How to Replace the Fuel Cap (Easy Fuel Capless Insert) on a 2016 Ford Explorer
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, safety tips, and fitment notes for capless vs screw-on
How to Replace the Fuel Cap (Easy Fuel Capless Insert) on a 2016 Ford Explorer
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, safety tips, and fitment notes for capless vs screw-on
đź”§ Explorer - Fuel Cap Replacement
Most Explorers use Ford’s capless “Easy Fuel” system, so there may not be a screw-on gas cap to replace. Below are two paths: (A) if yours has a traditional screw-on cap, and (B) the common capless filler “cap” (the spring-loaded insert behind the fuel door) replacement.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.2-0.6 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- â›˝ Work outside or in a well-ventilated area; fuel vapors are flammable.
- đźš No smoking, sparks, or open flames near the fuel door.
- 🧤 Wear gloves and safety glasses; fuel can irritate skin/eyes.
- 🔑 Key off; don’t do this while the engine is running.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
- Trim removal tool (plastic)
- Torx T20 driver
- Torx T25 driver
- 7mm socket
- 1/4" ratchet
- Small pick tool
- Flashlight
- Clean shop towels
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Fuel cap (screw-on style, if equipped) - Qty: 1
- Capless fuel filler housing/insert (Easy Fuel style, if equipped) - Qty: 1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and turn the ignition off.
- Open the fuel door and use a flashlight to check what you have: a screw-on cap, or a spring-loaded capless opening.
- Wipe dirt around the fuel opening using clean shop towels so debris doesn’t fall inside.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Identify which system you have
- If you see a plastic cap that twists off: follow Path A.
- If you see a metal/plastic spring-loaded flap and no cap: follow Path B (capless Easy Fuel).
Step 2 (Path A): Remove the old screw-on fuel cap
- Turn the cap counterclockwise by hand until it comes off.
- If it’s tethered, use a small pick tool to gently pop the tether loop off the holder if needed. Go slow—plastic can snap.
Step 3 (Path A): Install the new screw-on fuel cap
- Thread the new cap on by hand (clockwise).
- Tighten until it clicks (if it’s a click-style cap). Tight is enough—don’t force it.
Step 4 (Path B): Remove the capless fuel filler housing/insert
- Open the fuel door fully.
- Use a flashlight and look for the small fasteners holding the capless insert/housing at the fuel door pocket.
- Remove the fasteners using a Torx T20 driver or Torx T25 driver (varies by insert design).
- If there’s an additional small screw/bolt, remove it with a 7mm socket and 1/4" ratchet.
- Carefully work the housing out using a trim removal tool (plastic). (A trim tool is a plastic pry tool that helps remove parts without scratching paint.)
- Keep the opening clean; use clean shop towels to catch any dirt.
Step 5 (Path B): Install the new capless fuel filler housing/insert
- Compare the new part to the old one to confirm the shape and mounting points match.
- Slide the new housing/insert into place by hand until it sits flush.
- Reinstall the fasteners using the same Torx driver you removed them with, and the 7mm socket if applicable.
- Torque: If no torque spec is provided with your part/kit, tighten snug and stop as soon as it seats. Overtightening can crack plastic.
Step 6: Quick function check
- Close and open the fuel door to confirm nothing binds.
- For capless systems: gently press the spring flap with a clean shop towel (don’t use a screwdriver) to confirm it moves freely and returns closed.
- Wipe any fingerprints or fuel residue with clean shop towels.
âś… After Repair
- Start your Explorer and confirm there’s no fuel smell around the fuel door area.
- If you had a check-engine light related to EVAP (fuel vapor system), it may take a few drive cycles to clear after the sealing issue is fixed.
- At your next fill-up, verify the nozzle inserts smoothly and the fuel door area stays dry.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $90-$220 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $15-$90 (parts only)
You Save: $75-$130 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.3-0.6 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















