How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2013-2019 Ford Escape (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step fuel tank removal guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2013-2019 Ford Escape (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step fuel tank removal guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Escape - Fuel Pump Replacement
Replacing the fuel pump on your Escape means removing the fuel tank, disconnecting the fuel lines and wiring, then replacing the in-tank fuel pump module. The fuel pump is inside the tank and supplies pressurized fuel to the engine, so this job requires careful fuel-safety handling.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🔥 Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area. Gasoline fumes are flammable and dangerous.
- 🚫 Keep all sparks, flames, cigarettes, heaters, and power tools that can spark away from the work area.
- 🧯 Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby. This is the type rated for fuel fires.
- ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel line.
- 🔋 Disconnect the negative battery cable before working on the fuel system.
- ⛽ Run the fuel tank as low as possible before starting. A full tank is heavy and unsafe to lower.
- 🛞 Support your Escape securely with jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- 👀 Wear safety glasses and fuel-resistant gloves. Gasoline can injure eyes and skin.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 3/8-inch ratchet
- 3/8-inch extension set
- Torque wrench rated 10-100 Nm
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Fuel line disconnect tool set (specialty)
- Fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty)
- Transmission jack or low-profile floor jack
- Wood block
- Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Plastic trim tool
- Fuel-safe drain pan
- Shop towels
- Safety glasses
- Fuel-resistant gloves
- Class B fire extinguisher
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump tank seal - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump lock ring - Qty: 1
- Fuel line retaining clips - Qty: As needed
- Fresh gasoline - Qty: As needed
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park your Escape on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the front wheels.
- ⛽ Drive the fuel level down close to empty before starting.
- 🔋 Disconnect the negative battery cable with a 10mm socket.
- 🧰 A fuel line disconnect tool separates spring-lock fuel connectors without breaking them.
- 🔧 A fuel pump lock ring tool turns the large retaining ring that holds the pump in the tank.
- 📱 No infotainment menu or scan-tool command is normally required for fuel pump replacement on your Escape.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Relieve Fuel Pressure
- Use a plastic trim tool to remove the interior fuse panel cover.
- Use the fuse diagram on the cover to locate the fuel pump fuse or relay.
- Use your fingers or a plastic trim tool to remove the fuel pump fuse or relay.
- Start the engine and let it run until it stalls.
- Crank the engine for 3-5 seconds more to release remaining pressure.
- Turn the ignition off.
- Keep your face away from fuel lines.
Step 2: Disconnect the Battery
- Open the hood.
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to loosen the negative battery terminal.
- Move the cable aside so it cannot touch the battery post.
Step 3: Raise and Support the Vehicle
- Place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
- Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the rear of your Escape at the proper rear lift point.
- Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the rear support points.
- Lower the vehicle gently onto the stands.
- Give the vehicle a light push to confirm it is stable.
Step 4: Remove the Rear Underbody Shields if Equipped
- Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket with a 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the shield fasteners.
- Use a plastic trim tool to remove any push clips.
- Set the shields aside in order.
Step 5: Support the Fuel Tank
- Place a wood block on a transmission jack or low-profile floor jack.
- Position it under the center of the fuel tank.
- Raise the jack just enough to support the tank. Do not crush the tank.
Step 6: Disconnect Fuel Filler and Vent Connections
- Use an 8mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver to loosen the fuel filler hose clamp.
- Slide the filler hose off the tank neck by hand.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver to gently release vent hose clips.
- Mark hose positions with shop towels or tape if needed.
- Do not force plastic fittings.
Step 7: Disconnect Fuel Lines and Electrical Connectors
- Place a fuel-safe drain pan under the fuel line area.
- Use shop towels around the fuel connector to catch drips.
- Use the correct size from the fuel line disconnect tool set to release the fuel line connector.
- Press the electrical connector lock tab by hand and unplug the fuel pump wiring connector.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver only if the lock tab is stuck, and pry gently.
