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2013 Mazda CX-5
2013 - 2016 Mazda CX-5

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How To: Swap Out the Tie Rods on a 2013-2016 Mazda CX5

How To: Swap Out the Tie Rods on a 2013-2016 Mazda CX5

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace the Front Outer Tie Rod End on a 2013 Mazda CX-5

Step-by-step removal and install instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and alignment notes for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016

How to Replace the Front Outer Tie Rod End on a 2013 Mazda CX-5

Step-by-step removal and install instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and alignment notes for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016

Orion
Orion

🔧 CX-5 - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack (through the inner tie rod) to the steering knuckle. Replacing it fixes looseness/clunking and restores safe steering, but it will change toe (alignment) if not set carefully.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (plus alignment)


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support the CX-5 on jack stands; never rely on a jack.
  • ⚠️ After replacement, get a professional alignment ASAP to prevent tire wear and poor handling.
  • ⚠️ If you use a hammer near the knuckle, protect threads and wear eye protection.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 21mm socket
  • 1/2" drive breaker bar
  • 1/2" drive torque wrench (20–200 Nm range)
  • Combination wrench set (14mm–22mm)
  • Pliers
  • Paint marker
  • Tape measure (metric or inch)
  • Penetrating oil
  • Wire brush
  • Tie rod end puller (specialty)
  • Cotter pin puller (specialty)
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
  • Cotter pin (tie rod end) - Qty: 1
  • Thread locker (medium strength) - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
  • Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.
  • Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end jam nut and the stud/nut at the knuckle; let it soak 5–10 minutes.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Get the wheel off and access the tie rod end

  • Lift the front corner with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper jacking point and set it on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Remove the wheel using a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Mark your “baseline” alignment

  • Use a paint marker to mark the position of the jam nut relative to the outer tie rod end.
  • Measure from a fixed point (for example, the end of the inner tie rod threads to the outer tie rod end housing) using a tape measure, and write it down.
  • This helps you drive to the alignment shop.

Step 3: Loosen the jam nut

  • Hold the inner tie rod with an appropriately sized combination wrench.
  • Turn the jam nut counterclockwise using an appropriately sized combination wrench to break it loose (do not move it far yet).

Step 4: Remove the cotter pin and the tie rod end nut

  • Straighten and remove the cotter pin using pliers or a cotter pin puller (specialty).
  • Remove the tie rod end nut with an appropriately sized socket or combination wrench.

Step 5: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

  • Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) and tighten it until the stud pops free from the knuckle.
  • If it’s stubborn, apply more penetrating oil and use the puller again.
  • Puller is safest for the rubber boot.

Step 6: Remove the old tie rod end (count turns)

  • Spin the outer tie rod end off the inner tie rod by hand.
  • Count the exact number of turns it takes to remove it, and write the number down.

Step 7: Install the new tie rod end

  • Thread the new outer tie rod end on by the same number of turns you counted, until it seats close to your paint mark/measurement.
  • Apply a small amount of thread locker (medium strength) to the jam nut threads if your replacement instructions call for it (many do not; follow the part’s guidance).

Step 8: Attach the stud to the knuckle and torque fasteners

  • Insert the tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle.
  • Install the new nut and tighten with a torque wrench to the Mazda specification for your CX-5. Torque to OEM spec.
  • Install a new cotter pin using pliers after aligning the nut’s castellations (never loosen the nut to align; tighten slightly to align).

Step 9: Tighten the jam nut

  • Hold the inner tie rod with a combination wrench.
  • Tighten the jam nut against the outer tie rod end using a torque wrench (or wrench if access is limited) to Mazda specification. Torque to OEM spec.

Step 10: Reinstall the wheel

  • Install the wheel and snug the lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
  • Lower the CX-5 off the stands using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench. Torque to OEM spec.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the engine and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to confirm smooth movement and no binding.
  • Test-drive slowly and listen for clunks; steering should feel stable.
  • Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (same day if you can).
  • Recheck for looseness and re-inspect the cotter pin after the test drive.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only, alignment extra)

You Save: $130-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.


🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


❓Quick details so I can give you the exact Mazda torque specs

  • Which side are you doing: left (driver) or right (passenger)?
  • Are you replacing the outer tie rod end only (the joint at the knuckle), not the inner tie rod?
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