🔧 Fusion - Fuel Pump Replacement

Replacing the fuel pump on your Fusion requires depressurizing the fuel system, accessing the fuel pump module, removing the lock ring, and installing a new pump module with a fresh seal. The fuel pump sits inside the fuel tank and supplies pressurized fuel to the engine.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

Assumption: This procedure is for replacing the in-tank fuel pump module.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Gasoline is extremely flammable. Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area away from flames, heaters, cigarettes, sparks, or hot work lights.
• ⚠️ Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby before opening the fuel system.
• ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel line.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before opening the fuel tank.
• ⚠️ Avoid static electricity. Do not wear clothing that creates static, and touch bare metal before handling fuel lines.
• ⚠️ Fuel vapors can make you dizzy. Stop immediately if you feel lightheaded.
• ⚠️ The fuel tank is heavy. Lower it slowly with a jack and keep it balanced.
• ⚠️ Run the fuel level as low as possible before starting. A nearly empty tank is much safer and easier to handle.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Class B fire extinguisher
• Fuel-safe drain pan 3-gallon minimum
• Shop towels
• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Transmission jack or fuel tank support jack (specialty)
• Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
• Socket extension 6-inch
• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• Flat-blade screwdriver 6-inch
• Fuel line disconnect tool set 3/8-inch and 5/16-inch (specialty)
• Fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty)
• Brass punch 8-inch
• Dead blow hammer 16-ounce
• Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive inch-pound
• Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive foot-pound
• Permanent marker
• Flashlight LED battery-powered

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump tank seal/O-ring - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump lock ring - Qty: 1 if damaged or corroded
• Fuel line retaining clips - Qty: as needed if damaged

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Fusion on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Use wheel chocks at the front wheels to keep the car from rolling.
• Run the fuel level below 1/4 tank if possible.
• Open the fuel filler door and remove the fuel cap to release tank vapor pressure.
• A fuel line disconnect tool releases spring-lock fuel fittings without breaking them.
• A fuel pump lock ring tool turns the large ring that holds the pump module in the tank.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve Fuel System Pressure

• Use your hand to remove the fuel cap.
• Start the engine and let it idle.
• Locate the passenger compartment fuse panel under the left side of the dash.
• Use your fingers or a fuse puller to remove the fuel pump fuse or relay shown on the fuse panel cover.
• Let the engine stall, then crank it for 3-5 seconds to remove remaining pressure.
• Turn the ignition off.
• This reduces fuel spray.

Step 2: Disconnect the Battery

• Open the hood.
• Use a 10mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
• Lift the negative cable off the battery and move it where it cannot touch the terminal.

Step 3: Raise and Support the Vehicle

• Place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
• Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the rear of your Fusion at the rear jacking point.
• Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the rear support points.
• Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands slowly.
• Shake the car lightly to confirm it is stable before going underneath.

Step 4: Remove Rear Underbody Shields if Equipped

• Use an 8mm socket, ratchet 3/8-inch drive, and socket extension 6-inch to remove underbody shield fasteners near the fuel tank.
• Use a flat-blade screwdriver 6-inch to release plastic retainers if fitted.
• Set shields and fasteners aside in order.

Step 5: Support the Fuel Tank

• Position a transmission jack or fuel tank support jack (specialty) under the fuel tank.
• Use a wide wood block on the jack pad if needed to spread the load.
• Raise the jack until it just touches and supports the tank.
• Do not crush the tank.

Step 6: Disconnect Fuel Filler and Vent Connections

• Use a flat-blade screwdriver 6-inch or 8mm socket to loosen screw-style clamps on the filler neck hose if equipped.
• Use slip-joint pliers 10-inch only if needed to squeeze spring clamps on vent hoses.
• Twist the hoses gently by hand and slide them off the tank fittings.
• Mark hose positions with a permanent marker before removal.

Step 7: Disconnect Fuel Lines and Electrical Connectors

• Place a fuel-safe drain pan 3-gallon minimum under the fuel line area.
• Use shop towels around the fittings to catch small fuel drips.
• Use a fuel line disconnect tool set 3/8-inch and 5/16-inch (specialty) to release quick-connect fuel lines.
• Press the electrical connector lock tab by hand and unplug the fuel pump connector.
• Inspect fuel line retaining clips. Replace any broken clips.

Step 8: Remove the Fuel Tank Straps

• Keep the tank supported with the transmission jack or fuel tank support jack (specialty).
• Use a 13mm socket, 15mm socket, ratchet 3/8-inch drive, and socket extension 6-inch to remove the fuel tank strap bolts.
• Lower the straps away from the tank.
• Do not let the tank drop or hang from hoses.

