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2013 Honda Accord
2013 - 2017 Honda Accord
V6 3.5L
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Fuel Pump Replacement 2013 Honda Accord

Fuel Pump Replacement 2013 Honda Accord

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10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
3"
3"
Extension
Trim
Trim
Tool
Phillips
Phillips
Screwdriver
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How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2013 Honda Accord

Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017

How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2013 Honda Accord

Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017

Orion
Orion

🔧 Fuel Pump - Replacement

The fuel pump in your Accord is inside the fuel tank and is serviced from the top of the tank, usually through the rear seat access area. This job is mostly about safely relieving fuel pressure, removing the pump access cover, and swapping the pump module without damaging the seal.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • Work in a well-ventilated area away from sparks, cigarettes, heaters, and open flames.
  • Fuel vapors are flammable. Keep a fire extinguisher nearby.
  • Disconnect the negative battery cable before opening the fuel system.
  • Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel lines.
  • Do not reuse a damaged fuel pump seal or locking ring.
  • Fuel may spill. Wear safety glasses and fuel-resistant gloves.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 3/8-inch ratchet
  • 3-inch extension
  • Flat-blade trim tool
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Fuel line disconnect tool
  • Fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty)
  • Torque wrench
  • Drain pan
  • Shop towels
  • Safety glasses
  • Fuel-resistant gloves
  • Jack and jack stands

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Fuel pump module - Qty: 1
  • Fuel pump module seal - Qty: 1
  • Fuel pump lock ring - Qty: 1 if damaged
  • Fuel filter - Qty: 1 if serviced separately

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
  • Let the engine cool completely.
  • Disconnect the negative battery cable with a 10mm socket.
  • Relieve fuel pressure by removing the fuel pump fuse or relay, then crank the engine until it stalls, if it will run.
  • Open the fuel cap to reduce tank pressure.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve fuel system pressure

  • Use the 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
  • Remove the fuel pump fuse or relay, then crank the engine until it stalls.
  • Turn the key off and reinstall the fuse or relay after pressure is relieved.

Step 2: Access the fuel pump cover

  • Fold the rear seat cushion up and locate the access cover in the floor.
  • Use a flat-blade trim tool and Phillips screwdriver to remove the cover fasteners.
  • Lift the access cover and set it aside.

Step 3: Disconnect the fuel pump connector and lines

  • Unplug the electrical connector from the pump module.
  • Use the fuel line disconnect tool to release the fuel line fitting.
  • Wrap the line with a shop towel to catch any fuel drips.

Step 4: Remove the fuel pump module

  • Use the fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) to turn the lock ring counterclockwise.
  • Lift the lock ring off and remove the pump module carefully.
  • Watch the float arm so it does not bend.
  • Tip: Mark the module orientation first.

Step 5: Install the new seal and pump module

  • Remove the old seal and clean the sealing surface with a shop towel.
  • Install the new fuel pump module seal in the groove.
  • Lower the new pump module straight into the tank.
  • Use the fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) to tighten the lock ring.
  • Torque to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Reconnect lines and cover

  • Reconnect the fuel line until it clicks.
  • Plug in the electrical connector.
  • Reinstall the access cover with the Phillips screwdriver.

Step 7: Restore power and prime the system

  • Reconnect the negative battery cable with the 10mm socket.
  • Turn the key to ON for 5 seconds, then OFF.
  • Repeat 2-3 times to prime the fuel system.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the engine and let it idle.
  • Check carefully for fuel leaks around the access cover and lines.
  • If the engine cranks but does not start, cycle the key again to prime the system.
  • Test drive and verify normal acceleration and no warning lights.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$700 (parts only)

You Save: $450-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.


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