How to Replace the Front Struts on a 2016 Ford F-150
Step-by-step repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Replace the Front Struts on a 2016 Ford F-150
Step-by-step repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 Front Strut Assembly - Replacement
Replacing the front strut assembly restores ride control, steering stability, and braking feel. On your F-150, the front strut is part of the suspension and must be handled carefully because it supports spring tension and wheel alignment.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Support the truck securely with jack stands before removing any suspension fasteners.
- Use caution around the coil spring. If you are disassembling the strut, the spring is under heavy tension and can cause serious injury.
- Keep hands clear of the lower control arm while removing the strut bolts.
- An alignment is required after front strut replacement.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable only if you must move wiring or sensors near the work area.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- 21mm socket
- 18mm socket
- 15mm socket
- Ratchet
- Breaker bar
- Torque wrench
- Penetrating oil
- Trim clip tool
- Pry bar
- Spring compressor (specialty)
- Paint marker
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front strut assembly - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front strut mounting nuts - Qty: 6
- Front lower strut bolts - Qty: 2
- Front sway bar link nuts - Qty: 2
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Chock the rear wheels.
- Loosen the front lug nuts before lifting the truck.
- If your replacement strut is a complete assembly, no spring compressor is needed.
- If you are transferring the spring to a new strut body, use a spring compressor only on the bench.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and secure the front end
- Use a floor jack to raise the front of the truck at the approved lift point.
- Place jack stands under the frame and lower the truck onto them.
- Remove the front wheel with a 21mm socket.
Step 2: Free the strut area
- Spray the visible fasteners with penetrating oil.
- If the brake hose or ABS wire clip is attached to the strut, remove the clip with a trim clip tool.
- Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket to remove any bracket fasteners attached to the strut body, if equipped.
Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar link if needed
- If the sway bar link blocks strut removal, hold the stud with a wrench and remove the nut with an 18mm socket or matching wrench.
- Keep the link from spinning.
Step 4: Mark the alignment position
- Use a paint marker to mark the location of the strut to the knuckle.
- This helps keep the suspension close enough to drive to the alignment shop.
Step 5: Remove the lower strut bolts
- Use an 18mm socket and breaker bar to remove the lower strut bolts at the steering knuckle.
- Support the knuckle and hub assembly as the bolts come out.
- Torque during installation: 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs)
Step 6: Remove the upper strut nuts
- Open the hood and locate the upper strut tower nuts.
- Use an 18mm socket to remove the upper mounting nuts.
- Hold the strut from below while removing the last nut so it does not drop.
- Torque during installation: 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs)
Step 7: Remove the strut assembly
- Work the strut assembly out of the wheel well.
- Use a pry bar only if needed for small clearance movement.
- If the assembly will not clear, raise or lower the control arm slightly with the jack.
Step 8: Install the new strut assembly
- Position the new strut into the tower and start the upper nuts by hand.
- Align the lower strut ears with the knuckle and install the bolts.
- Use a torque wrench to tighten the upper nuts to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs).
- Tighten the lower strut bolts to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Reconnect removed brackets and links
- Reinstall the brake hose or ABS wire bracket using the original fasteners and a 15mm socket or 18mm socket.
- If removed, reinstall the sway bar link and tighten the nut to the factory spec for the link style on your truck.
- Do not twist the brake hose.
Step 10: Reassemble and set the truck down
- Reinstall the wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts with a 21mm socket.
- Raise the truck slightly with the floor jack, remove the jack stands, and lower it to the ground.
- Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to 204 Nm (150 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Start the truck and listen for clunks or rattles over small bumps.
- Check that the brake hose and ABS wire move freely and are not stretched.
- Schedule a front-end alignment as soon as possible.
- Recheck lug nut torque after a short test drive.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $300-$700 (parts only)
You Save: $600-$900 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















