🔧 Front Strut Assembly - Replacement

Assumption: This procedure is for the front strut assemblies on your Explorer. The front suspension uses struts, and the rear uses a different setup.

Replacing the front strut assembly restores ride control, steering feel, and tire contact on rough roads. If the strut is leaking, clunking, or worn out, the safest fix is to replace it as a complete assembly.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Use jack stands; never rely on the floor jack alone.
• Keep hands clear of the spring. A strut spring stores a lot of energy.
• If removing the complete strut with the spring still installed, use a spring compressor (specialty). A coil spring can cause serious injury if released suddenly.
• Support the knuckle so the axle and brake hose are not stretched.
• After the repair, an alignment is required.
• Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench
• 21mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 18mm wrench
• Ratchet
• Penetrating oil
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Paint marker
• Trim tool
• Hammer

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assembly - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount and bearing - Qty: 2
• Front strut upper nuts - Qty: 6
• Front lower strut bolts and nuts - Qty: 2 sets
• Stabilizer link nuts - Qty: 2
• Alignment service - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Loosen the front lug nuts before lifting the vehicle.
• If your new parts are complete strut assemblies, swap the old assembly out as a unit.
• If your new parts are bare struts, use a spring compressor (specialty) to transfer the spring and mount before installation.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise the front of the vehicle

• Use a floor jack to lift the front end at the proper jacking point.
• Place jack stands under the frame and lower the Explorer onto them.
• Remove both front wheels with a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Open access to the strut hardware

• Turn the steering wheel to give yourself room on the side you are working on.
• Spray penetrating oil on the lower strut bolts and sway bar link nut if needed.
• Use a trim tool to move any clips or splash shield retainers out of the way.

Step 3: Disconnect the stabilizer link from the strut

• Use an 18mm wrench and a 15mm socket to remove the sway bar link from the strut bracket.
• Hold the stud while loosening the nut.
• Move the link aside without stressing the boot.

Step 4: Remove the brake hose and ABS wire brackets

• Use a 13mm socket to remove the small bracket bolt(s) from the strut.
• Unclip the ABS wire if it is attached to the strut body.
• Do not let the brake hose hang by itself.

Step 5: Separate the strut from the steering knuckle

• Use an 18mm socket and breaker bar to remove the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts.
• Support the knuckle so it does not pull on the CV axle.
• Mark the bolt orientation with a paint marker before removal.
• Torque on installation: 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs) for the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts.

Step 6: Remove the upper strut mount nuts

• Open the hood and locate the three upper strut mount nuts.
• Use a 13mm socket to remove the upper nuts while holding the strut from below.
• Lower the strut assembly out of the wheel well.
• Torque on installation: 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs) for the upper strut mount nuts.

Step 7: Transfer parts if using a bare strut

• If your replacement is not a complete assembly, use a spring compressor (specialty) to compress the coil spring.
• Remove the top nut with the correct socket for the strut shaft.
• Transfer the spring, mount, and bearing to the new strut in the same order.
• Keep spring compressor hooks opposite each other.

Step 8: Install the new strut assembly

• Position the strut into the tower and start the upper nuts by hand with a 13mm socket.
• Align the lower strut bracket with the steering knuckle.
• Install the lower bolts using an 18mm socket.
• Torque the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs).
• Torque the upper strut mount nuts to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall the brake hose bracket and sway bar link

• Use a 13mm socket to reinstall the brake hose and ABS wire brackets.
• Reconnect the stabilizer link using an 18mm wrench and 15mm socket.
• Torque the stabilizer link nut to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall the wheels and lower the vehicle

• Install the front wheels and snug the lug nuts with a 21mm socket.
• Lower the Explorer to the ground with the floor jack.
• Torque the lug nuts to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) in a star pattern.

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✅ After Repair

• Bounce the front of the vehicle and listen for clunks or rubbing.
• Check that the brake hose and ABS wire are clipped in correctly.
• Test drive slowly first and verify straight-line tracking.
• Schedule a front-end alignment as soon as possible.
• If you hear noise over bumps, recheck all fasteners.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $450-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.