How to Replace the Coolant Thermostat Housing on a 2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee EcoDiesel
Step-by-step thermostat replacement with tools list, parts, torque specs (12 Nm), refill & bleed tips, and leak checks
How to Replace the Coolant Thermostat Housing on a 2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee EcoDiesel
Step-by-step thermostat replacement with tools list, parts, torque specs (12 Nm), refill & bleed tips, and leak checks
🔧 Grand Cherokee - Engine Coolant Thermostat Replacement
On your Grand Cherokee EcoDiesel, the “thermostat” is part of the engine cooling system and is usually replaced as a thermostat-and-housing assembly. You’ll drain some coolant, swap the housing, then refill and bleed air so the engine doesn’t overheat or set a P0128-type code.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Only work on a fully cool engine; hot coolant can burn.
- ⚠️ Support the SUV with jack stands if you lift it; never rely on a jack.
- ⚠️ Keep coolant off belts and electrical connectors; rinse spills with water.
- ⚠️ Diesel cooling systems hate trapped air; bleeding matters to prevent overheating.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not usually required, but disconnect the negative cable if you’ll be working close to the alternator wiring.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive extension set
- Torque wrench (5-30 Nm range)
- Metric socket set (8mm-15mm)
- E10 external Torx socket
- Hose clamp pliers
- Pick tool
- Trim clip removal tool
- Funnel
- Cooling system vacuum fill tool (specialty)
- Scan tool with live data (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Engine coolant thermostat housing assembly - Qty: 1
- Thermostat housing seal / O-ring - Qty: 1
- HOAT/OAT engine coolant (Mopar-spec, pre-mixed 50/50) - Qty: 2-3 gallons
- Hose clamp(s) - Qty: 1-2
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool completely (overnight is best).
- If you have a vacuum fill tool, set it up now; it reduces air pockets. Air pockets can mimic thermostat failure.
- Plan to capture and properly dispose of old coolant.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Confirm you’re replacing the engine coolant thermostat
- Use a scan tool with live data (specialty) to watch coolant temp during warm-up.
- If you’re chasing a P0128-type issue, confirm the engine warms slowly and never reaches normal operating temperature.
- If you meant a different thermostat (some diesels have auxiliary coolant valves/thermostats), tell me what code you have and where the part is located, and I’ll switch procedures.
Step 2: Remove the engine cover and open access
- Remove the engine cover by pulling it up evenly by hand; if clips are used, use a trim clip removal tool.
- Remove the intake ducting as needed using a 8mm socket and trim clip removal tool.
- Set clamps and clips aside in a small tray so they don’t disappear. Bag hardware by step.
Step 3: Drain enough coolant to get below thermostat level
- Place a drain pan (at least 10-quart) under the radiator area.
- If you need more room, lift the front using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Drain coolant from the radiator drain (if equipped) or by carefully loosening the lower radiator hose using hose clamp pliers.
- Drain only until the level is below the thermostat housing to reduce mess.
Step 4: Disconnect hoses and connectors at the thermostat housing
- Locate the thermostat housing at the front/upper engine cooling outlet area.
- Use hose clamp pliers to release the upper hose clamp(s), then twist the hose gently to break it free.
- If an electrical connector is present on/near the housing (sensor), unplug it by hand; use a pick tool only to lift the locking tab (don’t pry on the wires).
Step 5: Remove the thermostat housing
- Place shop towels under the housing to catch remaining coolant.
- Remove the housing fasteners using an E10 external Torx socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet and 3/8" drive extension set.
- Lift the housing off carefully; coolant will spill.
- Remove the old seal/O-ring. Use a pick tool carefully so you don’t gouge the sealing surface.
Step 6: Clean the sealing surface and install the new housing
- Wipe the mating surface clean with a lint-free rag. Do not scrape aggressively.
- Install the new thermostat housing seal / O-ring onto the new housing (or into its groove, depending on design).
- Set the new thermostat housing in place and start bolts by hand.
- Tighten evenly with an E10 external Torx socket.
- Final tighten with a torque wrench (5-30 Nm range): Torque to 12 Nm (106 in-lbs).
Step 7: Reconnect hoses, clamps, and connectors
- Reinstall hoses fully seated, then position clamps in the same spot as before using hose clamp pliers.
- Reconnect any electrical connector until it clicks.
- Reinstall intake ducting using a 8mm socket and any clips with a trim clip removal tool.
- Reinstall the engine cover.
Step 8: Refill and bleed the cooling system
- Preferred method: use a cooling system vacuum fill tool (specialty) to pull vacuum, then fill with HOAT/OAT engine coolant (Mopar-spec, pre-mixed 50/50).
- If you don’t have vacuum fill: refill slowly with a funnel, squeeze the upper radiator hose by hand to burp air, and top off as the level drops.
- Start the engine and let it idle; set the HVAC to full heat so coolant flows through the heater core.
- Use a scan tool with live data (specialty) to monitor coolant temperature and verify it climbs steadily to normal operating range.
- Shut down, let it cool fully, then recheck and top off coolant again.
✅ After Repair
- Inspect for leaks around the thermostat housing and hose connections with the engine idling.
- Verify the cabin heater blows hot and temperature gauge stays stable during a 10-15 minute drive.
- Recheck coolant level the next morning (cold) and top off if needed.
- If a check-engine light was on, clear codes with a scan tool with live data (specialty) and confirm it doesn’t return.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $120-$350 (parts only)
You Save: $330-$550 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.