Step 8: Remove the Fuel Tank Strap Bolts
- Keep the tank supported with the transmission jack or low-profile floor jack.
- Use a 13mm socket or 15mm socket with a 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the fuel tank strap bolts.
- Lower the straps out of the way.
- During installation, tighten the fuel tank strap bolts to Torque to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Lower the Fuel Tank
- Slowly lower the tank with the transmission jack or low-profile floor jack.
- Pause every few inches and check for hoses, wiring, or lines still attached.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver to release any remaining clips carefully.
- Lower the tank enough to access the top fuel pump module.
Step 10: Clean Around the Fuel Pump Module
- Use shop towels to clean dirt from the top of the tank around the fuel pump.
- Do not let dirt fall into the tank.
- Cleanliness protects the new pump.
Step 11: Remove the Fuel Pump Lock Ring
- Place the fuel pump lock ring tool on the lock ring.
- Use a 3/8-inch ratchet to turn the lock ring counterclockwise.
- Remove the lock ring and set it aside if reusing, though replacement is preferred.
- Lift the fuel pump module slightly by hand.
Step 12: Remove the Old Fuel Pump Module
- Carefully angle the fuel pump module out of the tank by hand.
- Watch the fuel level float arm. This thin arm reads fuel level and can bend easily.
- Remove the old tank seal by hand.
- Use shop towels to catch fuel drips.
Step 13: Install the New Fuel Pump Module
- Install the new fuel pump tank seal into the tank opening by hand.
- Lower the new fuel pump module assembly into the tank carefully.
- Align the pump tabs with the tank marks.
- Install the new fuel pump lock ring.
- Use the fuel pump lock ring tool and 3/8-inch ratchet to turn the ring clockwise until fully seated.
- Do not hammer the ring with metal tools because sparks are dangerous.
Step 14: Raise and Reconnect the Fuel Tank
- Use the transmission jack or low-profile floor jack to raise the tank slowly.
- Reconnect the fuel pump electrical connector by hand until it clicks.
- Reconnect fuel lines by hand until each connector clicks.
- Gently tug each fuel line by hand to confirm it is locked.
- Reconnect vent hoses and filler hose by hand.
- Use an 8mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver to tighten the filler hose clamp snugly.
Step 15: Reinstall the Fuel Tank Straps
- Position the fuel tank straps by hand.
- Start the strap bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 13mm socket or 15mm socket with a torque wrench rated 10-100 Nm.
- Tighten the fuel tank strap bolts to Torque to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).
Step 16: Reinstall Underbody Shields
- Position the shields by hand.
- Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket with a 3/8-inch ratchet to reinstall the fasteners.
- Use a plastic trim tool to press push clips back into place.
- Tighten small shield fasteners snugly. Do not overtighten plastic parts.
Step 17: Reconnect Battery and Prime the Fuel System
- Reinstall the fuel pump fuse or relay by hand.
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to reconnect the negative battery cable.
- Turn the ignition to ON without starting the engine for 5 seconds.
- Turn the ignition OFF for 10 seconds.
- Repeat this ON/OFF cycle 3 times to prime the system.
Step 18: Check for Leaks
- Put on safety glasses and fuel-resistant gloves.
- Use a flashlight only if it is fuel-safe; otherwise inspect in good daylight.
- Look and smell around the fuel tank, fuel lines, and filler hose area.
- If you see or smell fuel, turn the ignition OFF immediately and fix the leak before starting.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Start the engine and let it idle for 2-3 minutes.
- 👂 Listen for smooth idle and normal pump operation.
- ⛽ Add fresh gasoline if the tank is very low.
- 🔍 Recheck underneath for leaks after the engine has run.
- 🚗 Take a short test drive, then inspect for leaks one more time.
- ⚠️ If the engine cranks but will not start, recheck the fuel pump fuse, relay, wiring connector, and fuel line connections.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $850-$1,400 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$550 (parts only)
You Save: $600-$850 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-4 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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