How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2015-2020 Ford F-150 (Trim: XL | Engine: V6 2.7L)
Step-by-step tank removal guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2015-2020 Ford F-150 (Trim: XL | Engine: V6 2.7L)
Step-by-step tank removal guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
๐ง F-150 - Fuel Pump Replacement
Replacing the fuel pump on your F-150 requires lowering the fuel tank, removing the fuel pump module from the top of the tank, and installing a new sealed pump module. This is a more advanced job because gasoline is flammable, the tank can be heavy, and the fuel system must be handled carefully.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours
โ ๏ธ Safety & Precautions
- โ ๏ธ Gasoline vapors are extremely flammable. Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area away from sparks, heaters, cigarettes, and open flames.
- โ ๏ธ Disconnect the negative battery cable before opening the fuel system.
- โ ๏ธ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting fuel lines.
- โ ๏ธ Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby. Class B means it is rated for flammable liquids like gasoline.
- โ ๏ธ Support the fuel tank with a transmission jack or floor jack and a wide wood board. Never let the tank hang by the fuel lines or wiring.
- โ ๏ธ The tank is much easier and safer to lower when nearly empty.
- โ ๏ธ Do not use power tools near an open fuel tank.
๐ง Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive extension set
- Torque wrench rated 10-100 ft-lbs
- Fuel line disconnect tool set (specialty)
- Fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty)
- Transmission jack (specialty)
- Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Flat blade screwdriver
- Plastic trim removal tool
- Brass punch
- Rubber mallet
- Fuel-safe drain pan
- Shop towels
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Class B fire extinguisher
๐ฉ Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump module seal - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump lock ring - Qty: 1
- Fuel line retainer clips - Qty: As needed
- Fresh gasoline - Qty: As needed
๐ Before You Begin
- ๐ Park your F-150 on level ground.
- ๐ Run the fuel level as low as practical before starting.
- ๐ Shift the transmission into Park and set the parking brake.
- ๐ Place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
- ๐ Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- ๐ A fuel line disconnect tool releases the spring-style connector without damaging the fuel line.
- ๐ A fuel pump lock ring tool turns the large retaining ring that holds the pump module in the tank.
๐จ Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Relieve Fuel System Pressure
- Remove the fuel pump relay or fuel pump fuse from the under-hood fuse box using the fuse box diagram on the cover.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable temporarily using the 10mm socket.
- Start the engine and let it run until it stalls.
- Crank the engine for 3-5 seconds once more to release remaining pressure.
- Turn the ignition off.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable again using the 10mm socket.
- Tip: Keep sparks far away.
Step 2: Raise and Support the Truck
- Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the rear of your F-150 at an approved frame lift point.
- Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the frame rails.
- Lower the truck gently onto the jack stands.
- Shake the truck lightly by hand to confirm it is stable before going underneath.
Step 3: Remove Fuel Tank Shield if Equipped
- Use the 13mm socket or 15mm socket with the 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the fuel tank shield bolts if your F-150 has a shield under the tank.
- Lower the shield and set it aside.
Step 4: Support the Fuel Tank
- Position the transmission jack under the center of the fuel tank.
- If using a floor jack, place a wide wood board between the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum and the tank to spread the weight.
- Raise the jack until it just supports the tank.
Step 5: Disconnect the Filler Neck and Vent Hose
- Use the 8mm socket or flat blade screwdriver to loosen the filler neck hose clamp at the fuel tank.
- Slide the filler hose off the tank neck by hand.
- Disconnect the vent hose quick connector by pressing its release tab by hand or with the plastic trim removal tool.
- Use shop towels to catch small fuel drips.
Step 6: Disconnect Fuel Lines and Electrical Connectors
- Lower the tank slightly with the transmission jack just enough to reach the top connections.
- Unplug the fuel pump electrical connector by pressing the lock tab by hand.
- Use the fuel line disconnect tool set to release the fuel line quick connectors from the pump module.
- Cap or wrap the line ends with shop towels to reduce fuel smell and contamination.
Step 7: Remove the Fuel Tank Straps
- Use the 15mm socket, 3/8-inch drive extension set, and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the fuel tank strap bolts.
- Keep one hand on the tank or jack control while removing the last strap bolt.
- Move the straps out of the way.