Step 9: Lower the Fuel Tank

• Use the transmission jack or fuel tank support jack (specialty) to lower the tank slowly.
• Pause often and check for any still-connected hose, wire, or line.
• Lower the tank only enough to reach the fuel pump module, or fully remove it if needed.

Step 10: Clean Around the Fuel Pump Module

• Use shop towels to clean dirt from the top of the tank around the pump.
• Use a flashlight LED battery-powered to inspect the area.
• Do not use compressed air unless you are away from fuel vapors and ignition sources.
• Dirt must stay out.

Step 11: Mark Pump Position

• Use a permanent marker to mark the fuel pump module position against the tank.
• This helps align the new module correctly during installation.

Step 12: Remove the Fuel Pump Lock Ring

• Use a fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) with a ratchet 3/8-inch drive to turn the lock ring counterclockwise.
• If the lock ring tool does not fit, use a brass punch 8-inch and dead blow hammer 16-ounce to tap the ring counterclockwise.
• Use only brass or plastic striking tools near fuel vapor because they reduce spark risk.
• Remove the lock ring and set it aside.

Step 13: Remove the Old Fuel Pump Module

• Lift the fuel pump module straight up by hand.
• Tilt it slightly to clear the float arm. The float arm is the small lever that measures fuel level.
• Let fuel drain from the module into the tank before moving it away.
• Remove the old fuel pump tank seal/O-ring by hand.

Step 14: Install the New Seal and Fuel Pump Module

• Wipe the tank sealing surface with shop towels.
• Install the new fuel pump tank seal/O-ring by hand into the tank groove.
• Carefully lower the new fuel pump module assembly into the tank.
• Align the module with the mark you made using the permanent marker.
• Make sure the seal stays flat and is not pinched.

Step 15: Install the Lock Ring

• Install the lock ring by hand first.
• Use the fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to turn the lock ring clockwise until fully seated against the stops.
• If using the punch method, use a brass punch 8-inch and dead blow hammer 16-ounce to tap the ring clockwise until seated.
• Torque lock ring to manufacturer seated-stop position; do not overtighten past the stops.

Step 16: Raise the Fuel Tank

• Use the transmission jack or fuel tank support jack (specialty) to raise the tank slowly.
• Guide hoses, fuel lines, and wiring into their original positions.
• Make sure nothing is trapped between the tank and body.

Step 17: Reinstall Fuel Tank Straps

• Position the fuel tank straps by hand.
• Install the strap bolts with a 13mm socket or 15mm socket, ratchet 3/8-inch drive, and socket extension 6-inch.
• Torque fuel tank strap bolts to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 18: Reconnect Fuel Lines, Wiring, Filler, and Vent Hoses

• Push quick-connect fuel lines onto the pump fittings by hand until they click.
• Gently tug each line by hand to confirm it is locked.
• Reconnect the fuel pump electrical connector by hand until the lock clicks.
• Reconnect filler and vent hoses by hand.
• Use a flat-blade screwdriver 6-inch or 8mm socket to tighten screw clamps.
• Torque screw-style hose clamps to 3-5 Nm (27-44 in-lbs).

Step 19: Reinstall Underbody Shields

• Position the shields by hand.
• Use an 8mm socket, ratchet 3/8-inch drive, and socket extension 6-inch to install the fasteners.
• Torque underbody shield screws to 2-3 Nm (18-27 in-lbs).

Step 20: Lower the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to raise the rear slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
• Lower your Fusion slowly to the ground.

Step 21: Reconnect Battery and Prime the Fuel System

• Use a 10mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Reinstall the fuel pump fuse or relay by hand if it was removed.
• Turn the ignition to ON without starting for 5 seconds, then turn it OFF.
• Repeat this ON/OFF cycle 3-4 times to prime the fuel system.
• Priming means the pump fills the fuel lines with pressure before starting.

Step 22: Start and Leak Check

• Start the engine and let it idle.
• Use a flashlight LED battery-powered to inspect under the vehicle for fuel leaks.
• Do not use a lighter, flame, or hot work light to inspect for leaks.
• If you smell strong fuel or see wet fuel, shut the engine off immediately.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ The engine may crank a little longer on the first start while air leaves the fuel line.
• ✅ Check for leaks with the engine idling and again after a short test drive.
• ✅ Make sure the fuel gauge reads normally.
• ✅ If the check engine light comes on, scan for fuel system or EVAP codes before driving far.
• ✅ Dispose of fuel-soaked towels safely according to local hazardous waste rules.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $750-$1,250 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$550 (parts only)

You Save: $530-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.

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