate-Advanced | Estimated Time: 1-5 hours (depends on which pump)
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Fuel and fuel vapor are highly flammable—work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area, no smoking/sparks.
- ⚠️ The EcoBoost fuel system can be under very high pressure at the HPFP—incorrect depressurizing can cause injury.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before opening fuel lines or the tank.
- ⚠️ Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Class B fire extinguisher
- 10mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- Trim removal tool set
- Flashlight
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Fuel pump (confirm which one) - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump seal / O-ring (application-specific) - Qty: 1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool completely.
- Disconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Identify which “fuel pump” you mean
- If the pump you’re replacing is on the engine with metal fuel lines going to the fuel rail, that’s the high-pressure fuel pump (HPFP).
- If you’re replacing the pump that lives inside the fuel tank, that’s the in-tank fuel pump module.
- Tell me which one, and I’ll give exact steps.
Step 2: Quick check for an in-cabin access panel (in-tank pump clue)
- Use a trim removal tool set to carefully lift the rear seat cushion edges enough to look for a round/oval metal service cover.
- Use a flashlight to inspect—if there’s a service cover, the in-tank pump may be accessible from inside; if not, the tank usually must be lowered.
Step 3: Reply with these two details (so I can give a complete, correct procedure)
- Which pump are you replacing: in-tank fuel pump module or engine-mounted HPFP?
- Do you see a service access cover under the rear seat area, yes or no?
âś… After Repair
- Do not crank the engine until the correct pump procedure is followed and the system is primed and leak-checked.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $600-$1,800 (parts + labor, depends on pump and tank access)
DIY Cost: $150-$900 (parts only, depends on pump)
You Save: $450-$900 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