Step 8: Lower the Fuel Tank
- Slowly lower the fuel tank using the transmission jack.
- Stop often and check that no hoses or wires are still attached.
- Lower the tank enough to access the fuel pump module on top.
Step 9: Clean Around the Fuel Pump Module
- Use shop towels to wipe dirt from the top of the tank around the fuel pump module.
- Do not let dirt fall into the open fuel tank.
- Tip: Cleanliness prevents pump damage.
Step 10: Remove the Fuel Pump Lock Ring
- Install the fuel pump lock ring tool onto the lock ring.
- Turn the lock ring counterclockwise using the 3/8-inch drive ratchet until it releases.
- If needed, use a brass punch and rubber mallet carefully on the lock ring tabs. Brass helps reduce spark risk compared with steel.
- Remove the lock ring from the tank.
Step 11: Remove the Old Fuel Pump Module
- Lift the fuel pump module straight up slowly by hand.
- Tilt the module slightly to clear the fuel level float arm without bending it.
- Let fuel drain from the module into the tank for a few seconds.
- Place the old module into the fuel-safe drain pan.
- Remove and discard the old fuel pump module seal.
Step 12: Install the New Fuel Pump Seal
- Wipe the tank sealing surface with shop towels.
- Install the new fuel pump module seal into the tank opening by hand.
- Make sure the seal sits flat all the way around.
Step 13: Install the New Fuel Pump Module
- Lower the new fuel pump module assembly into the tank by hand.
- Guide the fuel level float arm into the tank carefully.
- Align the module marks with the tank marks.
- Hold the module down evenly so the seal stays seated.
Step 14: Install the New Lock Ring
- Place the new fuel pump lock ring over the module.
- Use the fuel pump lock ring tool and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to turn the lock ring clockwise until fully seated against its stops.
- If using a torque-style lock ring tool, tighten to the tool makerโs specified setting for your adapter.
Step 15: Raise the Tank and Reconnect Lines
- Raise the tank slowly with the transmission jack.
- Reconnect the fuel lines by pushing them onto the pump fittings until they click.
- Gently pull each fuel line by hand to confirm it is locked.
- Plug in the fuel pump electrical connector until the lock tab clicks.
Step 16: Reinstall the Fuel Tank Straps
- Position the fuel tank straps by hand.
- Install the strap bolts using the 15mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet.
- Tighten the fuel tank strap bolts securely with the torque wrench rated 10-100 ft-lbs.
- Torque to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs) unless the replacement strap hardware specifies otherwise.
Step 17: Reconnect the Filler Neck and Vent Hose
- Slide the filler hose fully onto the tank neck by hand.
- Tighten the hose clamp using the 8mm socket or flat blade screwdriver.
- Reconnect the vent hose until it clicks.
- Confirm the filler hose is not kinked or twisted.
Step 18: Reinstall the Fuel Tank Shield if Equipped
- Lift the shield into position by hand.
- Install the bolts using the 13mm socket or 15mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet.
- Tighten the shield bolts snugly with the torque wrench rated 10-100 ft-lbs.
Step 19: Lower the Truck
- Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
- Lower your F-150 slowly with the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum.
- Remove the wheel chocks.
Step 20: Prime the Fuel System
- Reinstall the fuel pump fuse or relay.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using the 10mm socket.
- Turn the ignition to ON without starting for 5 seconds.
- Turn the ignition OFF for 10 seconds.
- Repeat this ON/OFF cycle 3-4 times to fill the fuel lines.
Step 21: Start and Leak Check
- Start the engine and let it idle.
- Use safety glasses and look underneath for leaks at the tank, filler neck, and fuel line connections.
- Do not drive if you smell raw fuel or see any dripping.
- If there is a leak, shut the engine off immediately and recheck the connection after fumes clear.
โ After Repair
- โ Confirm the engine starts normally after sitting for several minutes.
- โ Check that the fuel gauge reads correctly.
- โ Drive gently for 5-10 minutes, then recheck for fuel smell or leaks.
- โ If the check engine light comes on, scan for diagnostic trouble codes before continuing to drive.
- โ Dispose of fuel-contaminated towels safely according to local regulations.
๐ฐ DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $750-$1,300 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)
You Save: $500-$650 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.
๐ฏ Ready to get started?
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